Kevindisley

I have a 2001 F150 4X4 4.6 with California emmisions. I recently did a lot of upgrading to my truck. I first put in a K&N cold air intake a few months ago with no problems, but all in week I did some major modifications. First I put on stainless steel JBA tuned headers, than I put on a Heartthrob dual exhaust, changed my coils to Accel super coils. Autolite double platinum plugs, and new fuel injectors. Since I did all this work to my truck it started throwing 2 codes ( P1132 and P1152). When I first start the truck it has lots of power and sounds very aggressive but after a few hours of driving around the check engine light comes on and it starts to have a loss of power and the more I drive the more the loss of power is present. It starts to even sputter a little sometimes there is a slight backfiring hen the RPM's come down. I erase the codes do some tinkering around and the next day its the same thing. I was getting a funky smell like my catalytic converter was plugged. So I punched the two back cats and put non-foulers on the O2 sensors. The smell left even seemed liked I had a little more power but after a few hours of driving it was the same episode all over again. Through the same codes and loss of power. Here is what I found about the codes, and again it has awesome power until it warms up.
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Trouble Code: P1132


Lack of HO2S-11 Switching, HO2S Signal High Input

Possible Causes:

Check air cleaner element and air cleaner housing for blockage
EVAP vapor recovery system has failed (canister full of fuel)
Fuel pressure too high, contaminated or leaking fuel injectors
HO2S is fuel contaminated, or coated with silicone or moisture
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Trouble Code: P1152


Lack of HO2S-21 Switching, HO2S Signal High Input

Possible Causes:

Check air cleaner element and air cleaner housing for blockage
EVAP vapor recovery system has failed (canister full of fuel)
Fuel pressure too high, contaminated or leaking fuel injectors
HO2S is fuel contaminated, or coated with silicone or moisture
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pointaus

1999 Ford Expedition EB 4WD 5.4L 200K, Started to sputter and shutters under load / heavy acceleration, low or high RPM's with more than 1/3 + peddle. Normal driving up to 1/3 peddle and under 2K RPM's NO sputter or shutter. Initially told misfire Bank 1 & 2, suggestion was to replace COP's and injector O-rings. Replaced all spark plugs, COP's and injectors. Starts instantaneously now and more responsive but still shutters and sputters under load. Suggestion to replace TPS, MAF and fuel filter since it had 200K on it and nothing had been replaced since new so I replaced all. Still shutters and sputters but now notice it runs a little rough at idle and the exhaust smells weird not like gas just something I've never smelled before. Suggestion of possible vac leak, have sprayed carb cleaner, brake cleaner and starter fluid all around can't fine anything, Starts immediately cold or hot, cold IAC has it at 980 RPM's then settles to 600 RPM's. Never surges. Drove around for about an hour trying to get it to throw a code, it threw P1132 and P1152, Sensor 1 for bank 1 & 2 , LACK OF H2OS11-NOT SWITCHING - RICH assuming this means LEAN (no O2) condition from what i've read. Suggestion was test the fuel pressure and regulator. 30 psi at the rail, 35 psi with new fuel filter engine running. Removed vac hose from regulator jumps to 40 psi. Engine off, ignition off, psi drops to 0 in a couple of minutes. Never holds pressure once off. Q: shouldn't line hold pressure within 5psi when pump is off? Also, Is the fuel pump working just not enough when fuel demand increases.

pointaus

I have a similar situation. Did you ever find a solution? Suggestions made to me are; clogged cats, bad cop, bad fuel pump, bad injectors? Still scratching my head.

akdoggie

I read Accel coils, and Autolite spark plugs. Not my choices for a Ford modular. Motorcraft, and Motorcraft. These engines are very brand part specific. Ask the forum. You will see what I am saying.

Now on the 1132/1152. Check the cats for glow, if they are not glowing, then check the fuel pressure and see if it is dropping quickly, engine off. (There is a test procedure for this. It is listed in the search bar.) This can put extra fuel into the cylinder(s) giving the cats too much raw fuel. Check the PCV also. This little bugger really messes with these engines. You might have a vacuum leak at that part, causing rich run and dropping extra fuel into the cats.

Clean the MAF also. K&N can leave a residue on the sensor, if they even just a bit overoiled.

