1997 problem
Maybe someone can give me some guidance with this problem. Truck won't start. With cables off battery I get 14.4 volts. Put'em on and turn key to start and the fuel pump relay chatters (no starter activity). Check voltage across starter relay and I got 4.5 volts, check across battery and also 4.5 volts. There is a story that goes with this but it's long. Anyway, any troubleshooting ideas? Thanks
I haven't. If I disconnect the battery and check, it goes back to 14.4. I had a problem where the drivers side window wouldn't go down and in my brilliance I jumpered the wires at the harness to the window motor to reverse the current. Window went down in staggered increments. Afterward truck wouldn't start and I had many electrical problems. Replaced GEM today. Many of the other issues seem to have been fixed but not this.
I have a "97" F150. Had a brake line break, and replaced it. The problem i'm having is the brakes wont bleed. I bleed them, and everytime i switch from one tire to the next, the peddle goes all the way to the floor. I'm a women who is trying to do this out of the book. My husband is in the service, so I don't see him, nor do I have the money to take it in. Can someone please tell me what i'm doing wrong?
Maybe someone can give me some guidance with this problem. Truck won't start. With cables off battery I get 14.4 volts. Put'em on and turn key to start and the fuel pump relay chatters (no starter activity). Check voltage across starter relay and I got 4.5 volts, check across battery and also 4.5 volts. There is a story that goes with this but it's long. Anyway, any troubleshooting ideas? Thanks
I am not trying to thread jump. So please understand it is a reply to Staci and her brake issue. Thanks..... Are you bleeding them in the correct order? Passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front then driver front.
I had a line break about a month ago and had kind of the same situation.turned out my double flare did not seat correctly. I redid it an all is good now.
Good luck
I had a line break about a month ago and had kind of the same situation.turned out my double flare did not seat correctly. I redid it an all is good now.
Good luck
Last edited by plumberboy; Dec 3, 2011 at 08:21 PM.
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The theory is to start with the wheel that if furthest away from the master cylinder and work your way to it. The only other thing that I can think of is if one or more of the rubber lines are bad. I have one on my 67 cougar that I am restoring that blows up like a balloon and the pedal comes very close to the floor before it tries to stop.
Thanks for bringing me back to earth. I've had a series of problems (caused by me) and just didn't think that maybe the battery was causing this. Put it on charger for a couple of hours and truck started. Very happy-Thanks.

