true-trac or trak-loc ?
true-trac or trak-loc ?
Using as daily driver and 400 mile highway trips on occasion.
*no real rock climbing or off roading being done
*I live with snow in the winter
*I drive through trails on occasion
With the above being said, i have a 6" lift with 35's and want it to be an aggressive 4WD vehicle.
Using as daily driver and 400 mile highway trips on occasion.
*no real rock climbing or off roading being done
*I live with snow in the winter
*I drive through trails on occasion
With the above being said, i have a 6" lift with 35's and want it to be an aggressive 4WD vehicle.
I think you will be fine with either to be honest. You don't sound like you need to spool it so I think it will work out fine for you to get either limited slip. I just have the stock LS so can't comment on what you want but I think that you will be fine with either based on the reviews I have seen and your needs.
If you want to be aggressive offroad then practice offroad. Don't rely on your vehicle to do it for you, learn how to pick good lines and get to know your truck offroad. All this fancy stuff won't do you any good if you don't learn the basics first. I'm not trying to be a dick, just passing on some knowledge to a fellow offroader.
Truetrac is a gear based unit, where as the Trac-Lok is clutch based (aka wears out by design). I had a Truetrac installed in my '08 XL 2WD back in March of 2009 when the truck had around 10k miles on it. 4 years later, the truck now has over 77k and the Truetrac has been GREAT! No issues of any kind, and it provides the best traction a 2WD can have.
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Personally, having driven a open diff pickup and a LS diff truck neither if you use it on the road as much or more than off. I would suggest saving $$ and getting an Air, manual or e-locker. Open diffs are a lot nicer in the snow and wet as they do not tend to want to kick the ***** around corners, but I do understand very well how nice it is to know that when you know its slick off road or several inches of snow covering the road a locked rearend gives you piece of mind. I did make an assumption, and that is your installing a full diff not a lunch box locker (i.e. full diff - ringer gear out, remove carrier, install locker, relash, etc. Lunch box - remove spider gears from carrier and install locker in original carrier, no gear remove no relash, etc.) If your going with alunch box locker then go for it, but if you pulling the rear apart but in a controlable locker, ie. air, electric or cable activated.



