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I managed to get them all out. The previous owner had champion plugs in there which probably helped getting them out without any breaking. I'm putting Motorcraft SP515s in there with some nickel anti-sieze. The champions were in pretty good shape except most of them were in the 0.060 range for gap. Now to get the new ones in and everything cleaned up.
man those plugs look in good shape. I had mine changed @ 50K and they were 75% wore out. May have made it to 75K before misfiring. I had Motorcraft SP-515 put back in. all came out w/o a problem-used 2 tanks of SeaFoam before removal. Found a Ford dealer who did the whole job for $300-total.
They didn't look too bad but I did wipe the carb cleaner off of them that was soaking in the plug well. That cleaned off some of the gunk that was on the extended nose part. I had also run 3 tanks of gas each treated with a different type of fuel system cleaner before doing it too. I've had the truck for about 35,000 miles so they have at least that many on them. I have no idea when they were last changed. The gap was open too much but otherwise they looked in pretty good shape.
I was going to have a talk with my dirty motor HA!
Those plugs were awful clean should have known they were cleaned .
Using anti seize is controversial ,if done sparingly with nickel stuff it can be useful . If overdone it can cause problems .
It can interfere with ground return on threads making a poor spark , I am sure you would use it wisely . There have been many reports of people getting it on thick and on nose of plugs , on porcelain and boots . The same with dielectric grease ,guys were filling the whole boot with it and putting it on electrical connections . It is an insulator not a conductive gel .
Then there is copper anti seize, not good for aluminum heads nor does it have the heat range of nickel .
Thats some of the history , some feel that with the carbon build up around the snout anti seize changes the heat range of the plug also .I believe in removing carbon with carb cleaner .
Right now I'm still running champions and plan on keeping it that way at 177k we will reevaluate at 250k hopefully . I have 8 new sp 515 's to sell now .
Those plugs were awful clean should have known they were cleaned .
Using anti seize is controversial ,if done sparingly with nickel stuff it can be useful . If overdone it can cause problems .
It can interfere with ground return on threads making a poor spark , I am sure you would use it wisely . There have been many reports of people getting it on thick and on nose of plugs , on porcelain and boots . The same with dielectric grease ,guys were filling the whole boot with it and putting it on electrical connections . It is an insulator not a conductive gel .
Then there is copper anti seize, not good for aluminum heads nor does it have the heat range of nickel .
Thats some of the history , some feel that with the carbon build up around the snout anti seize changes the heat range of the plug also .I believe in removing carbon with carb cleaner .
Right now I'm still running champions and plan on keeping it that way at 177k we will reevaluate at 250k hopefully . I have 8 new sp 515 's to sell now .
You really always should use nickle anti seize on the plugs. Nickle is a conductor, it's not the best (silver), but it's more about breaking the surface tension on the metal to metal contact of 2 dissimilar metals that will in theory bond together as they will eventually corrode together without anti seize.
I use anti-seize on damn near everything that doesn't require lock-tight.
No mention of the impact method anywhere?
It's probably the best way to attack these plugs.
A 3/8 cordless impact and an array of wobble extensions can have these plugs zipped out of those heads break free in under an hour.. Always crank them in by hand tho.
Also, I wouldn't leave plugs in these heads for more than 50k miles. In my case being supercharged I pull mine every 20k miles or sooner. No crack and soak, I just use the impact on a warm motor. Never had a break yet.
07-05-2017, 12:18 AM
