Brandmaner

So are you referring to the 10pack I posted earlier? I was thinking of getting that just in case one or two of them weren't good, and if they all were all good I'd keep the spares.

mbb

Coils is easy part
As long as dont break brittle clip on harness


Plugs 4 and 8 suck
They are under firewall overhang, require extensions and u-joint and going by feel.
Of course holes are actually angled rearward slightly as well.

Brandmaner

Yea I know they suck, I'm assuming the 4.6 to 5.4 is almost the same placement on plugs right? My dad has the 4.6 and he said if I brought the plugs and coils he'd help me replace them all in the shop where we could make sure we have all the little tools we need.

blupupher

iTrader: (2)

I found #7 to be the worst, fuel pressure regulator was right over the COP bolt. First time it took like 10 min just to get that bolt out. 2nd time I did it I took the fuel rail off on the drivers side and had it off in a minute, and made the others easier also.
#4 is a pain, but is not too bad if you have enough extensions and a swivel (I used three 6", one 2" and one swivel). #8 is angled forward better than #4 so is not as bad IMO.

WausauDug

u-joint swivel w/ 1 wrap of electrical tape on helped immensely

jprevat

iTrader: (1)

Does that help tighten up the wobble?

WausauDug

yes, especially usefull installing the new plugs. You can "mold" the u-joint, socket and plug angled back a little right into the plug hole

jprevat

iTrader: (1)

Pretty cool idea. I have been putting off my #8 plug for a while now. No more excuses. lol

WausauDug

I got to do mine twice, had the job all done and realized O'Reillys sold me plugs for a Natural Gas engine?? The #7 COP bolts are the killers if you leave the fuel rail on. I ended up pounding a socket into an offset closed end wrench. it was slow but worked

Brandmaner

Should my seats be the lighter looking color or darker? It's extremely dark because they are damp with cpr conditioner