Hi All,

I have a 2003 F150 Heritage Edition, 5.4L. About two months ago, the truck began intermittently refusing to start. After turning the key, radio, etc. powered up, but engine wouldn't crank. After letting it sit for an hour, it would start right up. It sounded like an intermittent PATS issue or perhaps a now-faulty transponder in my only key. This occurred about once a week until about 7 days ago. Since then, the truck refused to start. No amount of letting it sit or pushing the gear selector has fixed it.

After additional research, I decided to wipe the keys from PATS and start over. I picked up a second key from Lowe's two days ago and tried it in the ignition. It was a bit rough since it had sat for a week. The engine cranked but didn't fully start. I turned the ignition off, then back on, and I was back to the earlier issue: no crank. Neither one of my keys now works. Yesterday, I used FORScan to wipe the keys from PATS and add them back in. After successfully adding the keys back in, the truck wouldn't start. Just for fun, I wiped the keys from PATS a second time and added them back in. Still no luck.

FORScan is showing two registered keys, but is still returning the following: Code: P1260 - Engine disabled by PATS. Could this be a problem with the PATS system itself? Perhaps from PATS to PCM, as FORScan suggests? If so, what are the next steps to troubleshoot?

Here's a dump from FORScan:

===OBDII DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: On Board Diagnostic II

===END OBDII DTC None===

===IC DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Instrument Cluster

===END IC DTC None===

===PCM DTC P1000===
Code: P1000 - On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Systems Readiness Test Not Complete

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Check of all systems is not complete since last memory clear.

--Possible Causes--
- The vehicle is new from the factory and has not yet been through a complete OBD Drive Cycle.
- The battery or PCM has been disconnected.
- An OBD monitor failure had occurred prior to completion of an OBD Drive Cycle.
- The PCM DTCs have been cleared as part of a service process.

Note: The only way P1000 can be cleared (removed) from memory is when all of the OBD monitors have been successfully completed during normal vehicle operation.

P1000 cannot be cleared from the PCM when: 1. The thermostat is stuck open and a DTC is not generated. 2. There is an open VSS circuit and a DTC is not generated. 3. If the vehicle has a Power Take Off (PTO), the circuit is shorted to VPWR or B+, or the PTO is ON during Self-test.

The purpose of the Diagnostic Trouble Code DTC P1000 is to indicate that not all of the On Board Diagnostics OBD monitors have yet been successfully completed. You may also refer to the OBD Drive Cycle defined under the Powertrain Control/Emission Diagnosis Manual-Diagnostic Methods or the Owner's Manual.

Remember: It is not necessary to remove P1000 from the Powertrain Control Module PCM by driving the vehicle.

===END PCM DTC P1000===

===PCM DTC P1260===
Code: P1260 - Engine disabled by PATS

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

THEFT Detected, Vehicle Immobilized.

This DTC may be caused by :

Suspect PATS module.

Suspect circuit fault between PCM and PATS.

Suspect PCM.

===END PCM DTC P1260===

===RCM DTC B1884===
Code: B1884 - Passenger Air Bag Disable Warning Lamp Circuit Failure

Module: Restraint Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Passenger Air Bag Disable Warning Lamp Circuit Failure

===END RCM DTC B1884===

===GEM DTC B1323===
Code: B1323 - Door Ajar Warning Lamp circuit failure

Module: Generic Electronic Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Door Ajar Warning Lamp circuit failure

===END GEM DTC B1323===

===GEM DTC B1428===
Code: B1428 - Safety belt lamp circuit failure

Module: Generic Electronic Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Safety belt lamp circuit failure

--- Possible Causes --------
This code can be generated by:

-Ground Short Driver's Seat Belt Lamp

-Open Driver's Seat Belt Lamp

-Suspect Driver's Seat Belt Lamp

-Suspect Generic Electronic Module

===END GEM DTC B1428===

===GEM DTC B1483===
Code: B1483 - Brake On/Off Switch circuit failure

Module: Generic Electronic Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Brake On/Off Switch circuit failure

--- Possible Causes --------
This DTC can be generated by:

-Ground Short Brake Switch

-Open Brake Switch

-Suspect Brake Switch

-Suspect Generic Electronic Module

===END GEM DTC B1483===

===GEM DTC P0500===
Code: P0500 - VSS sensor circuit fault.

