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1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

5.4l engine

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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 09:42 PM
  #11  
69ss's Avatar
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From: MO
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What toneloc is describing is if your looking at the engine there is a tube about 1 inch dia that runs over your drivers side valve cover and goes to the drivers side exhaust manifold.
These engines are prone to breaking the back exhaust manifold studs where the manifold bolts to the cyl head. The tick usually gets quieter as the engine warms up. You can see them through the fenderwell with a light. There's 8 per side. Hope this helps

Last edited by 69ss; Nov 28, 2011 at 09:44 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 12:04 AM
  #12  
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From: Black diamond, WA
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Originally Posted by 69ss
What toneloc is describing is if your looking at the engine there is a tube about 1 inch dia that runs over your drivers side valve cover and goes to the drivers side exhaust manifold.
These engines are prone to breaking the back exhaust manifold studs where the manifold bolts to the cyl head. The tick usually gets quieter as the engine warms up. You can see them through the fenderwell with a light. There's 8 per side. Hope this helps
alright so i found what goes over the valve cover. im gonna try to tightten it up tommorow. but i have a feeling its my manifold...for x mas i was thinking about the gibson shorty headers? are these any good?
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 03:55 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by jakez

alright so i found what goes over the valve cover. im gonna try to tightten it up tommorow. but i have a feeling its my manifold...for x mas i was thinking about the gibson shorty headers? are these any good?
Yah those are sweet just make sure when you buy headers to spend the extra and get them ceramic coated( they stay alot cooler than regular steel ones so in return youll get a couple extra ponies and there gonna last alot longer too) but if your on a budget and dont wanna wait/buy headers then try to find exaclty where the leak is at and if its not too bad you can fix it with 'thermosteel', its basically jb weld for hot things. Jb only lasts to about 600-700 degrees but thermosteel lasts to about 2000-2500 degrees, costs like $10 at any autopart store
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 12:20 PM
  #14  
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Yeah that's I was thinking. And ceramic coated? I'll check into that!
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 06:09 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by jakez
alright so i changed my spark plugs! and the one i couldnt get for the longest time came out only using my fingers! so i go the new one in and torqued them all down so all good!


NOW the tick...toneloc you said the where the EGR connects to the bung? where or what are these? sorry im new to these parts
Follow your manifold down on the drivers side, there is a nipple that comes out of the manifold and connects to a tube that goes up to your EGR. Right there is where it usually rusts out right at that connection. It has like a fibre wrap on it usually. FYI chances are if you try and change that tube it will not unbolt from your EGR so you will be buying that too. I would be real carefull when you look if it is coming from there and its not bad leave it alone or you will be changing the whole manifold
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