ducktapediciple

I have a 2004 F150 with the "oh-so-beloved" 5.4 Triton. The problem started with a bad cam phaser. So far I have replaced the phaser, changed vct solenoids, re-timed the engine, changed timing chain guides, changed the coils, changed a camshaft sensor, hollowed out the front two catalytic converters and removed the back two. It will crank and idle fine. Runs decent. Until it gets warmed up. Then it starts missing and stalling. Code reads "camshaft position sensor bank one over retard". Bank one (passenger side, right?) has the new phaser and cam position sensor. I am stumped and ready to quit. Any ideas, anyone?

BadFish523

What brand phaser was put in it? Were any of the chain guides broken? Have you changed the VCT solenoids? What is your oil pressure at hot idle? Usually when doing timing it is recommended that ALL the timing components are do at once.

ducktapediciple

I don't remember the brand of phaser. I found it on Amazon, and chose it based on positive reviews. The chain guides were indeed broken, that's why I changed them. I have changed the solenoids as well. I don't know the exact oil pressure, but the in-dash system check says oil pressure ok...

jwdaniels

For the oil pressure you can not go by the gauge in the dash. The oil sender in the truck is basically just an on off switch, it doesn't actually read pressure. If there is enough pressure to turn the switch on the gauge in the dash will look like there is lots of pressure but doesnt mean you have proper oil pressure in a hot idle situation. I would manually measure the oil pressure with a gauge and then go from there.

BadFish523

ONLY OEM phasers! Almost all aftermarket phasers are known to fail. If your guides were broken did you drop the oil pan and remove the pieces? If not they will clog the pickup tube and you will have low oil pressure causing the phasers to not work properly. What brand of VCT solenoids were put in? Again ONLY OEM is recommended for these. Did you put new tensioners in while you were doing timing? The tensioners are also a common cause of timing problems as the seals blow out and you lose oil pressure. As you can see the whole timing system problem stems from low oil pressure with many causes. I would recommend you buy or borrow a mechanical oil pressure gauge and hook it up to get a real oil pressure reading while at hot idle. As stated the gauge on your dash reads right in the middle if you have 7psi. 7 is not enough to run the timing system. 20psi to 15psi is about what you need preferably 20. Does it make the famous cam phaser "clack" when warmed up?

Summers22

iTrader: (2)

Both phasers should have been replaced with Motorcraft......as well as all other parts besides the oil pump in which case Melling is fine.

Summers22

iTrader: (2)

Oh and if you decide to set it on fire, please video it and post it here.

redfishtd

If you use either aftermarket vcts or phasors you are shooting yourself in the foot .
There is a reason oems are expensive, these parts work hard . clean your system, keep oil changed often, use syn . It is the combustion dirt in the oil that is causing the problem --carbon . Yes the oil is still slippery but its dirty and black , it clogs screens and small passages so variable timing doesn't work then --big surprise . Don't use extended oil change intervals .
Plastic tensioners on chains blow out seals and lower oil pressure then start whipping chains . Use metal ratcheting tensioners ,there are no seals to blow out . They hold chains until oil pressure builds up at start up . Use a better oil pump , lack of oil damages rollers and lash adjusters . So if your over 100k change those too .
use mc filters with a good anti drain back valve . I always prefill filter before I put it on , its messy but nice . If you hold pedal to floor it will not start and builds oil pressure .

And you thought changing the cam position sensor is going to fix this !Using aftermarket parts on this is like asking your cardiologist to use the cheapest heart parts .