2003 Supercrew...developed Shutter
Hey guys...new to the forum but hoping you can help me.
I have a 2003 4x4 SuperCrew w/5.4L. I have developed a very slight shutter on acceleration and it’s driving me nuts. I’m not yet convinced it’s in the driveline as I think it could also possibly be in the fuel and/or ignition systems. I’ve read where some compare the “shutter” feeling to driving on a washboard. The frequency of my shutter is similar though it’s so subtle at times a new driver may not feel it.
The frustration in this is I can produce the shutter on command. The dealer says it feels like the torque converter slipping. My transmission guy doesn’t agree suggesting possible fuel/ignition system.
I feel the shutter only with soft/moderate accelerations. Under hard accelerations, if the shutter is there you cannot feel it. I also feel no shutter at initial acceleration…i.e. in 1st gear. Specifically, during soft/moderate acceleration, just as the tranny shifts into second, i.e. when the RPM’s fall to their lowest point between shifts I feel the shutter momentarily. Shutter goes away as RPM’s & speed increase. Same thing going into third but it is slightly less noticeable and shorter in duration. Going into Overdrive the road vibrations are typically such that you can’t tell. Shift points still seem crisp and have noticed no fluctuations in the tachometer.
The truck has 145,000, meticulously cared, miles on it. Tranny fluid has been changed every 30-40K and currently has about 15K on current fluid. The fluid looks and smells new…no discoloring, metal flakes or debris of any kind. Truck has solid drive shaft. I visually checked U-joints…no excess play detected. Tires just balanced and rotated. All lug nuts tight as I just replaced rotors and pads on front & rear.
Anyone have any suggestions???
Thanks, Toby
I have a 2003 4x4 SuperCrew w/5.4L. I have developed a very slight shutter on acceleration and it’s driving me nuts. I’m not yet convinced it’s in the driveline as I think it could also possibly be in the fuel and/or ignition systems. I’ve read where some compare the “shutter” feeling to driving on a washboard. The frequency of my shutter is similar though it’s so subtle at times a new driver may not feel it.
The frustration in this is I can produce the shutter on command. The dealer says it feels like the torque converter slipping. My transmission guy doesn’t agree suggesting possible fuel/ignition system.
I feel the shutter only with soft/moderate accelerations. Under hard accelerations, if the shutter is there you cannot feel it. I also feel no shutter at initial acceleration…i.e. in 1st gear. Specifically, during soft/moderate acceleration, just as the tranny shifts into second, i.e. when the RPM’s fall to their lowest point between shifts I feel the shutter momentarily. Shutter goes away as RPM’s & speed increase. Same thing going into third but it is slightly less noticeable and shorter in duration. Going into Overdrive the road vibrations are typically such that you can’t tell. Shift points still seem crisp and have noticed no fluctuations in the tachometer.
The truck has 145,000, meticulously cared, miles on it. Tranny fluid has been changed every 30-40K and currently has about 15K on current fluid. The fluid looks and smells new…no discoloring, metal flakes or debris of any kind. Truck has solid drive shaft. I visually checked U-joints…no excess play detected. Tires just balanced and rotated. All lug nuts tight as I just replaced rotors and pads on front & rear.
Anyone have any suggestions???
Thanks, Toby
What part of Missouri are you from? I've got family from there and I'm not too far from Cape Girardeau
Last edited by BuckChucklestik; Oct 4, 2010 at 08:11 PM.
Both are pretty easy to do yourself too. I've done both and I don't consider myself to have any automotive repair skills at all. If you do the fuel filter, do yourself a HUGE favor and go get the fuel filter removal tool from AutoZone. Don't remember the price, but anything over $10 is a rip off. (for the tool that is)
What part of Missouri are you from? I've got family from there and I'm not too far from Cape Girardeau
What part of Missouri are you from? I've got family from there and I'm not too far from Cape Girardeau
Regarding the mass air flow...I've heard you can clean by spraying it with brake cleaner...but never touch it...any truth to this?
Regarding the fuel filter...Where the heck is it. I want to say inside one of the frame rails but I'm not sure. Never messed with the fuel filter before...though I think I had the dealer change it around 75K during some warranted repairs.
Thanks guys. I'm willing to try anything right now. I'm thinking about replacing the plugs and coil packs when I get a free afternoon but those are hard to come by lately.
Toby
Regarding the coil packs...When you say, "on its way out" do you mean they are all still firing but one or more may be at a slightly different output?
About 6 mos ago I lost a coil pack…running on 7 cylinders…and you would have thought the motor was trying to do summersaults under the hood. Nothing subtle about it.
I’ve been pricing coil packs and plugs online. Have found complete sets of Accel’s w/plugs for around $199.
The dealerships wants $97 each for factory coil packs.
Any luck using none factory coil packs…any brands to stay away from?
Last edited by Toby from MO; Oct 5, 2010 at 01:37 PM.
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Yeah when the spring like coil inside the rubber boot start to rust it's just a matter of time before they quit. Accel are no good. I buy mine threw autozone or napa. They are about $40 and are good cop's.
I need to carve out an afternoon as I figure it will take some time getting to those rear plugs.
You have any tips/tricks for getting those suckers out of there.
Toby
Yeah take it to a shop hahaha ....that way if they break one off then it's there puppy
No really I'd start by putting small amounts of penetrating oil in each one. It will help getting them loose. Don't strip the threads. Make sure you torque each one when there going back in. You don't want one to blow out on you.
No really I'd start by putting small amounts of penetrating oil in each one. It will help getting them loose. Don't strip the threads. Make sure you torque each one when there going back in. You don't want one to blow out on you.

