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Valve Lifter/Cam Phaser problem (help)

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Old 01-03-2014, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Chzzn
Just an update I did try this, and in doing so my cold start was quiet and easy with no rattling or ticking! So then I assume it's valve train with bad lubrication? After I warmed up the truck and ran it for awhile the ticking noise was still there though, and I guess I could call it a knock after all.. The warmed up noise in low RPM is quite loud in comparison to all the other intricate noises this motor makes, but only happens when accelerating.
Good to know. I believe it's that momentary lack of lubrication that damages these heads. What I've yet to find is the cause because all these noises were not there when the engine was new. I'm going to start doing the gas pedal stump at start up, perhaps that will help limit future damage.
Old 01-04-2014, 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Chzzn
Alright guys I'm starting to research the cam phaser kits on ebay and other places. Does anyone have a suggestion/link to a good place to get the full cam phaser kit including the tool and the parts for the chain tensioners, and is there possibly an aftermarket brand that makes BETTER kits than the OEM ones? I know it's going to be pricey so I'll deal with that.. but If there's an aftermarket one that lasts longer than the stock OEM one that would be a lot better I could imagine.
I had the same exact problem as you, here was
My final fix, I bought phasers and a full timing
Set ( it comes with chains, tensioners , guides
And lower gear) from rock auto . I got new timing
Cover gaskets crank gasket and valve cover
Gaskets from an auto parts store. It cost me
$400. I then paid 1200 labor for the install,
After all my research it turned out the two things
I thought were true... I had 1 sprung phaser ,
Which is the noise you hear at full temp.
I also had a shot tensioner wich causes
Noise at cold start and chain slap .
And just for fun after the repairs I put
A tuner in ... Fully fixed!
FYI... Check out livernois.com
They have limiters and lockouts for the
Phasers with tuner if you choose.
I didn't go that route myself but it's
Worth looking into.
Hope this helps
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Old 01-04-2014, 12:27 PM
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Hey guys just wanted to let everyone know that we have a proven solution to the dreaded cam phaser problem, which is the most common failure or issue with the 4.6L / 5.4L 3V Ford engines. This package is the only true, long term repair , and can save thousands of dollars in unnecessary or temporary repairs. The kit includes the cam phaser lockout, the AIW pre programmed hand held tuner which eliminates the need for custom tuning, our Livernois Motorsports chain wedge tool, and OEM quality cam phaser bolts.
To order please visit this link: http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/...der-Combo.html
Old 01-09-2014, 04:10 PM
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Sorry Livernois but I will be using RockAuto.com for OEM type replacements. I love this truck. A mechanic friend of mine and I are going to tackle this repair together. (most likely) We are planning to do it all. New cam phasers, new timing set, new coolant, and a complete oil change. Probably going to be a weekend worth of work, but my truck is worth it. Anyone else who ends up on my thread make sure you check out S_Vares thread about this repair. He has created a very good step by step instruction manual. Guy's who aren't even mechanics/technicians have done this job with good outcomes. Thanks everyone for the help! I will post when I order parts and receive them, as well as post my procedure and how it goes. Also if for some reason I end up not doing this myself I will post how much it cost me to do the entire thing; although, I was quoted for about $2500!!1!

Here's the link to S_Vares repair thread:

https://www.f150forum.com/f4/final-r...141266/index1/
Old 01-10-2014, 11:57 PM
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Good luck. I replaced my whole timing assembly with new phasers for about $300. Cloyes kit from Amazon and a steal on 3 oem updated phasers I found on eBay. Hardest part for me was getting to the valve cover bolts!

I'd say it took me about 10 hours total.
Old 03-25-2014, 09:40 AM
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Ok, i hate to be THAT GUY, but do you hold the pedal down while crancking the engine for lubrication? Or do you let it go before you cranck it?

Thanks
Old 03-25-2014, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Mario01XLT
Ok, i hate to be THAT GUY, but do you hold the pedal down while crancking the engine for lubrication? Or do you let it go before you cranck it? Thanks
Holding the pedal while cranking allows the engine to crank but not start thus allowing the oil to circulate through the engine. Then stop cranking and start.
Old 03-25-2014, 02:13 PM
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So it won't fire up wide open if I try this?

That is the only time I have had the ticking sound. But it is more like a morse code sound not constant and goes away after a few minutes?
Old 04-18-2014, 06:58 PM
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Alright I've taken off the valve covers and timing cover. There is some special tool that is used to hold the valves closed when taking off the cam rockers.. Is there any way I can keep the cams in place while I replace everything so I don't have to magically find the special tool?
Old 04-18-2014, 07:39 PM
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Also the guide from Mitchell1 is telling me I have to take the camshafts completely out.. Really not sure that's it's necessary?


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