Just some places to look. Not being there makes it hard to really diagnose.

pointaus

Thanks for the reply. From a suggestion I changed MAF and TPS back to original MOD MAF with K/N filter and Motorcraft TPS. Hopefully this will do away with UPSTREAM HO2S(S) NOT SWITCHING. DTCs P1132 AND P1152: FUEL SYSTEM NOT SWITCHING AT FUEL TRIM (RICH OR LEAN) and CAT's overheating.

No fuel in the on rail fuel pressure regulator vac line. Regulator test 40 psi vac off, 35 psi on, functioning within specs. Fuel pressure @rail drops slowly to zero over 3 to 5 five minutes. I was hoping it was the fuel pump so I could finally resolve this but it doesn't seem like it could be unless its dropping pressure on acceleration?

Original Shudder, Stutter, Pop-pop on acceleration 2k all the way through along with sporadic rough idle (very minute) has never changed since I began this repair. No prior smell from exhaust.

Before I replaced the COP and Injectors I would need to drive it hard for 300-400 miles before a code would show up.
I'll live data and monitor the LT FTRM1 & 2 to see if both upstream HEGO's still show -20% >RICH meaning switching TOO LEAN or a +20% > LEAN meaning switching TOO RICH to rule out bad HEGO's.

pointaus

Is there a way to monitor each cylinder/ injector/ COP on a 99 5.4l.

Jbrew

Well, the cylinders yes, Injectors no. Injector function can be checked through probe KOEO and KOER. Cylinder misfire monitor can be seen through live data during the drive cycle along with other system data with your phone via blue tooth adapter using the torque and torque pro app. Some PCM's are Mode 6 friendly for cylinder history. I believe the BT calls for a elm adapter, but you can look it up using the info I've given. Quite a few on this site use it. I swap injectors every 100K miles with a fresh set/sonic cleaned rebuilds, there's a difference in performance every time.

akdoggie

No fuel in the on rail fuel pressure regulator vac line. Regulator test 40 psi vac off, 35 psi on, functioning within specs. Fuel pressure @rail drops slowly to zero over 3 to 5 five minutes. I was hoping it was the fuel pump so I could finally resolve this but it doesn't seem like it could be unless its dropping pressure on acceleration?

If You lose all the pressure in such a short time, you have something that is not functioning correctly. Either a bad pressure regulator or 2 or more injectors dumping fuel into the cylinders. I'm betting on the injectors first, since you had 40/35 on the regulator. You could also have a bad fuel pump check valve, releasing the pressure, but that would make starting hard or impossible, so I go back to the injectors as the first place to check. Too much fuel, weak or bad cats, all add up to your description.

pointaus

Tested {coil monitor and unplug} all cop's all new and all operational.
Unpluged all new injectors one at a time, engine stumbled on each one. I don't think this would rule out possible hydrolock?

Tested the cat's last night. Drove around for 45 min. then drove hard for about 20 more, shuttered same. Still smells a bit but not super strong. Infrared temp on cat and upstream 480-520F "549-max", downstream 380-420F, no glowing. New symptom, used Innova 3040c running live data, upstream HEGO's 1 and 2 were showing 0% and 0V both. Down stream, both were operating as normal and within specs. No CEL, no codes? Still shuttering and hesitating on acceleration. Still starts right up everytime.

I have a ELM327 v2.1 with Torque pro which can monitor cylinder misfires but they are not highlighted / no data, so I assumed the PCM does not support it? Is there something I'm missing?

Would testing the fuel pressure at the rail while driving prove bad pump if pressure goes below 30 psi under heavy acceleration{spec 35psi normal, 40psi max "vac off"} OR could it still be the regulator?

pointaus

I just received comments from projectsho89 about the fuel system;

pointaus:"30 psi at the rail, 35 psi with new fuel filter engine running. Removed vac hose from regulator jumps to 40 psi."
projectsho89:The FPR is working normally.

pointaus:"Never holds pressure once off. Q: shouldn't line hold pressure within 5psi when pump is off?"
projectsho89:Leaking check valve in the fuel pump assembly. The only thing this causes is extended cranking time.

Am I chasing a ghost or in the right direction. I started out trying to fix the hesitation and shutter when accelerating but I feel like I created new problems?

I picked up 2 new Bosch upstream O2's to install. I am not sure if the O2 sensors going bad would cause the shutter and hesitation problem?

Any suggestions?