First post here, although I've spent many, many hours reading.

My son bought a 2006 F-150 with Triton 5 4L 3V last year.

Of course, it soon developed a tick in the engine, or it was there when he bought it, and just didn't notice it.

I'm not much of a mechanic, but I've turned a wrench a few times doing normal maintenance.

Together we pulled the valve covers, found a broken rocker in RH side, along with a bent valve. Dropped the oil pan and found the keepers in the pan.

Pulled the timing cover. Found a loose chain on RH side, along with a bad tensioner. Took everything off and ordered replacements.

Pulled the intake manifold and removed the RH valve assembly, then replaced the bent valve. Ordered a full gasket + bolts kit, and replaced the head gasket.

Replaced rockers, lash adjusters, phasers as well. Oh, and plugs and coils. Plus a new high volume oil pump.

I'm in the process of putting a new timing chain on, and I realized I didn't put the timing to TDC before starting this project. Am I screwed?

I've got the timing alignment tool. Is it as simple as putting the notch at 11 o'clock, then aligning the new chains with the single link on the dot and dual link on the R vs L as necessary? (I've read the sticky, especially post #5 in the subject).

How does the firing know where the cam shafts are? Do they just use the cam shaft position sensor?

Or an I missing something? The last car I did this much work on had a distributor cap.... (Oh, and it was much easier to work on).

Secondary question on the rockers. Can I loosen up the caps on the cam shaft and put all the rockers in place, after I've done the timing? Or do I need to use that spring compression tool 24 times? Seems like people have done it both ways.

I've got about $1500 in parts on this, along with many, many hours. I don't want to mess it up now.

 

The tool for the crank will set you up right. As long as you have that in place @ ~11:00 and the links at the proper place on the cam phasers then you'll be good. The phasers are set to the cam and the L and R marks on the phasers set the cam position.

You can try to set up as many of the rockers as you can but it's not all that bad using the tool. Goes pretty quick once you're on a roll. Sounds like you're already into it for a bunch of time and money now. Might as well do it right. If the motor's been down for a while the adjusters will bleed out and it's pretty easy getting the rockers in. Set the timing and then do whatever rockers are on base circle that you can get to easy. Rotate things for the next set until done. If you still have one of the retainer clips from the tensioners, I use those to press down on the valve stem to save my thumb.

 

Well I assume you pulled cams . You can set crank dot at six oclock which is the same as keyway at 11 ..If cams are pulled no valves are down to cause a problem . Now leave that crank set at six . Of course you can pull followers but how many . If you look at the book cams are set with lobes facing on 1 and 5 per book . If cams are pulled you can put them back down on the followers carefully watching them and slowly finger tightening them facing 1 and 5 in correct position . The you slowly torque them down in sequence a little each .Its not hard and as long as they are close its going to be okay .
You don't need to know tdc the cam pos takes care of all that . The crank is locked at six dot . That takes care of piston position .





The cam torque is 89 inch pounds or approx 7.5 foot pounds . It helps if someone uses a socket wrench on cam bolt to fight springs when you put on chain . When chains on and triple checked then you must turn crank by hand 2 full cw rotations to prove no valve to piston contact . There is
more than one way to do this job ,of course I prefer cam pulling to messing with that valve tool .
Don't get messed up with the keyway pos versus the crank dot . Some use keyway as its easier to see from the top six oclock dot =11 oclock keyway .
The reluctor wheel is locked to the keyway it tells the crank pos sensor where its at ,that tells the pcm where to fire . The pcm controls the pos of the valve by using hydraulic pressure thru vcts using dirty engine oil to vary cams . The cam pos sensor tells the pcm if its where its supposed to be .
Don't put that reluctor wheel on backwards . Fingers should point at radiator .
Its best to read the ford service on this job several times . You must use fresh sealant on keyway during assembly . All joints on metal surfaces get a dab of sealant .

 

Or said another way, with cams out (or at least roller followers out) and valves closed, you create TDC. Any cylinder whose piston is at the top of its travel is simultaneously at TDC intake and exhaust. Use the steps outlined above (a picture shows 1000 words) and the rest falls into place. Kinda like (maybe not at all but that’s what it reminds me of lol) stabbing a distributor into an old engine, as long as #1 is at the top of its stroke, the #1 wire goes where the rotor happens to be pointing (or 180* from it). The follower tool works great as long as you take your time.

