OK, here's the deal. 2004 4.2l V6, 5 speed. Had a CEL, and had to limp home. Sorry, but haven't had an opportunity to hook up a code reader yet. Anyway, had a sputter, and zero power. It had been sputtering for about a month or so, and had gotten progressively worse. Figured maybe a bad fuel filter. Changed filter, and then it REALLY ran like crap. Changed coil pack, plugs, wires, cleaned MAF, sea foam in gas tank and throttle body. No CEL since, but the truck isn't even driveable. I know I won't know more until I hook up a reader, but until then, any insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

Maybe check the fpdm above the spare tire on the frame.

 

x2, your truck exhibits classic symptoms of one gone bad.

 

OK, now, any suggestions on how to get the spare tire down without the crank adapter? I bought the truck used, and didn't know about the later models needing an adapter. BTW, just now noticed that I have no jack, either.

 

If you dont have a crank then follow the path where the crank goes to the spare tire. You ll have to try to spin it with a wrench until you either have enough room to replace it or cut the cable supporting the spare tire. You ll just lose your spare tire mount until you get it fixed or say screw it and chunk it in the bed. I bet this fixes your issue.


Also did you check under the seat for your handle? Its in a grey cloth case.

 

I have the crank, but not the stupid freakin' anti-theft adapter that goes on the end of it.

 

OK. Hooked up an OBDII reader, threw me a P0511, P1000, and P0174 codes. Replaced the isolator bolts, intake gaskets and plenum gasket to take care of the bank2 lean condition. Cleaned the IAC. Haven't gotten another code yet, but I still run like crap. Is it possible to have an fpdm or dpfe module going out without it throwing a code? I'm at about my wit's end at this point.

 

I had two misfiring spark plugs which were very violent.. Like bucking down the highway... It was embarrassing but I still didn't pull a code. So ya, anything goes when it comes to check engine lights lol

 

I ran a series of tests on the whole EGR system(http://www.easyautodiagnostics.com/f...gr_valve_6.php). DPFE module seems to be good, and the EGR valve works like it's suppose to. Getting juice to the EGR vacuum solenoid, but when doing the road test, the vacuum is sporatic at best. Should get 5 inHg under acceleration, but about half the time I get bumpkis, so I might have a bad EGR vacuum solenoid. A $30 fix. Fingers crossed.

 

Update.....Haven't changed out the egr vac solenoid yet, because a mechanic whiz at work said to check a couple of other things first. 1) Fuel Pressure. Checked, about 38 psi, so that rules out pressure regulator and fpdm. 2) Manifold vacuum. Checked, 17 inHg, steady, at idle. Blip throttle, drops to 0, then right back up about 17-18 inHg. 3) Brake booster. Checked, held vacuum. 4) Vacuum lines. Checked all that I could, ALL hold vacuum with ZERO leak-down.

The only other courses of action that I see are:
1. Compression test
2. Go ahead and change the EGR vacuum solenoid anyway & see what happens
3. Accept the fact that I might have a bad PCM

Any thoughts?