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Turboing??

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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 11:46 PM
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Default Turboing??

07 Scab 5.4l thinking about turboing. read that luckythirteen13 has turboed his truck and for the price he slung out, it sounds like something i wanna do what do i need other than a turbo, bov, piping, an oil pump, and a tune which i have a buddy that can do that for about 100 using an hp tuners pro tuner. Do i really need an intercooler? i live in AR so temps can get up to around 110 in the summer. and will all this work with my stock MAF? im assuming the computer will take care of it???

im sure im missing something else im needing to go with it.
i dont want crazy power numbers just wanna keep up with my buddy when he races me in his turbo eclipse
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 10:56 AM
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How much psi are you planning on running? Your gonna need to build up your internals
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 12:02 PM
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Like 6 tops well within safe stock internals range.
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 12:17 PM
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If you can get an intercooler than do it!! and look into a oil cooler too. Intercooler should be around $200 new/$100 used. a good oil cooler will be $400 new/$300 used…

I love Stillen's stuff (www.stillen.com) it's sorta pricey but of extreme quality.

Get an intercooler because it'll decrease your charge temp +/- 40degrees no matter what the outside ambient air temp is…

a intercooler is after the turbo but before your intake…so, you're ambient temp is 90 degrees out. So ambient air (at 90d) goes through you're red-hot turbo…it now raises in temperature to 140 degrees…

with no intercooler - you're intake charge temp is 140d after the turbo and goes to the intake at 140d

with an intercooler - your post-turbo air temp is 140d and runs through the intercooler and drops by 40degrees and now goes into the engine at 100degrees.

You want intake air as cool as possible because cooler air is more dense and carries more oxygen per unit, thus making more power.

You'll never keep up with any sports car with that sort of front cross-section…the amount of power needed to over-come that type of air resistance is unreal. You may beat him off the line but around 50mph he'll start catching up…

with that being said - there are many things you can learn from a import tuner (as long as he knows what he is doing and you trust him)


http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...D&model=PICKUP

http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...D&model=PICKUP

Last edited by 3point5; Feb 5, 2012 at 12:23 PM.
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 01:00 PM
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This is the link to the kit I'm looking at off eBay.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=97048312317

It's mobile so idk how it'll work with a full HTML browser.

It has an intercooler and piping with the turbo.
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Seth
This is the link to the kit I'm looking at off eBay.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=97048312317

It's mobile so idk how it'll work with a full HTML browser.

It has an intercooler and piping with the turbo.
A single T3 is way too small for your 5.4, you'll end up spinning it too fast and breaking something. Twin T3s would probably work (it's fairly common in the Mustang world for 4.6s or pushrod 5.0s) but if you want a single turbo you need something bigger.
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 01:37 PM
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Yeah I know when I had my stang and I was on the forums the t3 was pretty common. Have you thought about a supercharger? Even though turbo spool is like ear sex, a supercharger would be easier.
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 02:42 PM
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The one I'm looking at is a t3/t4 hybrid and yes turbo is ear sex man reason I'm wanting and price vs supercharging.
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by coolblue
Your gonna need to build up your internals
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 05:04 PM
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The whine of blower, the whistle of a turbo, and the rumble/crackle of a Harley. Three sounds that will give you multiple eargasams.

If you are intent on doing a Turbo then go for it. Lucky13 is the person to talk to on this site. Follow his recommendations and you will be fine. You can run 10psi without needing a boost-a-pump on the fuel system. The stock MAF maxes out at 980 counts and can be raised to as high as 1021 with tuning. Its good for 450rwhp. 6psi would be enough to **** you off and make you wish you had more. SC'd guys are running 8-12psi with bone stock engines and no problems. I am running 13-14psi with a dyno run of 12.45 peak and the results in my sig. The key is proper tuning and regular maintenance. Letting your buddy tune this truck will probably be your biggest regret. I say this with all due respect to him and his abilities which I know nothing of. I will say this...the tuning in the F150 is insanely complex. It will bring the best Mustang tuners to their knees. Theres a lot that goes into it. Over 15,000 parameters that can be adjusted with custom tuning. It's nothing like tuning a Mustang or an import.

You will need to add a performance valve body to the trans so it will provide you with great performance and a long life. Here to is where so much is involved in the tunning. Shift points, firmness, TC lockup, line pressures and lots more. Regular maintenance is needed. This includes synthetic fluids throughout. Oil changes every 3000 max, and spark plugs that will need changing ever 15-25k. Fuel filter every 10k. O2 sensors should be replaced every 50-70k. They get slow with age. This is very noticeable in boosted motors.

Back to tuning. Ask your potential tuner some questions and see how he responds. If he doesn't know these basics with regards to these trucks then don't let em near it.
1.What is the maximum egt my valves can stand? 1600F for a few seconds before and then the pcm will dump in additional fuel to cool it off. If this doesn't work she goes to limp mode.

2. At what speed will you lock up my stock converter on a wot run? If it's more then 68mph be ready to buy a trans and tc.

3. Will you allow my knock sensors to add timing? If so how much? How will this be affected by ACT? How do you measure ACT temp as the the truck is setup for IAT? First he needs to determine if the MAF is on the intake suction side or the boosted side. If your maf is on the boosted side then you are already measuring ACT. If it's the intake side the relocation is a must. Factory FI'd vehicles have both the IAT and an ACT (Air Charge Temp). The IAT is located in the MAF. Using the wires to it and the parts from a lightning you can make the change to ACT for around $70. The reason why is this... Typically you give the knock senors the ability to add timing in addition to the ability they already have to remove it. This works great to add power and keep it safe. However this to has it's limits. You don't want the knock sensors adding timing when your ACT is above 100-105F. The only way your PCM will know what the temp of the air is going in the cylinder is if you are measuring ACT.

Hope this helps. I've seen to many people struggle with crappy tunes self included and lose motors and trans.

Last edited by Blown Ford; Feb 5, 2012 at 05:24 PM.
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