I'm about to pull my hair out. Today after work hubby put key in the ignition, lights came on but wouldn't start. He heard a buzzing sound coming from the steering column, could not be heard in engine. Checked engine, found negative cable loose and tightened it. Tried to jump it but nothing. Tapped starter with hammer, nothing. Finally pushed it and it started (manual). Drove home but when he shut it off, would not restart. Pushed it again and went to auto parts store. Battery tested fine. Cables were not corroded. Suggested we try replacing the ignition switch. So we did. Nothing. Suggested we test the relay. We disconnected the push-on connection which is the signal wire for the ignition switch and used a jumper wire from the positive terminal on the battery to test it. Started right up. Suggested we replace relay anyway, just in case. We did. Nothing.

I'm at a loss as to what to try next. I would assume that since it does start with the jumper wire the starter is not faulty. I would also assume that since it starts from the relay there must be a problem from the key to the relay? Or am i not understanding something right?

Any suggestion would be appreciated. My hubby is a plumber and not very mechanically inclined. I know a little bit but not enough for something like this.

 

Try jumping the 2 large posts on the round starter solenoid that's mounted on the passenger side firewall. I had a similar issue, replaced the key switch, neutral switch, and starter relay before I figured it out. Replaced the solenoid and all was good. Hope this helps.

 

I thought that was the relay. That's what the Chilton's manual said. That's what i replaced today.

 

Apparently the parts store calls it a relay, and also a solenoid...::shrugs:: Swap out the starter relay in the fuse panel under the hood. That may be your problem. If not, you may want to check the connection on the neutral safety switch or even replace it. It should be on the transmission where the linkage attaches. It ensures that the vehicle is in park or neutral before starting.

 

The ignition wire to the starter is a very thin gauge wire with a rubber boot on it that connects to a bolt. It could be alot of things causing this: bad ignition switch, multiple fuses, bad connections outside the switch, tranny range sensor, and all kinds of other things.

I had the same issue and didnt want to buy a new ignition so I just ran a wire(spliced into) from the large gauge Red/Light Blue wire under the dash (only active when key is turned to crank). Then ran it to the small wire with the boot on the starter relay (on the firewall). Simple 5 buck fix in 30 min

 

Thanks. I'm going to try the relay in the fuse panel today. But I'm still thinking there might be something wrong from the ignition to the relay.

 

We replaced the ignition switch and the relay on the firewall. When we use a jumper wire on the relay it starts right up. So my thoughts are there is a problem before the relay...maybe that thin gauge wire or maybe something else? The ignition?
I'm not mechanically inclined enough to bypass it. So I've got to figure this out. I don't drive it much but I'm not going to use a jumper wire to start it every time. LOL

 

If your vehicle don't start when engine is hot, it's just a Bad Ground. If you installed a lot of aftermarket accessories you need to upgrade to a larger battery cable. The ignition key switch can only handle small amount of amps. That's why the headlights, A/C switch, cigarette & accessory connector, etc. are connected directly to the battery.


Buy a Push start switch and connect it to the small wiring in the starter relay.

 

We haven't installed any aftermarket items. We've only had the truck since August. No problems with it prior to this. All of a sudden it wouldn't start even though it started just fine that morning.

 

If it's a high mileage truck, I'd check the wiring going to the transmission. More specifically the neutral safety switch. Also check the clutch safety switch. Both of these "safeties" can keep the vehicle from starting with the normal operations. When you use jumper wires, you are essentially bypassing the vehicles safety features. I've had to replace a few neutral safety switches on vehicles, but not many. Just another idea to think about.