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phaser help....

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Old Oct 31, 2015 | 06:19 PM
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Default phaser help....

I have a 2005 5.4 V3. that i just tore down to do the timing and phasers. I have searched everywhere and can't find an answer to what to do if the cam moves after pulling it apart. I marked the left phaser but when I pulled the timing chain it snapped to the left. How do I get it back to where it should be so I can time the engine correctly. Thanks for the help in advanced.
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Old Oct 31, 2015 | 06:57 PM
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hit you tube ... there are some great vids of this process... good luck
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Old Oct 31, 2015 | 06:58 PM
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A little cam movement will be ok, take a look in my pic albums and find the one listed as Cam Lobe position. It will have a pic of both banks and the direction the cam lobes should face as well as the timing mark on the harmonic balancer. If you had it timed before you started disconnecting the chains, it shouldn't be that bad. Line up the colored links at the crank sprocket and at the phasers then use a pair of vice grips on a non journaled part of the cam (usually right behind where the phaser goes) and try to put the phaser on. If you have to turn the cam a little for the phaser to go on, that's ok, I had to do that as well. Once you have the phasers on and the colored links lined up properly, hold the vice grips tight so that you can do the proper torque on the phaser bolt. That will help when getting the extra turn on the bolt after the torque. Remember, do not reuse the old phaser bolt, they are torque to yeild and stretch when installed properly so use new ones. Once the phasers and chains are installed, tighten everything down and turn the crank with a wrench or socket a full revolution to make sure there is no binding or even valve to piston contact. After everything is put back together, before starting it, hold the gas pedal down and crank 4 or 5 times for about 10-15 seconds each time so that oil pressure will build up in the tensioners. Gas pedal down will prevent the engine from starting. This will help to make sure that you don't jump a tooth on the timing. And as always, I remind everyone to not forget the reluctor ring that goes in front of the crank sprocket, forget that and you are taking it all apart again. I almost forgot mine. Good luck.
Tom
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Old Oct 31, 2015 | 10:22 PM
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Thanks for the feedback it is greatly appreciated. I had a ford mechanic that my wife knows stop by and ease by panic. I have to order a new phaser to install a lock out since one was almost split two. Tried getting a dorman replacement to put the livernoise lockout in but it will not fit because the internal design is different. Will need to call them Monday to determine which phaser to purchase. Once I get that than the buildup will continue. hopefully easier than the tare down. Was told I will be able to roll the upper cams back once I got to put the chain on and everything should be good. Thanks again.
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 12:31 AM
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Good luck, especially if you are using the Dorman phasers instead of OEM.
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 01:48 PM
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It's your truck and your money, but PLEASE do some research on the Dorman phasers... Seems a lot are failing on people in the 5-10k mark.
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 09:48 PM
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I understand the issues with the doorman phasers. I will be replacing it with an OEM phaser and the livernoise lockouts. I have one lockout already installed in the original phaser that was still good. Will try to get my hands on OEM this week. Spent the day scrubbing down parts. Nearly 100K equals lots of crud, will be nice putting clean parts back in.
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 09:17 PM
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I just wanted to stop in and say thanks. I have not been a member for long but I have been lurking for years. Just completed, timing chains, guides, tensioners, lievernoise lockouts, plugs, coils and all gaskets, plus new brakes and rotors all the way around. Took me about a good 36 hrs total. Cranked it up and was scared at first, ran rough for a sec or two but corrected soon after, probably all the fluid from the plug change. Had 2 engine codes but after looking them up, noticed I missed two plugs, Once connected and codes cleared, truck runs great, better than new. This job was a little donating but can be done with patientce and it beats paying a dealer the ridicules amount of money they charge. Thanks again and I look forward to hearing more from everyone around here.


2005 F150 Screw, Lariat, (95K) Wedgwood metallic two tone.
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Old Nov 6, 2015 | 12:01 AM
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Good job, any pics or videos of the engine running, I love to hear one of these engines running smooth.

Tom
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