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2004 - 2008 Ford F150 General discussion on the 2004 - 2008 Ford F150 truck.

Rize or procomp?

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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 01:12 AM
  #11  
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Jimbooo
 
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Depends if the shop offers regearing. Go to a reputable shop though. I ran 37's on my 3:73s for 50,000 miles and no problem. Yes I did loose a ton of power, and yes it is stressful on trans, but it can be done. I would NOT recommend doing it though. Gear up to 4:88's and you'll be golden. You can wait though if you need to get the dough or don't have time. Definitely do 37's on 17/18/20s if you do the 8 inch lift.
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 10:44 AM
  #12  
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I have 7.5" of total lift (Fabtech with Dirt Logic coilovers) on 35's, and the tires don't look too small. I regeared to 4.56's, and I couldn't be happier. You COULD run your stock gearing, but that's just adding more stress to your tranny... not to mention the huge power loss from lugging those bigass tires around

I would say go with Rize. I'm not a huge fan of ProComp's lifts, but that's just personal preference... but like someone else said, if you're going to get the bug to make it taller, just go with the 8"
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 01:14 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by lvhonda55
If you have the Rize lift with 35's its going to look goofy. I had 37's on my procomp stage 2 and it looked perfect. If you go rize you need to go 37's or it'll look kinda retarted. Stay procomp stage 2 with 35's and that'll be a clean lift.
I have the Procomp stage 2 with 34.5" and my tires get really close to the fender when offorading. I definitely recommend against the 37" unless you plan on cutting the fenders, or get the 8" lift.
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 01:16 PM
  #14  
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i just ordered my 8 inch bds lift with new leaf springs and dual steering stabilizers.. totally stoked!
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 09:18 PM
  #15  
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Jimbooo
 
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Originally Posted by californiachad
I have the Procomp stage 2 with 34.5" and my tires get really close to the fender when offorading. I definitely recommend against the 37" unless you plan on cutting the fenders, or get the 8" lift.


Adjust the coilovers buddy. That's why they give you the option to adjust them from 0-3 inches. Learn the lift.
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 11:27 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by lvhonda55
Adjust the coilovers buddy. That's why they give you the option to adjust them from 0-3 inches. Learn the lift.
I didn't get a manual or anything with my lift. Is it easy to adjust? What about the rear tires? I think the back is even worse than the front because my truck sits a little high in the front.
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 11:46 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by lvhonda55
Adjust the coilovers buddy. That's why they give you the option to adjust them from 0-3 inches. Learn the lift.
Well that was rude... lol, not everyone here is a gearhead, 'buddy'. I know I have learned a lot on here by asking questions. Don't be so quick to knock someone
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 01:36 PM
  #18  
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You should have got the spanner wrenches for them. There are two of them on the coil, You will loosen the top one I believe and then crank the bottom one down so the truck will rise up, then you crank the other one back down on top of it to lock it in place. FYI.... Alignment will be messed up so that will need to be done. Also, The more you crank the front the more angle the CV's (if you have 4WD) will have causing them to have more stress on them. I had to replace mine at 65,000 miles (under warranty though luckily). Regardless of more stress or not, after putting a lift on a truck you will be putting twice the wear as usual practically due to the truck not being built to accommodate these parts with factory applications. I towed a 30 foot boat on it and had no clearance problems and I ran 37/12.5/17's BFG A/T's.

Also, I didn't mean to be rude and I apologize for that, but it bugs me when people say hey don't do that or that's wrong when they don't know some of the facts. Once again, my regards for doing that.
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 01:43 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by lvhonda55
You should have got the spanner wrenches for them. There are two of them on the coil, You will loosen the top one I believe and then crank the bottom one down so the truck will rise up, then you crank the other one back down on top of it to lock it in place. FYI.... Alignment will be messed up so that will need to be done. Also, The more you crank the front the more angle the CV's (if you have 4WD) will have causing them to have more stress on them. I had to replace mine at 65,000 miles (under warranty though luckily). Regardless of more stress or not, after putting a lift on a truck you will be putting twice the wear as usual practically due to the truck not being built to accommodate these parts with factory applications. I towed a 30 foot boat on it and had no clearance problems and I ran 37/12.5/17's BFG A/T's.

Also, I didn't mean to be rude and I apologize for that, but it bugs me when people say hey don't do that or that's wrong when they don't know some of the facts. Once again, my regards for doing that.
Thanks for the info! I wasn't aware of all that either, and I may have to adjust my coilovers as well. There is quite a bit of thread left to crank Damn it, now I'll need bigger rear blocks hahaha. Thanks again
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 03:59 PM
  #20  
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Yes if you go with 37's.You will want to regear.There big *** tires.Bigger tires means pushing more weight= more rotational mass,more stress on the gears just to push it.So yes you will want to regear inorder to move them back to stock levels and more.Also just for get up and go you will want to re-gear.Good call on the programer also.That will help out.
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