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1997 problem

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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 04:30 PM
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Neil O'Seven's Avatar
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Question 1997 problem

Maybe someone can give me some guidance with this problem. Truck won't start. With cables off battery I get 14.4 volts. Put'em on and turn key to start and the fuel pump relay chatters (no starter activity). Check voltage across starter relay and I got 4.5 volts, check across battery and also 4.5 volts. There is a story that goes with this but it's long. Anyway, any troubleshooting ideas? Thanks
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 04:36 PM
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Does jump starting it help or putting it on a battery charger?
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 04:52 PM
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I haven't. If I disconnect the battery and check, it goes back to 14.4. I had a problem where the drivers side window wouldn't go down and in my brilliance I jumpered the wires at the harness to the window motor to reverse the current. Window went down in staggered increments. Afterward truck wouldn't start and I had many electrical problems. Replaced GEM today. Many of the other issues seem to have been fixed but not this.
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 06:19 PM
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I have a "97" F150. Had a brake line break, and replaced it. The problem i'm having is the brakes wont bleed. I bleed them, and everytime i switch from one tire to the next, the peddle goes all the way to the floor. I'm a women who is trying to do this out of the book. My husband is in the service, so I don't see him, nor do I have the money to take it in. Can someone please tell me what i'm doing wrong?
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Neil O'Seven
Maybe someone can give me some guidance with this problem. Truck won't start. With cables off battery I get 14.4 volts. Put'em on and turn key to start and the fuel pump relay chatters (no starter activity). Check voltage across starter relay and I got 4.5 volts, check across battery and also 4.5 volts. There is a story that goes with this but it's long. Anyway, any troubleshooting ideas? Thanks
You may have a dead cell in the battery. Try putting a charger on it or jumping it to see if it starts. Or take the battery somewhere and have it tested. If it starts doing one of those 2 things, or the test comes back the batteries bad, get a new battery.
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 06:29 PM
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Will do. Thanks.
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 08:14 PM
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I am not trying to thread jump. So please understand it is a reply to Staci and her brake issue. Thanks..... Are you bleeding them in the correct order? Passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front then driver front.
I had a line break about a month ago and had kind of the same situation.turned out my double flare did not seat correctly. I redid it an all is good now.
Good luck

Last edited by plumberboy; Dec 3, 2011 at 08:21 PM.
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 10:23 PM
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Honstly didn't know I had to do it in a special order. Thanks for the info. I will give that a try in the morning. I hope it works, I will let you know. Thanks again...
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 10:11 AM
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The theory is to start with the wheel that if furthest away from the master cylinder and work your way to it. The only other thing that I can think of is if one or more of the rubber lines are bad. I have one on my 67 cougar that I am restoring that blows up like a balloon and the pedal comes very close to the floor before it tries to stop.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 05:53 PM
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Thanks for bringing me back to earth. I've had a series of problems (caused by me) and just didn't think that maybe the battery was causing this. Put it on charger for a couple of hours and truck started. Very happy-Thanks.
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