Rear vibration
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2014
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Rear vibration
Over the past few months, when I'm at a stop and accelerate/turn my rear end vibrates. I took it to a local mechanic and they changed the rear differential fluid, which didn't help. Any ideas on what a fix?
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 452
Likes: 34
From: Western Mass
I can guarantee it is one of two things:
1) if you don't use your e-brake alot, the pin in the armature has rusted, and I can tell you how to fix it.
or
2) if you have a limited slip rear end you need to add motorcraft friction modifier or change your clutch packs depending on how worn they are.
I have been through both of these and no longer have any vibration.
1) if you don't use your e-brake alot, the pin in the armature has rusted, and I can tell you how to fix it.
or
2) if you have a limited slip rear end you need to add motorcraft friction modifier or change your clutch packs depending on how worn they are.
I have been through both of these and no longer have any vibration.
Last edited by Mod (Ret.); Mar 12, 2015 at 05:59 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 134
Likes: 15
From: Maine
As Bill2014 has said check your e-brake first, that is pretty easy to check. And yes if you have Limited slip rear you could try that modifier if its not the ebrake.
It is a very common problem to have the levers rust together and the e-brake shoes inside the rotor drum will not retract fully. If you look at the lever sticking out of the back of the wheel/hub area right where the cable attaches see if it is all the way toward the rear or if it is stuck somewhere in the middle. If it is in the middle almost certain that you have an e-brake problem.
It is still possible that you have the ebrake problem if they are all the way back and it would require further checking. You would have to remove the tire, caliper, and rotor to get a good look (note if your levers are rusted and/or the cause of vibration is the e-brake shoes you will have a tough time getting the rotors off, you can try releasing the tension with the adjuster from the back).
I just went through this with my 2008 that I just bought, not the vibration issue, but my ebrake would not work at all and it would fail inspection. I fixed it yesterday. Much to my surprise when I took the rotors off the e-brake did not exist at all. The only thing left there was the levers. They had rusted together and caused e-brake problems (possibly the vibration) and apparently the previous owners solution was to completely remove the e-brake except for the levers. This actually made it easier for me because I intended to replace the shoes and hardware anyways (total in parts was only about $35) so I didn't have to mess with removing the old stuff. Obviously I'm peeved that the dealer sold it to me this way but it was an easy fix.
If your levers are rusted together you can either break them apart and clean them up with a grinder or dremel and put them back (this is what I did) or you can buy a new lever kit but they are a bit more expensive then the other brake parts.
It is a very common problem to have the levers rust together and the e-brake shoes inside the rotor drum will not retract fully. If you look at the lever sticking out of the back of the wheel/hub area right where the cable attaches see if it is all the way toward the rear or if it is stuck somewhere in the middle. If it is in the middle almost certain that you have an e-brake problem.
It is still possible that you have the ebrake problem if they are all the way back and it would require further checking. You would have to remove the tire, caliper, and rotor to get a good look (note if your levers are rusted and/or the cause of vibration is the e-brake shoes you will have a tough time getting the rotors off, you can try releasing the tension with the adjuster from the back).
I just went through this with my 2008 that I just bought, not the vibration issue, but my ebrake would not work at all and it would fail inspection. I fixed it yesterday. Much to my surprise when I took the rotors off the e-brake did not exist at all. The only thing left there was the levers. They had rusted together and caused e-brake problems (possibly the vibration) and apparently the previous owners solution was to completely remove the e-brake except for the levers. This actually made it easier for me because I intended to replace the shoes and hardware anyways (total in parts was only about $35) so I didn't have to mess with removing the old stuff. Obviously I'm peeved that the dealer sold it to me this way but it was an easy fix.
If your levers are rusted together you can either break them apart and clean them up with a grinder or dremel and put them back (this is what I did) or you can buy a new lever kit but they are a bit more expensive then the other brake parts.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 858
Likes: 32
From: Mississippi
As Bill2014 has said check your e-brake first, that is pretty easy to check. And yes if you have Limited slip rear you could try that modifier if its not the ebrake.
It is a very common problem to have the levers rust together and the e-brake shoes inside the rotor drum will not retract fully. If you look at the lever sticking out of the back of the wheel/hub area right where the cable attaches see if it is all the way toward the rear or if it is stuck somewhere in the middle. If it is in the middle almost certain that you have an e-brake problem.
It is still possible that you have the ebrake problem if they are all the way back and it would require further checking. You would have to remove the tire, caliper, and rotor to get a good look (note if your levers are rusted and/or the cause of vibration is the e-brake shoes you will have a tough time getting the rotors off, you can try releasing the tension with the adjuster from the back).
