I am new to this entire driveway mechanics thing and I have a friend coming over this weekend to help me replace the rotors on my truck. I order the parts and they got here today. I figured this is a good place to learn.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/brake-disc-...911y2002g203j1

My question is when the arrived they had bolts sticking out of them already. Just want to see if those come out or the part is wrong?



Thanks,

 

That's correct. Those are your new wheel studs. I'm assuming you have a 4x4 and those are the front rotors?

 

No, don't try to take them out, they are your wheel studs, you should be good to go.

 

Yes its 4x4. All the videos I have see on replacing the rotors dont have the wheel studs there already. Just want to make sure its the right part before we get into it.

 

I'd say you're good to go. Even if you get it apart and it happens to not be the right part it's not s huge deal. All you have to do is remove the tire/wheel and remove the caliper and the rotor comes off. So if it's not right it would take literally 5 mins to put it back together

 

Dang it! Wrong parts. I ordered the ones for 2 wheel drive instead of 4. Opps.

 

Lol happens and it's an easy job! You'll get it

 

Yep that's a 2wd rotor. They come with studs. 4X4 will be a flat faced rotor. Ooooops!
When you get the right ones be sure to thoroughly clean all surfaces free of rust. Some anti-seize should also be put on hub area. Also it's important (and often overlooked) to torque the wheels with a torquewrench when reinstalling. Uneven torque on wheels is a common cause of warped rotors.

 

New rotors often come with a light coating of a wax-like substance designed to prevent rust. This will need to be cleaned off thoroughly. Brake parts cleaner works just fine. Don't use carb cleaner or any other solvent since it may attack the rubber brake hoses and seals. Brake parts cleaner is designed specifically to be kind to these critical rubber parts.

Rust is a non-issue. The brake pads will quickly scrub any rust off the friction surface (and it'll re-rust as soon as it rains any way.)

Just to clarify, it's nice to put a THIN coat of anti-seize on the face of the the hub so that the hub and rotor don't rust and fuse themselves together. This will make removing it later MUCH easier.

Despite plenty of anecdotal evidence, tightening the wheel nuts will not warp a rotor. It's an old myth. (And in truth, warped rotors are really, REALLY rare.)

The reason you torque your wheel nuts is the same as for any other fastener -- to stretch the bolt a specific amount to load the threads (and the rest of the joint,) enough to prevent the fastener from loosening. If you get it too loose, the nut can back off. If you get it too tight, the wheel stud (or bolt,) can stretch too much and permanently distort. This also weakens the wheel stud, which will eventually snap -- take a loot at how many cars are driving around missing a wheel stud -- there's a reason for that.)

Lastly, if you haven't gotten the correct rotors yet, Save yourself some money and buy PLAIN rotors. You don't need slotted rotors and you CERTAINLY don't want drilled rotors. They're expensive, and the holes only will make the rotor prematurely crack.

Of course if you want them to look cool, that's another manner, but I'd rather buy a case of beer or two with the money I'd save.