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Air Conditioning Problem

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Old 04-04-2016, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by white89gt

Not sure I understand the point of this? You are supposed to shim it and tighten it before checking the gap.
I'm hoping I can do this with it on the truck. I do not want to open the system to contaminates nor do I want to pay for a full overhaul.

The video above is pretty helpful when it talks about the shims and tightening.
Old 04-04-2016, 08:45 PM
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Yeah, that was way better than me explaining it.

You may need to get creative with pulling pulley. That's why I hate having the compressor on the bottom. I have no idea how much wiggle room it would have if you removed the mounting bolts, but perhaps you could leave one bolt in as a pivot, and just angle it a bit to get access?
Old 04-04-2016, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by white89gt
Yeah, that was way better than me explaining it.

You may need to get creative with pulling pulley. That's why I hate having the compressor on the bottom. I have no idea how much wiggle room it would have if you removed the mounting bolts, but perhaps you could leave one bolt in as a pivot, and just angle it a bit to get access?
I'll give it a go and see what I can make happen. If it has to come off it will go to the right shop. It gets 100 plus on a regular basis here in the summer. Good ac is a must.
Old 04-04-2016, 09:02 PM
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I hear you. Plus you've got the humidity. Luckily Utah is just a dry heat.... well, that's my personal preference anyway, LOL.
Old 04-04-2016, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by white89gt
Not sure I understand the point of this? You are supposed to shim it and tighten it before checking the gap.
Yeah that's correct. The gap should be between 0.014-0.033 in. The point of doing is to engage the clutch hub to prevent it from spinning so you can easily tighten the bolt to 98-123 lb/in or 11-14Nm.

Last edited by w0lvez; 04-04-2016 at 10:18 PM.
Old 04-04-2016, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jprevat
I'll give it a go and see what I can make happen. If it has to come off it will go to the right shop. It gets 100 plus on a regular basis here in the summer. Good ac is a must.
Small amount of refrigerant is leaking on hose and o-rings called permeation. The proper way of adding refrigerant is by weight. The system needs to be evacuated and vacuum. Make sure the shop has a refrigerant analyzer or refrigerant identifier.

If the system is opened you need to replace the accumulator, orifice tube and add Pag oil 46. It's better to flush the oil out if the system is opened so you can add the right amount of oil.

For best performance replace the fixed orifice tube with Smart VOV (variable orifice valve).

Last edited by w0lvez; 04-04-2016 at 10:43 PM.
Old 04-04-2016, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by w0lvez

Small amount of refrigerant is leaking on hose and o-rings called permeation. The proper way of adding refrigerant is by weight. The system needs to be evacuated and vacuum. Make sure the shop has a refrigerant analyzer or refrigerant identifier.

If the system is opened you need to replace the accumulator, orifice tube and add Pag oil 46. It's better to flush the oil out if the system is opened so you can add the right amount of oil.
Will do sir. I'll update when I get it back together
Old 04-04-2016, 11:40 PM
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Is the source of the oil/grease for sure from the compressor?
Old 04-04-2016, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by white89gt
Is the source of the oil/grease for sure from the compressor?
I honestly don't know. My engine is by no means clean and when I was trying to find a squealing pulley I did put a couple of shots of pb blaster around to see if I could identify it. I put coolant in it last summer and have not had a loss in pressure yet.
Old 04-05-2016, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by jprevat
I honestly don't know. My engine is by no means clean and when I was trying to find a squealing pulley I did put a couple of shots of pb blaster around to see if I could identify it. I put coolant in it last summer and have not had a loss in pressure yet.
A cheap stethoscope can exactly pinpoint a bad bearing.


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