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Pulling Hairs..

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Old Jan 2, 2018 | 01:45 PM
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Default Pulling Hairs..

Long winded, but here goes.
About two years ago, I replaced all pads and hub bearings up front. One month later, while headed to West Virginia, a caliper dropped into the driver side, front wheel. The truck drug for about 15-30 feet while getting on an off-ramp. The truck was loaded onto a flat-bed (wheel still dragging) and taken to a shop. One caliper bolt later, I was on the road. Fast forward to now. Ever since then, the wheel has been getting hot. Not red-hot, but hot enough that it requires a large bar to remove lug nuts on that wheel, and a lot of force to remove the caliper bolts, etc. I've solicited advice from people on here, all of which gave great advice, but I still can't pinpoint the issue. Also, after driving for more than five miles, something on that wheel creaks. A very deep creak. Happens when getting in/out or pushing on the wheel. Won't do it if it sits for a while and my ears aren't the best at pinpointing small noises. I've redone pads and replaced that caliper. Have checked brake lines and looked for any play in the wheel. Nothing. Not enough hours in the day it seems...
Last thought...maybe hub, actuator or maybe even CV axle. I really don't want to throw hundreds of dollars at it...to fix nothing
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Old Jan 2, 2018 | 11:39 PM
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Have you replaced the rubber hose? Internal failure is possible which can result in the hose acting like a check valve and not allowing full release.
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 07:42 AM
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I checked to make sure it wasn't acting as such and it seemed fine. It's the only part I haven't replaced so I may go ahead and do it. For what it's worth, that caliper/hub is running 30-40 degrees hotter than the other side after driving. So there has got to be friction somewhere.
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 08:00 AM
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Check the wheel to make sure it wasn't damaged/warped by the incident. I had a similar problem occur on an old Mercedes and it frikkin' near killed me. Lesson Learned: Always use NEW caliper bolts.
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 10:57 AM
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Default could rotor be warped or sticking piston in new caliper.

Warped and dragging . My rwd had the pistons sticking on fronts after brake job
due to pistons absorbing moisture when exposed then pushed back in during brake job then sticking intermittently. Both sides had to replace with rebuilt calipers .
They heated up my wheels so bad you could get a severe burn . Ruined my wheel bearings . Converted them to centrics so rotor could be changed without disturbing wheel bearing and one use nut . I need to change all my brake fluid and lines on next brake job . When you press that piston back in it really dirtys up fluid . I would change that line on your troubled side.
I do use antiseize on cal bolts but I torque them on good . And I'm not in salt country .
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 10:58 AM
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Yeah, I'm pretty sure another new set of hubs and a new brake line are in my future.
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 11:34 AM
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are you sure the new caliper is releasing the pads? Sounds very similar to caliper sticking issues. Either that, or the hub is toast and is heating up due to friction.
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 11:35 AM
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Here's an idea, you can get a IR thermometer and measure different parts of the wheel well to help you pinpoint where exactly the source of the heat is.
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 11:37 AM
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I'd go out and warm it up then jack it up and see what's hanging up.
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 650NutKase
Here's an idea, you can get a IR thermometer and measure different parts of the wheel well to help you pinpoint where exactly the source of the heat is.
Did that. That's what led me to the caliper/hub
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