You do need to read the special torque procedure of cam phasors and crank pulley . I kept an eye on my crank pully clearance to block to see if it was near the same as I started . Since it is the alignment for belt , and I had one car that was not in far enough and it would throw belts .
I built my own crank pulley holding tool to get off and on . Crank bolt is torque to yield -one time use .

 

update it is done and over with i have few bugs need to work on one is the fuel injection plug i need to redo the connectors. if anyone know where to get them show me plz. they keep undoing. another thing is my spark connector screw strip so i have to go up a size or get new valve cover for it and last but best part i only had one bolt left over

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/8PCS-Pigtai...7495857?_ul=CN
https://www.ebay.com/itm/16386749585...ASABEgJXs_D_Bw

 

Your cops are fastened to your intake manifold . You may be able to jb weld it then carefully tap it . You must be careful you don't want to damage it . So if you do fill it carefully size it to drill hole to not stress it too much .
Have you ran this engine yet since timing .

 

Just have a quick question !? If the tool is used to hold the crank in place and the timing marks all line up shouldn't it be in time ?? I mean if all that is right then the cam lobes should be in the correct position shouldn't they ?? Because if not then how can the cams be moved to where the lobes should be without getting it out of time !? I just did a timing job on my 2004 f150 5.4 3valve !! And when I put it back in time i had all the roller followers out and I just lined up all the timing marks with while the tool was on the crankshaft !! I never noticed or even looked to see where the can lobes were for #1 & #5 cylinders !! And now when I tried to start it the engine it seems like something is not letting it turn over fast enough for it to start !! I had the battery checked and it was good !! I pulled the starter and it's good !! Really I'm scared to try and start it again because I don't want to bend any valves, if I haven't already bent any !? The reason I had to replace the timing was because one of the cam phasers came apart and let it jump time on one side !! But I never did a compression check on it !!

 

So you put new chains on and you lined the marks on the chains up with the timing marks at both the crank and the R mark on the passenger and L mark on the driver phasers then yes it will be timed correctly.
That also assumes that the timing didn't jump too far before the repair and that the new phaser was installed correctly.
I hope for your sake you used a ford phaser and not an aftermarket one?

 

In theory if all was connected by the links the cams should have been in the proper position .
Viewing the cam position just verifies you were correct . You didn't mix up left and right -versus passenger -driver side which is easy to do . Or your chains were not marked properly or you put the marked link on the wrong symbol on phasor .
But since you jumped time your valves are more likely bent -do a compression check for sure.
You are looking for heads to come off to fix it .
But it seems to me you need to see if something else is amiss . Vac lines ,plugs left off stuff . Blown fuses etc . You should have taken pictures to review , did you turn crank by hand two revs clockwise to prove no piston to valve contact before using starter. .
Its always possible your engine has a leaking injector and it close to hydro lock , small chance. When you take plugs out you can find out.

 

(Not trying to hijack your post, but I thought I'd mention the coil connectors as they suffer the same fate as the injectors):

Luckily I didn't bust any of my injector plugs, but a few coil connectors and one of my cam sensors did! And can you guess which coils broke? Yep.. #4 and #8. And they were NOT fun to replace. I thought ahead though and bought a kit of connectors before I started the job. Once again my BFE town doesn't carry them and if they did - bend over without Vaseline!

Good thing is - the coil connectors are the same as the cam sensors. I would strongly suggest anyone doing this timing job grab a box of these connectors before you start! Chances are high that you will either break that damned little tab, or that inner rubber seal on the inside will get mashed up! Maybe even get a box of connectors for the injectors. They aren't the same as the coils though (unfortunately). Good news is they are cheap. Just make sure they have a decent seal on them. I've seen some that don't have any seal.

If I ever have to mess with my injectors, I'm definitely getting a box of connectors to keep on hand. I think I'll grab a box anyway to keep in the tool box. I've never had one break, but if it does - you can bet it will happen when I'm at Deer or Elk camp!

Here's the coil connectors I used:

 

Have you personally used these connectors? I was looking at a few different brands on Amazon, but the reviews weren't good. I'm curious how well these on Ebay hold up?

 

After reading your notes on procedures of putting rollers back in ,you were moving crank all over the place . Removing cams allows you to put the cam back at timing point crank dot at six oclock . Never moving that crank until all was connected . You would have tightened cams down with all rollers in place with the cams on 1 and 5 facing per book then putting chains on properly . Of course you would have to fight some spring pressure, that's why we recommend a second pair of hands , one on the socket of phasor bolt while you put chains on .Any pair of hands will do ,gf - wife buddy . It doesn't take much but its hard to do by your self . All the time that crank dot stays at six . Moving that crank when you really don't know for sure what's correct is a bad thing . Moving that crank means moving those pistons you have to really know which valves are pushed down versus which piston is up , not something we recommend . Putting rollers in one at a time is very tedious and should only be done with chains on properly timed /synced .
But in your case the valves may have been bent when it jumped time if it jumped enough .


note passenger side is right from drivers seat , drivers side is left . we dropped left and right and use passenger side etc . It is too easy for us to forget when its backwards to us leaning over radiator -mechanic left and right backwards .