I just went through this with my 2008 that I just bought, not the vibration issue, but my ebrake would not work at all and it would fail inspection. I fixed it yesterday. Much to my surprise when I took the rotors off the e-brake did not exist at all. The only thing left there was the levers. They had rusted together and caused e-brake problems (possibly the vibration) and apparently the previous owners solution was to completely remove the e-brake except for the levers. This actually made it easier for me because I intended to replace the shoes and hardware anyways (total in parts was only about $35) so I didn't have to mess with removing the old stuff. Obviously I'm peeved that the dealer sold it to me this way but it was an easy fix.
If your levers are rusted together you can either break them apart and clean them up with a grinder or dremel and put them back (this is what I did) or you can buy a new lever kit but they are a bit more expensive then the other brake parts.
It is a very common problem to have the levers rust together and the e-brake shoes inside the rotor drum will not retract fully. If you look at the lever sticking out of the back of the wheel/hub area right where the cable attaches see if it is all the way toward the rear or if it is stuck somewhere in the middle. If it is in the middle almost certain that you have an e-brake problem.
It is still possible that you have the ebrake problem if they are all the way back and it would require further checking. You would have to remove the tire, caliper, and rotor to get a good look (note if your levers are rusted and/or the cause of vibration is the e-brake shoes you will have a tough time getting the rotors off, you can try releasing the tension with the adjuster from the back).
I just went through this with my 2008 that I just bought, not the vibration issue, but my ebrake would not work at all and it would fail inspection. I fixed it yesterday. Much to my surprise when I took the rotors off the e-brake did not exist at all. The only thing left there was the levers. They had rusted together and caused e-brake problems (possibly the vibration) and apparently the previous owners solution was to completely remove the e-brake except for the levers. This actually made it easier for me because I intended to replace the shoes and hardware anyways (total in parts was only about $35) so I didn't have to mess with removing the old stuff. Obviously I'm peeved that the dealer sold it to me this way but it was an easy fix.
If your levers are rusted together you can either break them apart and clean them up with a grinder or dremel and put them back (this is what I did) or you can buy a new lever kit but they are a bit more expensive then the other brake parts.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 134
Likes: 15
From: Maine
First of just rereading original post and not sure if "accelerate/turn" is meant to mean doing either one or if doing both at once, accelerating while turning. If it doesn't do it going straight and only does it at slower speeds while turning then it is more likely the clutch packs. The clutch pack problem is most noticeable at slow speed turns like in a parking lot but the worse it gets the more noticeable it can get with turning at even higher speed causing a vibration. I thint one good way to describe what a clutch pack problems might feel like is it shudders while turning and might feel like your in 4wd when your not. There were a couple TSB's on the clutch pack issue, I could only find one of them.
TSB 06-4-4
LIMITED SLIP AXLE CHATTER, SHUDDER, BINDING SENSATION, OR VIBRATION DURING LOW SPEED TURNING MANEUVERS
FORD:
2002-2004 Mustang, Explorer
2003-2004 Expedition
2004 F-150
LINCOLN:
2003 Navigator
MERCURY:
2002-2004 Mountaineer
This article supersedes TSB 06-02-16 to update the Service Procedure.
ISSUE:
Some 2003-2004 Expedition, 2003 Navigator, 2004 F-150 vehicles equipped with a 9.75" or 8.8" limited slip rear axle, and 2002-2004 Explorer 4dr, Mountaineer, and Mustang vehicles equipped with 8.8" limited slip rear axle, may exhibit a chatter, shudder, a binding sensation, or a vibration during low speed turns. On 4X4 vehicles, the sensation may appear to be originating from the front axle or the steering gear.
ACTION:
First verify the condition. On 4X4 trucks ensure that the vehicle is in 2WD, to isolate the rear axle. On all vehicles, turn the wheel fully right (or fully left) and then accelerate the vehicle. If the condition is verified to be in the rear axle, replace the limited slip clutch pack.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
CAUTION:INSTRUCT THE CUSTOMER NOT TO TOW WITH THE VEHICLE FOR 500 MILES (805 KM) AFTER THIS REPAIR, TO ALLOW THE AXLE TO BREAK-IN PROPERLY.
Order and install the appropriate clutch pack, follow the instructions detailed in the Workshop Manual.
