Hey guys, I drive a 2005 F150 XL Regular Cab 8" Bed 5.4L V8 4x4. This was a work truck, and power windows are a "luxury". But today, now that it's a daily driver, it's become a bit of a pain whenever I need to roll down the passenger window or when it's raining and it would simply be easier to be hands-free. I'm curious how much would be involved in the ways of effort and money into upgrading my manual windows to power windows, and possibly power locks as well. I will be entirely replacing my passenger door in the near future, so it would likely be easiest to do this while I already have it apart.
I did search the forum for a similar topic, but I did not find it, if I missed an already existing discussion please point me in the right direction.
Thanks,
Andrew

 

I started working on a power window conversion to my 2008 XL Extended Cab about a month ago. Found some of our gen extended cab trucks at the local wreckers and pulled both rear half door window regulators and guides, the driver door window regulator, and a passenger door power lock actuator.

I also found the part of the driver door bezel which holds the master switch and wired all the parts I have so far up to that, so I have power rear windows, a power driver window, and a power passenger door lock. Still need to get a door lock actuator for the driver door, but that's not that big of an issue as...I use that anyway. It's nice to unlock the door for passengers without having to lean across.

I suppose to do a proper full conversion you would want to find find replacement door panels for the doors and have switches on them all, but I'm going to live with just having switches for the windows on my driver door, and finding replacement door panels for the two front doors so you can unlock from either side. I had to run a couple of wires from the fuse box in the passenger side foot well to the master switch, and then wires from the switches out to each door. Got that stuff done over a weekend.

The master switch is currently just sitting in the door pocket of my driver window though, so it's just a bit of a pain to lean down and hit the switches.

 

 

Haha thanks! I was thinking about doing a modification write-up and either start a thread or continue one of the existing ones but, as with car projects, I got sucked into the actual work and didn't take too many photos. I might put together a write-up with some parts lists and suggestions now that you mention it though...

 

Andrew,

See my post just above yours.
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/new-guy...-locks-423296/

I have successfully done the power windows but not the locks yet.

 

Awkward,
Please tell me how you wired the power lock to the switch. You are using the factory switches correct? I was just in the garage 5 minutes ago pulling my remaining hairs out trying to figure it out. Thanks, Dave

 

Ah, yeah that was one part that took a bit of tinkering. The door lock switches are single-pole double-throw switches so they can't power the locks directly as the lock actuators need the signals flip flopped on the lines. I needed to find 2x 5-pin automotive relays (luckily I had 2 lying around) to do the switching control, and used the switch as the signal for the relays. Note: 4 pin relays won't work as you need the 5th pin to be able to swap the GND and PWR signals to the locks.

It's wired it like this diagram, and I currently just have the 2 relays as part of my wiring harness/bundle.

 

I looked at the diagram and am more confused than when I started. Could you do a drawing or something to show the full diagram? Do you need two relays for each door or switch?
I THINK I am reading it like this:
1. 30 to lock actuator from each relay
2. Ground I got but 87a on both is also grounded?
3. 87 on each to power and then where else?
4. 86 on upper would go to one of the two signal wires on the switch, 85 on the lower.
Is that reading it right?

How do you get the signal to the passenger door from the driver switch?

Sorry but wiring, aside from bodywork, is my weakest link. I really should have paid attention in auto shop in the 80's!

Thanks,
Dave

 

Rob,
I wired mine up like your diagram and get nothing. An
y ideas?

 

Dave, the drawing I linked is actually slightly different from how I wired, but it looks like functionally it should be the same. I'm also not great at electrical so I found the diagram a little more confusing to keep track of than how I did my wiring.

TL;DR at end.

I broke mine down like this:

Starting from the switch, it basically has 3 connections and 3 positions. I connect power to my input position. If you don't actuate the switch, no power goes out either of the outputs. If you rock it one way (say the LOCK position), it will send power out one of the output lines (LOCK wire), and if you rock it the other way (UNLOCK position), it will send power out the other output wire (UNLOCK wire). So now that we have that sorted we can ignore the switch itself and just think about the 2 signal wires, a LOCK signal, and an UNLOCK signal, each of which will gets 12V when you rock the switch in the corresponding position.

On to the relays; for a single 5 pin relay (let's consider the relay handling locking), pins 85 and 86 are the signal pins. Let's call 86 the ground pin, so we connect that to a chassis ground somewhere. That makes 85 the signal pin, so we use the LOCK signal wire from the switch and connect it to pin 85 of the LOCK relay. When we rock the switch to LOCK, 12V gets sent to pin 85, and since we grounded pin 86, the relay (LOCK relay) will actuate. Now we can use the other relay and hook them up the same way, ground pin 86, but use the UNLOCK signal wire for pin 85. Now this relay (UNLOCK relay) will actuate). So at this point we've connected the switch to send appropriate signals out it's wires, and two different relays, a LOCK relay, and an UNLOCK relay, which will actuate when it's appropriate signal line is given 12V.

Now on to the output/control half of the 5-pin relay. With a 5-pin relay, pins 30, 87a, and 87 make up the switched half of the relay. Pins 87a and 87 make up a pair of normally closed and normally opened circuits with respect to pin 30. When pins 85 and 86 don't receive a signal, pin 87a is connected to pin 30, and when they do receive a signal, pin 87a gets disconnected and pin 87 gets connected to pin 30. *The lock actuators for our trucks will actuate one way when (pos) is connected to one wire and (neg) to the other, and will actuate the other way when the wires are switched.*

So we connect one wire from the actuator and to the LOCK RELAY pin 30, and the other wire from from the actuator to the UNLOCK RELAY pin 30. We take pin 87a of both relays, which is the normally closed circuit, and connect it to ground. We then take pin 87 from both relays and connect it to 12V power (you'll want to connect this to UNSWITCHED/ALWAYS ON power so the button works when the car is off). This means that when no signal is sent to either relay, the actuator is grounded on both ends.

If we send a LOCK signal from the switch, the LOCK RELAY will switch its pin 30 connection from the grounded pin 87a and instead connect it to the powered pin 87, so the actuator will move in the lock position. If instead we send the UNLOCK signal from the switch, the UNLOCK RELAY will switch its pin 30 connection away from grounded pin 87a and connect to powered pin 87. Basically the wires on the actuator can get flipped between (+)/(-) and (-)/(+).

TL;DR:
Lock rocker switch takes 1 input wire and connects it to one of 2 output wires, depending on which side you rock the switch.
Connect 12V always on to the input wire. The 2 remaining wires are now your output signals, one LOCK signal and one UNLOCK signal.

Pins 85 and 86 are signal wires, connect one to ground and one to 12V to actuate the relay.
Wire LOCK relay with the LOCK signal wire and UNLOCK relay with the UNLOCK signal wire.

Pin 87a is a normally closed circuit relative to pin 30 (connected when no signal is sent to 85/86). Pin 87 is a normally open circuit relative to pin 30 (connected when signal is sent to 85/86).
Connect one actuator wire to LOCK relay pin 30 and one to the other UNLOCK relay pin 30. Connect 87a from both relays to GND and 87 from both relays to 12V always on.