Tierod end nut
I've got a 2004 Supercrew with 2WD and a 5.4L. While trying to replace the strut assembly (because I have a broken coil spring) I ran into a snag removing the tie rod end nut. Here is a pic of the nut I'm trying to remove (from a picture I found online of a 4WD truck.)

I was able to turn the nut, but the bolt through the middle of it would turn with it, so it wouldn't actually loosen. I was able to put a socket on the top of the bolt, to hold it in place while I loosened the nut, but when the nut got to the top of it, I couldn't hold onto the bolt anymore.
I've done some searching for how-to's, but everything I've read so far was a one line description saying "remove nut." Thanks for any tips/advice.

I was able to turn the nut, but the bolt through the middle of it would turn with it, so it wouldn't actually loosen. I was able to put a socket on the top of the bolt, to hold it in place while I loosened the nut, but when the nut got to the top of it, I couldn't hold onto the bolt anymore.
I've done some searching for how-to's, but everything I've read so far was a one line description saying "remove nut." Thanks for any tips/advice.
Lube the nut with PB blaster or your preferred penetrating oil and run the nut up and down until it frees up enough to wrap lower threads with shop rag and channel locks don't use alot of tension or you will destroy the threads. Hope this helps.
Hard to tell, and I can't remember from just doing mine, but at the top of the stud (where there is no thread), is there flat sides? The aftermarket ones will have them. If so, take a 10mm wrench and use it to spin the tie rod stud as you spin the nut in the opposite direction.
If no flat spots for a wrench, then just grab the top with some vice grips. Not gonna hurt the tie rod stud or keep the nut from going back on.
You're problem, as explained, is once you broke that nut free the pressure on the taper let loose allowing the stud to spin in the tie rod. No big deal, it either just needs held with a wrench/vice grips, or apply upward pressure from a jack on the tie rod.
You'll find aftermarket tie rods, ball joints, shocks with studs on top etc will have flat sides to their little studs that allow you to put a wrench on them to spin them, or hold them, while you spin the fasteners that hold them in place.
Notice the flat side of the upper part of the stud in this picture.
If no flat spots for a wrench, then just grab the top with some vice grips. Not gonna hurt the tie rod stud or keep the nut from going back on.
You're problem, as explained, is once you broke that nut free the pressure on the taper let loose allowing the stud to spin in the tie rod. No big deal, it either just needs held with a wrench/vice grips, or apply upward pressure from a jack on the tie rod.
You'll find aftermarket tie rods, ball joints, shocks with studs on top etc will have flat sides to their little studs that allow you to put a wrench on them to spin them, or hold them, while you spin the fasteners that hold them in place.
Notice the flat side of the upper part of the stud in this picture.
Last edited by D94R; Oct 12, 2011 at 05:00 AM.
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Ran into the same problem on mine. They are nylok nuts. What has happened is it has drug some of the red plastic locking material down into the threads on the tie rod bolt itself. Best way to free it up is to heat the nut ONLY! Dont get the tie rod too warm or you will ruin it. It doesnt take much heat, just enough to melt/burn the plastic out of the nut.Just make sure you replace with a new nylok nut.
Thanks for the help/suggestions guys. A little PB Blaster was enough to get that nut off pretty easy. The bolt didn't move as I was turning the nut. That PB is pretty impressive.
I got the strut assembly out, but now my lower control arm isn't low enough to install the new strut. Now, I guess I've got to disconnect the sway bar on both ends to relieve that pressure to get it in. I ran out of light last night, so we'll see how it goes tonight.
FYI, moving from a house with a nicely setup garage to an apartment blows.
I got the strut assembly out, but now my lower control arm isn't low enough to install the new strut. Now, I guess I've got to disconnect the sway bar on both ends to relieve that pressure to get it in. I ran out of light last night, so we'll see how it goes tonight.
FYI, moving from a house with a nicely setup garage to an apartment blows.