INSTALLATION TIPS
PART NUMBERPART NAME6L1Z-4947-A9.75" Axle Clutch KitF5AZ-4947-BA8.8" Axle Clutch Kit5L1Z-4A109-AAxle SealXY-75W140-QLRear Axle LubricantXL-3Additive Friction ModifierW710084-S439Nut (Wheel End)2L1Z-4B422-CACirclips (for 9.75")1L2Z-4B422-BACirclips (for 8.8")F3TZ-4121-AAMetal Tag - 75W140
WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
As far as the e-brake goes I dont think that is really dependent on turning or speed and actually I think the vibration is felt more at a bit higher speeds with that. I do not have any pictures here with me at work but here is a link to a video that shows how to remove and fix the stuck e-brake levers that should give you a good idea about what your looking at.
TSB 06-4-4
LIMITED SLIP AXLE CHATTER, SHUDDER, BINDING SENSATION, OR VIBRATION DURING LOW SPEED TURNING MANEUVERS
FORD:
2002-2004 Mustang, Explorer
2003-2004 Expedition
2004 F-150
LINCOLN:
2003 Navigator
MERCURY:
2002-2004 Mountaineer
This article supersedes TSB 06-02-16 to update the Service Procedure.
ISSUE:
Some 2003-2004 Expedition, 2003 Navigator, 2004 F-150 vehicles equipped with a 9.75" or 8.8" limited slip rear axle, and 2002-2004 Explorer 4dr, Mountaineer, and Mustang vehicles equipped with 8.8" limited slip rear axle, may exhibit a chatter, shudder, a binding sensation, or a vibration during low speed turns. On 4X4 vehicles, the sensation may appear to be originating from the front axle or the steering gear.
ACTION:
First verify the condition. On 4X4 trucks ensure that the vehicle is in 2WD, to isolate the rear axle. On all vehicles, turn the wheel fully right (or fully left) and then accelerate the vehicle. If the condition is verified to be in the rear axle, replace the limited slip clutch pack.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
CAUTION:INSTRUCT THE CUSTOMER NOT TO TOW WITH THE VEHICLE FOR 500 MILES (805 KM) AFTER THIS REPAIR, TO ALLOW THE AXLE TO BREAK-IN PROPERLY.
Order and install the appropriate clutch pack, follow the instructions detailed in the Workshop Manual.
- 6L1Z-4947-A (9.75" limited slip)
- F5AZ-4947-BA (8.8" limited slip)
INSTALLATION TIPS
- Be sure to install NEW circlips and halfshaft/wheel end nuts on IRS rear axle (not included in the service kit)
- Soak the new clutch packs in Additive Friction Modifier (XL-3) for fifteen (15) minutes prior to installation
- For IRS axles, the half shaft seals need to be replaced. Expedition and Explorer/Mountaineer applications should use seal kit part number 5L1Z-4A109-A. Removal of the half shaft excluder seal 1L2Z-1N013 may be required, if equipped, to facilitate re-assembly
- Refill axles with 4 oz. Additive Friction Modifier (XL-3) and the necessary amount of Rear Axle Lubricant (XY-75W140-QL), regardless of the axle lubricant system originally used in the axle. Fill to capacity recommended in the Workshop Manual
PART NUMBERPART NAME6L1Z-4947-A9.75" Axle Clutch KitF5AZ-4947-BA8.8" Axle Clutch Kit5L1Z-4A109-AAxle SealXY-75W140-QLRear Axle LubricantXL-3Additive Friction ModifierW710084-S439Nut (Wheel End)2L1Z-4B422-CACirclips (for 9.75")1L2Z-4B422-BACirclips (for 8.8")F3TZ-4121-AAMetal Tag - 75W140
WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
As far as the e-brake goes I dont think that is really dependent on turning or speed and actually I think the vibration is felt more at a bit higher speeds with that. I do not have any pictures here with me at work but here is a link to a video that shows how to remove and fix the stuck e-brake levers that should give you a good idea about what your looking at.
A dude playing a dude
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 16,813
Likes: 2,065
From: Germany
How to save some troubleshooting time: Pull off the rear tires and remove the rotors. Then remove the parking brake shoes. Put the rotors and tires back on and go for a drive. Vibration gone = parking brake problem.
That'll be $10 please.
That'll be $10 please.
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Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 134
Likes: 15
From: Maine
Yes and if your levers have seized causing the e-brake shoes to contact the rotor you will probably know right away because you will have trouble getting the rotors off without backing of the shoes from behind. While I guess this alone doesn't mean that that is definitely what is causing the vibration issue, it does mean you should do something about your e-brake. Here that is one of the most common things a vehicle fails inspection for so I have to keep my e-brakes working correctly.