Brakes.. How hard is it?
I have known for a while now I need atlease new pads in the front. I just about have to put it to the floor just to stop with a loaded trailer. How hard is it to install new brake pads and rotors? does anyone have a write up or pictures? just looking to save some money from going to a shop. Also any recomended brand or style? thanks in advance!
Last edited by Sledhead24-7; Oct 13, 2013 at 07:47 PM.
Depends a little on if its 4wd or 2wd. I did my front rotors and pads on my truck and it was super easy. Plus I had never done it before. Can't remember what brand was used though.
If you have any mechanical ability at all, you should be able to change both sides in two hours.
I know its easy because I could do it... Did it last night.
I changed the front calipers, pads and brake hoses on mine and the whole process took me an hour. Make the $20 investment in a Haynes manual . IMO they are better than the Chiltons. But both have pictures and Step-by step instructions.
Once you have the wheel off, there's just 2 bolts holding the calipers on. You will also need a big (8") c-clamp to push the caliper pistons back. Push them back (after removing the brake fluid filler cap), remove the two bolts (13mm socket), slide the calipers back, remove the pads- they slide out inward and outward. pry off the anti-squeal clips if new ones came with the pads-otherwise just reuse the old ones. Put a dab of the grease that comes with the new pads on the OUT side of the pads...NOT the side that contacts the rotor. Slide the pads in and put the caliper back on. Torque the bolts to 21 to 26 ft lbs, if you have a torque wrench. Or snug them up good and go another 1/6th of a turn.
If your rotors haven't been done before, you may need new rotors, because the manufacturer doesn't make them as thick as they used to. I would also take a good look at the brake hoses- they are about $40 for the front set.
I know its easy because I could do it... Did it last night.
I changed the front calipers, pads and brake hoses on mine and the whole process took me an hour. Make the $20 investment in a Haynes manual . IMO they are better than the Chiltons. But both have pictures and Step-by step instructions.
Once you have the wheel off, there's just 2 bolts holding the calipers on. You will also need a big (8") c-clamp to push the caliper pistons back. Push them back (after removing the brake fluid filler cap), remove the two bolts (13mm socket), slide the calipers back, remove the pads- they slide out inward and outward. pry off the anti-squeal clips if new ones came with the pads-otherwise just reuse the old ones. Put a dab of the grease that comes with the new pads on the OUT side of the pads...NOT the side that contacts the rotor. Slide the pads in and put the caliper back on. Torque the bolts to 21 to 26 ft lbs, if you have a torque wrench. Or snug them up good and go another 1/6th of a turn.
If your rotors haven't been done before, you may need new rotors, because the manufacturer doesn't make them as thick as they used to. I would also take a good look at the brake hoses- they are about $40 for the front set.
Last edited by cardinexile; Oct 13, 2013 at 09:22 PM.
If your rotors haven't been turned before, take them to a parts store to see if they can be turned. You can usually turn them once before they become to thin to turn. If they are out of spec and too thin the parts store will not turn them. If too thin, buy new rotors. When replacing brake pads/shoes I always have them turned or replaced. Some will say it isn't necessary, but your brake pads/shoes will last longer and you shouldn't have any brake noise. As mentioned above you will have to squeeze the calipers back to get the new pads in. Before doing this, remove the cap from the master cylinder reservoir, I always put paper towels around the reservoir to absorb any fluid that will overflow. When bleeding make sure the reservoir is kept full. Also I like to bleed the brakes until I start getting clean brake fluid coming out. As said earlier, invest in a Haynes manual, I have one for each of my vehicles. It may not be the difinitive source on how to, but it is a good starting point.
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You can re-use the clips.
While you have the calipers off, you can pull out the two sliders out that the calipers bolt to. Be careful not to damage the rubber boots, pull them off and put a thin coat of high temp grease on the sliders and reinstall them and the boots. This will help keep the calipers moving freely. It should go without saying, but spray everything down liberally with brake cleaner when you're finished with the brake job so you don't have any grease or oil on the rotors or pads. Any of these will cause your brakes to not work correctly.
While you have the calipers off, you can pull out the two sliders out that the calipers bolt to. Be careful not to damage the rubber boots, pull them off and put a thin coat of high temp grease on the sliders and reinstall them and the boots. This will help keep the calipers moving freely. It should go without saying, but spray everything down liberally with brake cleaner when you're finished with the brake job so you don't have any grease or oil on the rotors or pads. Any of these will cause your brakes to not work correctly.






