So I can't find a good HOW-TO forum to telling you what to do when changing an engine. So guess what I'm making one!

 

So first off this is my truck, oil system failed somewhere and the engine is seized! One difference from most of your trucks is mine has a 3in body lift. It makes things both easier and harder at the same time

 

Now the motor


The first things that you're gonna want to do is remove your intake, its only a few of hose clamps and two electric connections.




After that you should remove your fuel rails one each there are two i wanna say 8mm bolts holding it to the plenum. After those are taken out it lifts straight up off the injectors. Sometimes the injectors will stay in the fuel rail but they will pull out. they all also have o-rings on the top of than so if you don't see then you might want to get a small screwdriver or hook and get them. If you're not going to use them again don't bother with the o-rings.



Next you need to take the coils out. It is held in by another 8mm (maybe a little smaller)
Now you need to take out the radiator. pull up on the plastic cosmetic piece by your hood release latch. Now remove your fan shroud, if you can not remove it completely just move it as far as you can. Mine has an f350 radiator because it kept overheating after the lift.
the radiator is head with a 2 claps with a 10mm bolt then pulls up, after you disconnect the hoses of course, 5, two big hoses two small houses with tranny fluid and an overflow from the reservoir.
now in order to get the plenum out you need to remove the alternator. Its has two connections by the battery that need to be disconnected. after that there are two bolts on the bottom and a bracket on the top holding it in place. I think that bolts are another 10mm. after this there are 4 bolts on each side of the plenum. They're 10mm, in the front there are three bolts in the aluminum part that also need to be taken out.on the drivers sime the top part of the aluminum will come off. You also need to unhook the connection in the back as well as the hose going to a check valve in the passenger side fiberglass cover on the head. then you need to either disconnect the egr valve or the metal hose connecting to it. After this the entire plenum will lift out of the motor.









Now in the very back of the motor you can see the top two bolts where is connects to the tranny.
More when i get to it!

 

Any updates on this?

 

unbolt, cuss while fighting with the starter for 3 hours, organize, lift, shake, lift, shake, spill trans fluid on clean concrete, set on ground and then reverse.

Don't forget to scratch your fender.

 

Man you really did a lot of unneeded work. The fuel rails and injectors could have stayed in place. Just disconnect the lines to the fuel rails.

The bolts holding the coils in that you removed that didn't have to be removed are 7mm not 8mm.

The clutch fan will need to be removed also

Unbolt the A/C compressor from the block but don't disconnect the freon lines.

Remove starter, drive shaft(mark where it was at), unbolt exhaust from manifolds, remove starter(I got mine off in about 15mins but some have trouble), unbolt torque converter from the fly wheel through the inspection plate, you will need to spin (by the harmonic balancer bolt)the motor to get to all the bolts, remove wiring harness from connection block behind the bracket that just below the start solenoid, unbolt tranny from motor(body lift helps ALOT!)

It's not that hard at all and having the body lift makes it ALOT easier. Just take your time! I pulled mine down to just having to unbolt the motor from the tranny and undoing the motor mounts spending a hour or two after work for 2-3days. Had a friend of mine come over one morning to help. We pulled it out, dropped the new one in, then we realized that we didn't check to see if the Lightning motor we were installing had the same flywheel, pulled it out, swapped flywheels, dropped it back in and reinstalled everything and was driving the truck down my street in 9hrs, stopping twice to run to the parts store and once for lunch.

A 10, 12, & 13mm basically is all you need IIRC.

Good luck!

Wayne

 

Since its been a few months since he posted I am betting his next step was to call a tow truck. Then he picked up all his parts and tools from the snow and mud and brought them to the mechanic.

 

Its not a hard motor to swap. Its hust a bitch. Having another person with . You when you actually pull it out and someone when your trying to line up the motor mounts, exhaust and torque converter at the same time really helps.
This guy never did the first few steps.
1 drain oil
2 drain coolant

 

I prefer the cab/clip removed first.

If your resource spoiled lol.

Well that's not exactly true. In the right predicament - If you have some lengthy steel laying around and the room of course, but without a lift, - build one. A welder, some skill required, but it really isn't that difficult to lift the cab. Cab and clip go up together.

I've sen guys just whip these things together quickly, - cut them apart when done. Throw it back in the scrap pile lol.

But yea, you can never have enough resources right.

 

I just would not want to work outside with my stuff laying around in the snow, mud and on the ground. And a solid floor would be nice when your ready to remove the motor.