Seafoam Usage
For about 1/3 of the can or just under half a can.... It works the best through the throttle body IMO...
The long straw seafoam provides with deep creep makes this method very safe since the straw is literally touching the throttle plate through that hole..
On my Volant I just pull the breather hose and do it through there. It only takes about 2 mins.
I've heard a lot of positive comments about Sea Foam, but has anyone tried this with negative results? I've also read different things like not reving the engine hard afterwards, or that you should, ect..
I curious, because I want to keep my engine clean, but not at the expense of potentially messing it up. At this point I'm considering only adding it directly to the fuel and/or oil.
I curious, because I want to keep my engine clean, but not at the expense of potentially messing it up. At this point I'm considering only adding it directly to the fuel and/or oil.
Like most of these additives, Seafoam contains Stoddard Solvent, a light oil commonly known as paint thinner. Seafoam also adds alcohol, which probably accounts for its famous smoke.
If you decide to use it in your top end, keep in mind that adding oil to the fuel mix (unintuitively) causes a lean mixture. So avoid heavy loads when it is in your tank.
Any solvent you put in your crankcase—especially one strong enough to dissolve sludge—will be washing your engine bearings (top and bottom) while it is in there. I wouldn't recommend driving during this accelerated wear condition.
If you've religiously changed your oil since new, you won't have crankcase deposits. And while Seafoam might clean your intake manifold, the rest of the intake system stays pretty clean. Still, used carefully, Seafoam might bd a good treatment for formerly abused engines.
If you decide to use it in your top end, keep in mind that adding oil to the fuel mix (unintuitively) causes a lean mixture. So avoid heavy loads when it is in your tank.
Any solvent you put in your crankcase—especially one strong enough to dissolve sludge—will be washing your engine bearings (top and bottom) while it is in there. I wouldn't recommend driving during this accelerated wear condition.
If you've religiously changed your oil since new, you won't have crankcase deposits. And while Seafoam might clean your intake manifold, the rest of the intake system stays pretty clean. Still, used carefully, Seafoam might bd a good treatment for formerly abused engines.
I would be careful of the cats ,they are very expensive . I have tried seafoam in brake booster hose but I wasn't impressed.
I do run 5w-30 full syn and 1 quart marvel m oil every 5k or 4 months . . When I change plugs I clean out snout area of cly to get that plug seizing carbon out of there with carb cleaner . . Keep her clean and don't go over 5k on oil changes .
This will get the combustion carbon out of it , you are trying to clean out the vcts filters ,phasor passages/ lashs etc .
Nothing is going to stop chain stretch ,plastic guide failure ,or tensioner gasket failure. Some of it is luck . Replacing VCTS at 100k is good . Replacing with new injectors over 100k good . Just replacing phasors not good . Expect to do a timing job with upgraded components between 140k and 160k .
Marvel m oil is a good slow cleaner in crankcase . I wouldn't try an engine flush unless you are going to do timing job right then . I did and it broke stuff lose and got much worse but I expected that . Since I cleaned her out at timing job I do an engine flush every other oil change since she hasn't had time to sludge up .
I did not try seafoam in crankcase but I would not overdo it as you don't want to break a lot of stuff loose.
This hydraulically controlled variable cam circuit using dirty engine oil has small passages and filters in it . It would be like breaking loose the Plaque in your blood all at once and sending it towards your brain.
Hopefully your seafoam may help some in moderation .
I do run 5w-30 full syn and 1 quart marvel m oil every 5k or 4 months . . When I change plugs I clean out snout area of cly to get that plug seizing carbon out of there with carb cleaner . . Keep her clean and don't go over 5k on oil changes .
This will get the combustion carbon out of it , you are trying to clean out the vcts filters ,phasor passages/ lashs etc .
Nothing is going to stop chain stretch ,plastic guide failure ,or tensioner gasket failure. Some of it is luck . Replacing VCTS at 100k is good . Replacing with new injectors over 100k good . Just replacing phasors not good . Expect to do a timing job with upgraded components between 140k and 160k .
Marvel m oil is a good slow cleaner in crankcase . I wouldn't try an engine flush unless you are going to do timing job right then . I did and it broke stuff lose and got much worse but I expected that . Since I cleaned her out at timing job I do an engine flush every other oil change since she hasn't had time to sludge up .
I did not try seafoam in crankcase but I would not overdo it as you don't want to break a lot of stuff loose.
This hydraulically controlled variable cam circuit using dirty engine oil has small passages and filters in it . It would be like breaking loose the Plaque in your blood all at once and sending it towards your brain.
Hopefully your seafoam may help some in moderation .
Thanks for the input - nice information. I think that for now, I will just put it in the fuel tank. Maybe right before my next oil change I'll put some in the crankcase. I always change my oil at 3,500 miles or 6 months whichever comes first, but I did purchase my truck used so I can never be sure of the previous maintenance.