Module: Generic Electronic Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

VSS sensor circuit fault.

Open VSS circuit.

Shorted VSS circuit.

This DTC may be caused by :

Suspect VSS.

Worn or Damaged VSS drive gear on transmission output shaft.

Suspect PCM.

Faulty or damaged instrument cluster module.

===END GEM DTC P0500===

===RAP DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Remote Anti-Theft / Personality Module

===END RAP DTC None===

===ABS DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Antilock braking system

===END ABS DTC None===

 

The PATS system on an 03 does not include a starter interrupt so it cannot cause a "no crank" symptom (assuming you are using that term correctly, it often is not). If it failed, it should cause a fast-flashing THEFT light along with a "cranks but does not start/fire" symptom.

What does the THEFT indicator and the odometer do when you turn the ignition key from OFF to RUN and wait?

 

Hey @ProjectSHO89 , I wouldn't be surprised if I was using the term incorrectly. I'm thinking of a "no crank/no start," which my amateurish mind (plus Google, because I'm a nerd) tells me is when I don't hear the engine turn at all.

When I turn the key and wait, the "THEFT" lamp illuminates for three seconds, then turns off. The odometer does not display, but that's normal for my truck -- been hit-or-miss since I got it four years ago. Here's a video:
If it helps, here's what happens when I turn the key (three times in this video):

 

There's an article on the web by a Ford mechanic that's been around for the entire life of PATS and in the article he says of the over 1,000 times he's dealt with PATS issues he could count on one hand the problem was an actual PATS problem. Except for those few times it's always been a problem with circuits tied to PATS and usually the HEC or GEM\CTM Module. Those circuits tied to PATS are referred to as PATS Control Functions and since you don't have the theft light, which can't be relied upon to mean much, that's where your problem will be found. You have a lot of codes to suggest this.

Also, P1260 is NOT engine disable by PATS. P1260 is PCM is disabled because of a PATS concern. That's from Ford. PATS concerns are not key issues. They have their own codes.

 

It's not a PATS problem. PATS proved out normally in the first video. PATS CANNOT cause a "no crank" on this vehicle.

It would appear that your shift lever is not properly in Park or Neutral. If it isn't, the starter will never get its signal to activate and you will nave the symptom properly classified as "no crank".

 

Could be the problem. I'm wondering about his brake switch failure code. I don't and won't buy an automatic but I know there are cars that won't start unless the brake pedal is pushed in when starting. Is that true for these trucks?

BTW, do you have a remote for the truck? Could the starter interrupt be activated?

 

Nope. The neutral/park safety interlock is associated with the shift lever position. For a manual transmission, it would connected to the clutch pedal.

I'd bet the brake switch code is due to improper Quick Test timing.

Good question. He didn't indicate an aftermarket system was present and I saw the shift indicator misalignment right away. I'd bet he's suffering from a "sloppy shifter".

 

Is this one of those, pull up on the shift lever when starting issues? Had a 64 Econoline Pickup that was like that.

 

Thank you! Based on the number of codes, does it make sense to start with the GEM? If so, I'll pull it and check for water and corrosion.

@ProjectSHO89 , I've had some success in the past by bumping the shift lever, but that hasn't helped this go-round. I just tried pulling up on the shifter; no dice.

@River1 I've tried starting with and without my foot on the brake; no luck. I have a remote around here somewhere, but haven't used it for a few months. What exactly do you mean by "starter interrupt?"

 

I would have gone there. It's a B to get out and in because of stiff, short cables and it's under the fuse panel. I've read here about people cleaning them and then hitting them with a hair dryer with success. But the suggestion of the lever makes sense too. If the lever isn't fully engaged in park the starter won't work. That's been my experience anyway. As I said with that Econoline, I had to pull up on the lever which put the indicator to the left of park for the truck to start. I wish I had kept that truck now. Got offered too much for it after I had it for a month and I didn't have my license yet. Mom was real happy to see it go!