In addition to all this, a few weeks ago when I was driving it around with the a/c on, I attempted to start the truck but it wouldn't turn at all. Turn the a/c off, and fired right up. Not sure what could have caused that, if it's at all related. Thanks again for all the help everyone.

 

Not with a Screw.....the pump is under the rear seat. Dropping the tank still isn't a bad job, do yourself a favor and get new tank straps though

 

A bad check valve in the fuel sender can cause a no start at hot times. There are a couple threads on this. One just a couple months ago. It turned out to be a bad pump assy. The OP replaced it and no more problems.

There should be an OBDII code setting also. Have you checked the OBDII port for codes? This is the first thing to check. Then you can see if you are on the right track. Also check the fuel rail valve for fuel. Be careful, because it is suppose to be up to almost 50 lbs of pressure, so have a rag handy to keep the spray down, in case. I'm almost betting it's the fuel in-tank assy, and the valve is defective. It will not start with a bad/defective valve most of the time.

 

If it's kinda dragging *** while turning the key over, and really really slow, it's the starter. If it's spinning fast like normal, just not catching, it's something else.

Mine did that whole churn churn churn CRANK thing for months before it finally just clicked at me. Replaced the battery and it STILL did it. Replaced the starter and it fires up first time every time now.

 

Just so you know and a little less confusing, - crank and turn over are the same thing.

You referring to a crank no start situation. It may crank slow or fast when attempting start or fire.

 

Thanks for the info. I don't always know what I'm talking about since I'm really a novice at this.

 

As for the fix, I skipped the starter and replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter since I already had the bed off to replace it. The pump wasn't that hard, and wasn't under the passenger seat. It sat near the cab, but was accessible without messing with the tank straps. I've added a picture of the pump and assembly site.

 

And of course I completely made things worse as I mis-wrote. I have a SCAB, not a SCREW.

 

Under the passenger seat. Where did you hear that ?

Yea, since you have the bed off and it's a SCAB, pump is easy. With the bed on, it's much quicker dealing with the straps. As rusty as mine is underneath (Michigan winters), the straps go easy and quick. Nothing breaks unless the straps are bad. Ford has good hardware, treated bolts that are either a grade of stainless or galvanized. I removed my bed two years ago, all beds bolts had to be drilled out from the top. Once the bed was off, the other half of the bed bolts had to be cut out lol, PITA. Found a good deal on fleabay and purchased 8 new bed bolts, $35 (couldn't pass it up). I only needed 6, but this set came with everything, fastener clips included and treated bolts. Not the cheap Zinc coated #8's that you would find at the farm store lol. Ford specs # 14 series for the bed. They were a pita to drill out and I was using solid cobalt bits (silver/dreming bit).