AC Compressor Replacement: Questions
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Joined: Jul 2012
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AC Compressor Replacement: Questions
2001 F150 5.4, 4x4, 185,000 miles
Had to get the gas tank strap recall done and while it was at a local Ford dealership, I had them look at a mechanical problem I was having. I was getting a loud noise coming from the engine at start up. They told me the pulley to the AC compressor was bad and wobbling and that there were some more internal noises that he believed the shaft to the AC compressor may be bad as well. His concerns were that there may possibly be metal into the system causing the noises. He was also concerned that some of the manifold lines had corrosion and was worried they would snap off and if they didn't, he was concerned they would eventually leak thus loosing my AC.
He also mentioned it's a good idea to replace the dryer while doing the compressor. Is this true? I am not too familiar with the AC system.
I have done other work to the truck and I have the tools. I am going to be doing this myself. How difficult of a job is this, are his concerns valid, any other tips? Also should I buy an OEM part or is it ok to go aftermarket and if so what do you suggest? Any links to how-to's would be great as well. Thanks in advance.
Had to get the gas tank strap recall done and while it was at a local Ford dealership, I had them look at a mechanical problem I was having. I was getting a loud noise coming from the engine at start up. They told me the pulley to the AC compressor was bad and wobbling and that there were some more internal noises that he believed the shaft to the AC compressor may be bad as well. His concerns were that there may possibly be metal into the system causing the noises. He was also concerned that some of the manifold lines had corrosion and was worried they would snap off and if they didn't, he was concerned they would eventually leak thus loosing my AC.
He also mentioned it's a good idea to replace the dryer while doing the compressor. Is this true? I am not too familiar with the AC system.
I have done other work to the truck and I have the tools. I am going to be doing this myself. How difficult of a job is this, are his concerns valid, any other tips? Also should I buy an OEM part or is it ok to go aftermarket and if so what do you suggest? Any links to how-to's would be great as well. Thanks in advance.
NOM NOM NOM
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,473
Likes: 22
From: Pa
He's correct about replacing the other things along with the compressor, any contaminates will ruin a new system in a hurry.
BUT......I sure would just take the pulley off of the compressor and replace it (the pulley), or just the bearing if needed, before I would drop big bucks tearing the compressor and everything else out.
The bearings in the pulley are known to go bad (just replaced one in my wife's Envoy) and can be replaced for $20 or so for just the bearing, or around $100 for a new pulley.
No need to evacuate the system or recharge if just doing the pulley or bearing.
IF...it is actually the compressor going bad, a few more turns isn't going to hurt it any more. It's already trashed.
My manifold line rusted out and popped a hole in it this winter. Still need to replace it.
If you replace it now without anything else, you will need to...Pay somebody to evacuate the system. Replace the lines, dryer and orafice tube. Vacuum the system. Recharge the system.
If you wait and see till the line does leak.You don't have to pay somebody to evacuate the system for you.Everything else is the same.
It may last for years.
If you end up replacing the compressor, by all means do the rusty lines also.
BUT......I sure would just take the pulley off of the compressor and replace it (the pulley), or just the bearing if needed, before I would drop big bucks tearing the compressor and everything else out.
The bearings in the pulley are known to go bad (just replaced one in my wife's Envoy) and can be replaced for $20 or so for just the bearing, or around $100 for a new pulley.
No need to evacuate the system or recharge if just doing the pulley or bearing.
IF...it is actually the compressor going bad, a few more turns isn't going to hurt it any more. It's already trashed.
My manifold line rusted out and popped a hole in it this winter. Still need to replace it.
If you replace it now without anything else, you will need to...Pay somebody to evacuate the system. Replace the lines, dryer and orafice tube. Vacuum the system. Recharge the system.
If you wait and see till the line does leak.You don't have to pay somebody to evacuate the system for you.Everything else is the same.
It may last for years.
If you end up replacing the compressor, by all means do the rusty lines also.
Last edited by skizriz; Jul 23, 2012 at 06:48 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: The Woodlands TX
if you decide to replace the compressor and line make sure to flush your lines(you can buy the flush kit at any parts house) I would also replace the orfice tube and dryer it is fairly simple to replace the compressor and all the parts, it took me aprox an hour and a half. I would use new parts I used reman parts and was replacing them a year later and upgraded to a new compressor and havent had a single problem.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
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He's correct about replacing the other things along with the compressor, any contaminates will ruin a new system in a hurry.
BUT......I sure would just take the pulley off of the compressor and replace it (the pulley), or just the bearing if needed, before I would drop big bucks tearing the compressor and everything else out.
The bearings in the pulley are known to go bad (just replaced one in my wife's Envoy) and can be replaced for $20 or so for just the bearing, or around $100 for a new pulley.
No need to evacuate the system or recharge if just doing the pulley or bearing.
IF...it is actually the compressor going bad, a few more turns isn't going to hurt it any more. It's already trashed.