 

Thanks for all of the info. You guys are awesome!

Here's a few pictures of the progress. I work a full time job, so progress is slow.


Left the exhaust manifold on. So much easier.

Valve had a rough life. This is prior to cleaning.

Yep, doing it all with engine in truck. Definitely wasn't at TDC in this photo.

Started out thinking I'd reuse the rockers and lash adjusters, but decided to replace all since I had it open. Solenoids replaced as well.

 

Wow I didn’t realIze these were Siamesed engines. Awesome!

While that head is off with the manifold, you’d better go ahead and replace the exhaust manifold bolts with stainless now or curse yourself later. I sold my truck basically because I just did not want to go through that job. Twice.

 

Just a quick update on where I am with this project.

I got everything back together, and the engine started. Yay!

While driving, there was hesitation during acceleration. It turns out the bank 1 butterfly valve was stuck closed due to the wiring harness being routed on top of that. I took the intake manifold back off, corrected the wiring harness problem, and that code went away.

After that, I took it for another test drive. Way more acceleration, enough that it was hard to not burn out coming up the driveway. I did leave a bit of rubber there. No hesitation, plenty of power, and instantaneous MPG was in the 20-23 range while going 55 on a flat stretch. It felt like a new truck.

Today my son took it in to DEQ, and while waiting in line, the truck sputtered, almost died, and CEL came on. *sigh*. He drove it back home.

Codes P0022, P0171, and P0175.

P0022: Bank 2 over-retarded. VCT can go no further.
P0171: Bank 1 running too lean.
P0175: Bank 2 running too rich

LTFT on Bank 1 is high now while idling (17% or so). Bank 2 is low (-18%). Doing this from memory, so I might have it backwards.
Freeze frame showed LTFT way out of range for both banks.

I did replace the VCT solenoids on this, but it was last minute and I went with aftermarket because it was readily available. Mistake? I saw one other post where a VCT solenoid, fresh from the box, was causing these weird code combinations. Replacing it solved the problem. Fortunately, bank 2 is much easier to get the valve cover off, but I really, really don't want to take that off again.

I checked the old VCT solenoids, and both had pieces of the screen missing. Now... those pieces had to go someplace. Is it possible they got stuck in the phaser? Ugh!

The other thought was that since I had the intake manifold off, I also had to remove the fuel injector rails. Since I had that off, I took each fuel injector off and tried cleaning by bringing the "open" end down hard on a paper towel on a wood table, with the idea being to knock anything loose that might be inside, and get any debris. I don't think this was a problem, but maybe?

My son broke the connector on the MAF sensor while putting it back on. It was just the locking tab portion: everything makes electrical contact. I don't think it came loose, but maybe?

I did not replace the PCV valve, but I probably should at least check it. This is bank 2. It could be not closing all the way.

I'll do the propane test, but I don't hear any hissing, don't have any bad hoses that I can see, and don't have anything unplugged.

Last thought: the fuel in this truck is 2 years old. Could that be part of the problem? I need to fill it up anyway since I read that some of the evap codes won't complete if the tank is less than 1/4 full.

 

Try unplugging the Bank 2 VCT solenoid (or both) and see if that makes any difference. You can replace those without pulling the cover if you have to btw. May damage the gasket/seal around it prying it out but you can get a new seal(s) for not much. Trading off some money for time/trouble. That doesn't rule out some other problem with the phasers/VCT system but go for the easiest first. Doubtful anything has gotten into the phaser.

I've seen the P0171 error three times. Once when I forgot to plug in one of the connectors for the injector. Once when I apparently didn't get a good connection. Both of those easily resolved by checking all connections. Once when I had an injector fail took longer to chase down. That and the rich condition on the other side makes me think that something may not have been put back together right with all of that.

 

Thanks. I just replaced the VCT seals, so they should come out easily. I wasn't sure if I could get a socket in there, though, to take out the 8mm bolt..

 

Torx screwdriver. Sears has a red and black handled "Professional" driver that I've used that's long enough to get in there. T27 I think? It's a captured screw but keep some pressure on it with the driver as you lift out the solenoid together with it just to be sure.