Thinking about doing my OEM 20's black.

Question is if I do them with the center cap on, every time I rotate tires when I break that center cap off isn't my finish going to get messed up?

Is it better to paint the wheel without the center cap, and plastidip the center cap separately? If I did this, wouldn't the plastidip still get messed up when I remove/replace the center cap?

I rotate my tires every oil change, so this would be an issue (if it is?)

 

Do them separate and make sure your wheels are clean first. You'll probably need to touch it up form time to time.

 

I agree with the above, I've plastidipped a lot of wheels. Do them separately, put atleast 3-4 coats on them so they peel nice later. Use a wash and wax spray to keep them clean once they are done

 

It will definitely look better if you do them separate. You can do them together then scribe the line with a razor if you wish but, I'd do it separate.

I recently did all the plastics on my truck and I've done 4 different sets of wheels, a 4 wheeler, and.........as luck may have......I'm doing my Zero Turn as we speak!!!!

Listen, I'm a perfectionist when it comes to things like this. I've done paint work and ceramic applications my entire life. Point being, I want it to be done as professional as possible and will do all necessary steps to do so.

I've spoken with the engineers at plasti dip probably 10 times going over prep, application, and maintenance techniques. They all agree, and I practice this religiously with plasti dip, wrapping all edges.

So, when you do your wheels and center cap, if you want the finish as durable as possible and most resistant to premature peeling, spray around any edges onto the back surface.

I would maybe apply 2 coats to the back sides of the wheels (atleast the areas where you could wrap to), and 2 coats to the backs of the center caps.

Keep in mind, I always do 5-6 coats, per manufacturers recommendations. So, 2 coats to back, 4 to front, 1 more to back, and final on front. Ideally, if you can work it out, you can coat the front and wrap the edges all at the same time. This way, you dont have to coat sides separately. Thats what I did with all the plastics. Hence the reason I removed everything. This way, if the edges get nicked, it's not just gonna run away peeling.

Scobar is right about maintenance products. Best I've seen is to wait till the next day after final coat, soak the **** out of it with Eagle One Nano spray wax and wipe. Do this twice. After that, do it when you want to treat or clean.

I have used many, many spray waxes, and I like a good number of different ones. However, the Nano wax seems to work best on plastics and leaves no streaks or residue and makes it smooth like the paint so the dip doesnt "drag" when wiped over.

I've actually brought the subject of the the Dip engineers several times as they have no product they manufacture or recommend to seal or maintain the dip.

The Nano wax is different than most, I don't know the specifics but, It has many applications as prescribed by eagle one, not just auto paint. It's suggested to use on shower doors and surrounds, hard wood floors ( which I've done, looks great, and you can slide 0-60 like to other!!!) outdoor plastic furniture, and others which I dont remember at the moment. I do assure you, the minute you apply it, you will tell the difference in smoothness, porosity, and sheen.

Hope this helps and iif I can be of assistance, please let me know.

 

Oh, great trick for masking tires, get a deck of cards or note cards and slide them in between the bead and rim. works great, no cutting, and reusable.

 

thanks guys, I think I"ll do this next weekend

 

I agree with the others, do them separate. My wheels that have a black plastidip base (3 coats) and 2 coats of rustoleum peelcoat graphite are just now showing chips that need to be touched up from time to time. I use Turtle Way ICE spraywax to clean them and it does an amazing job.