My manifold line rusted out and popped a hole in it this winter. Still need to replace it.
If you replace it now without anything else, you will need to...Pay somebody to evacuate the system. Replace the lines, dryer and orafice tube. Vacuum the system. Recharge the system.
If you wait and see till the line does leak.You don't have to pay somebody to evacuate the system for you.Everything else is the same.
It may last for years.
If you end up replacing the compressor, by all means do the rusty lines also.
BUT......I sure would just take the pulley off of the compressor and replace it (the pulley), or just the bearing if needed, before I would drop big bucks tearing the compressor and everything else out.
The bearings in the pulley are known to go bad (just replaced one in my wife's Envoy) and can be replaced for $20 or so for just the bearing, or around $100 for a new pulley.
No need to evacuate the system or recharge if just doing the pulley or bearing.
IF...it is actually the compressor going bad, a few more turns isn't going to hurt it any more. It's already trashed.
My manifold line rusted out and popped a hole in it this winter. Still need to replace it.
If you replace it now without anything else, you will need to...Pay somebody to evacuate the system. Replace the lines, dryer and orafice tube. Vacuum the system. Recharge the system.
If you wait and see till the line does leak.You don't have to pay somebody to evacuate the system for you.Everything else is the same.
It may last for years.
If you end up replacing the compressor, by all means do the rusty lines also.
if you decide to replace the compressor and line make sure to flush your lines(you can buy the flush kit at any parts house) I would also replace the orfice tube and dryer it is fairly simple to replace the compressor and all the parts, it took me aprox an hour and a half. I would use new parts I used reman parts and was replacing them a year later and upgraded to a new compressor and havent had a single problem.
NOM NOM NOM
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,473
Likes: 22
From: Pa
Here's the bearing at Advance Auto.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...015%7CL3*15810
Here's the pulley.In this picture, the bearing is in the center part. It's actually the pulley, and should make more noise when the AC is off. When the AC is on, the pulley locks up and spins along with the shaft going to the compressor. When the AC is off, the pulley spins on the shaft without the shaft turning.(That's if your clutch is working)
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...015%7CL3*15816
Here's the write up I used for my wife's Envoy. Same basic concept.
http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthrea...ressor+bearing
Her compressor was making a terrible racket, and I was also told I needed a new compressor. After following these steps and tearing the clutch off, it was obvious it was the bearing.
May be your problem, may not be. It saved me a $600 bill with a $20 bearing by taking the time to check it out myself.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...015%7CL3*15810
Here's the pulley.In this picture, the bearing is in the center part. It's actually the pulley, and should make more noise when the AC is off. When the AC is on, the pulley locks up and spins along with the shaft going to the compressor. When the AC is off, the pulley spins on the shaft without the shaft turning.(That's if your clutch is working)
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...015%7CL3*15816
Here's the write up I used for my wife's Envoy. Same basic concept.
http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthrea...ressor+bearing
Her compressor was making a terrible racket, and I was also told I needed a new compressor. After following these steps and tearing the clutch off, it was obvious it was the bearing.
May be your problem, may not be. It saved me a $600 bill with a $20 bearing by taking the time to check it out myself.
Last edited by skizriz; Jul 24, 2012 at 06:07 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 723
Likes: 111
Here's the bearing at Advance Auto.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...015%7CL3*15810
Here's the pulley.In this picture, the bearing is in the center part. It's actually the pulley, and should make more noise when the AC is off. When the AC is on, the pulley locks up and spins along with the shaft going to the compressor. When the AC is off, the pulley spins on the shaft without the shaft turning.(That's if your clutch is working)
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...015%7CL3*15816
Here's the write up I used for my wife's Envoy. Same basic concept.
http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthrea...ressor+bearing
Her compressor was making a terrible racket, and I was also told I needed a new compressor. After following these steps and tearing the clutch off, it was obvious it was the bearing.
May be your problem, may not be. It saved me a $600 bill with a $20 bearing by taking the time to check it out myself.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...015%7CL3*15810
Here's the pulley.In this picture, the bearing is in the center part. It's actually the pulley, and should make more noise when the AC is off. When the AC is on, the pulley locks up and spins along with the shaft going to the compressor. When the AC is off, the pulley spins on the shaft without the shaft turning.(That's if your clutch is working)
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...015%7CL3*15816
Here's the write up I used for my wife's Envoy. Same basic concept.
http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthrea...ressor+bearing
Her compressor was making a terrible racket, and I was also told I needed a new compressor. After following these steps and tearing the clutch off, it was obvious it was the bearing.
May be your problem, may not be. It saved me a $600 bill with a $20 bearing by taking the time to check it out myself.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2012
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Forgot to update this back when it happened. It did end up being the bearing. The compressor was fine. (Thanks Ford) I bought the whole assembly with the pulley and it's been working great for the past 3 1/2 years. Better late than never right?