I posted this in the Maintenence section as well, but figure you guys have never done me wrong in the past.

So here is the thing, truck ran just fine a week ago. I sprang a fuel line leak while running some trails (seal on the return line went bad), got it home, fixed it, and ran it to make sure the leak was gone. Now I go to drive it to the lumber yard today, and it won't start. All the accessories come on, but as soon as I try to crank it, poof, nothing. No starter click or anything. Talked to a buddy who showed me how to pull codes from the dash. The codes I got were: C0706 - transmission range sensor; 9202 - Fuel Sender Open Circuit; 5284 - oil pressure switch. Does anyone know where I should start? By the way, it is a 2000 SCAB. Thanks a bunch!

 

See if it starts in nuetral. If not try jumping the starter solenoid on the firewall.

 

Tried neutral, no go. I will try the starter solenoid on Sunday (work a 24hour shift tomorrow). Anything special when doing that, it is a new process for me.

 

Just turn the key to the run position. Use a large screwdriver across the 2 large terminals on the solenoid.

 

No luck again. Starter didn't even try to move. Could that mean that I have a bad starter? Again, thanks for helping out a newbie.

 

So nothing happened w/key on and crossing the relay ? Did it even click at the relay ? Check the battery first, then the connections of course.

I'm not sure what those numbers mean , well except for the CO706, the range sensor could be out of alignment if it came loose.

How much fuel was dumped ? The range sensor is just below the return on the rail...or close. Might want to clean that up and the connector then reset it by repositioning. There's a procedure, I believe you do this with the gear selector in reverse w/key on. You'll have to look it up, but you adjust until the reverse lights come on , then tighten. Something like that.

 

That is correct, nothing happened with the upper solenoid. Buddy of mine finally got off work who knows a lot more than me (and he only charges a bottle of jack ). We bridged the solenoid at the starter, and it turned, and electrocuted me... His guess, is that based on the amount of rust my truck has, I have a bad ground somewhere, so i am soaking them all now and we will see on Sunday. Thank you guys for everything, this forum has been really great about helping us fools.

 

What! Did that hurt lol ? Yea I haven't heard of that happening before, but I know it's possible. That sucks, guess I shouldn't laugh..mean I expect.

At least you know you have power getting to. I would still test the battery. You need at least 11.4 volts to start. The grounds for start, - there's one right next to the relay, one on the frame behind the passenger side tire and another , engine ground down by the starter itself.

The common problems are right at the starter connects. The little red wire and fatter one. The corrode the worst with time.

EDIT: BTW, - since you say it turned when bridging the solenoid which is the same thing as jumping the relay (this is the starter solenoid relay on the firewall), it should have started IF you have enougfh battery power regardless. Try it again, but use a big screw driver and only hold onto the plastic or rubber handle when performing this procedure. That should prevent you from spotting, soiling or worse!

 

Yeah man, hurt like hell, grounded myself through my body, but it was my own fault. And no, the one on firewall did nothing. The one that finally turned it was the one right on the starter itself. The only reason it got me was I got pissed and used a wrench . Probably not the smartest move I did all day, but it was hot, and wasps were everywhere.

 

Oh yea, a wrench would get yuh...bet that stung lol. I think we all have bitten by that dog in different ways, -at least once.

So when you tried the relay on the firewall was the key on ? If so, you need to check it for power with a multi meter to B+. If there's power to the solenoid relay on the firewall and it won't turn over once bridging THOSE two posts then it's either THAT relay or a connection. What to keep in mind while testing; If you hear a click and nothing else, check the connection. If you hear nothing at all and you have battery power, then it's the relay.

There's more practical ways in doing this with a meter if your familiar. I explained a way in determining if your are unable to take full advantage of a meter, since many are not...because they don't do it enough basically.