Air Conditioning Problem
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
The video above is pretty helpful when it talks about the shims and tightening.
#12
Senior Member
Yeah, that was way better than me explaining it.
You may need to get creative with pulling pulley. That's why I hate having the compressor on the bottom. I have no idea how much wiggle room it would have if you removed the mounting bolts, but perhaps you could leave one bolt in as a pivot, and just angle it a bit to get access?
You may need to get creative with pulling pulley. That's why I hate having the compressor on the bottom. I have no idea how much wiggle room it would have if you removed the mounting bolts, but perhaps you could leave one bolt in as a pivot, and just angle it a bit to get access?
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Yeah, that was way better than me explaining it.
You may need to get creative with pulling pulley. That's why I hate having the compressor on the bottom. I have no idea how much wiggle room it would have if you removed the mounting bolts, but perhaps you could leave one bolt in as a pivot, and just angle it a bit to get access?
You may need to get creative with pulling pulley. That's why I hate having the compressor on the bottom. I have no idea how much wiggle room it would have if you removed the mounting bolts, but perhaps you could leave one bolt in as a pivot, and just angle it a bit to get access?
#14
Senior Member
I hear you. Plus you've got the humidity. Luckily Utah is just a dry heat.... well, that's my personal preference anyway, LOL.
#15
Senior Member
Yeah that's correct. The gap should be between 0.014-0.033 in. The point of doing is to engage the clutch hub to prevent it from spinning so you can easily tighten the bolt to 98-123 lb/in or 11-14Nm.
Last edited by w0lvez; 04-04-2016 at 10:18 PM.
#16
Senior Member
If the system is opened you need to replace the accumulator, orifice tube and add Pag oil 46. It's better to flush the oil out if the system is opened so you can add the right amount of oil.
For best performance replace the fixed orifice tube with Smart VOV (variable orifice valve).
Last edited by w0lvez; 04-04-2016 at 10:43 PM.
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Small amount of refrigerant is leaking on hose and o-rings called permeation. The proper way of adding refrigerant is by weight. The system needs to be evacuated and vacuum. Make sure the shop has a refrigerant analyzer or refrigerant identifier.
If the system is opened you need to replace the accumulator, orifice tube and add Pag oil 46. It's better to flush the oil out if the system is opened so you can add the right amount of oil.
#18
Senior Member
Is the source of the oil/grease for sure from the compressor?
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
I honestly don't know. My engine is by no means clean and when I was trying to find a squealing pulley I did put a couple of shots of pb blaster around to see if I could identify it. I put coolant in it last summer and have not had a loss in pressure yet.
#20
Senior Member
A cheap stethoscope can exactly pinpoint a bad bearing.