I've never really paid any attention at startup, but now my truck lives outside all the time and in the morning the coolant temperature is always 10-15 degrees warmer than the oil temp. I would think they would be the same before I turn the key. Is there a way to check to see if it is the tuner or sending unit that is bad? Not too big a deal except that I now tow alot and need accurate data. Thanks

 

I don't know much but its been debated that the oil temp really doesn't mean much on these engines . Sensor usually can't be linear ,meaning they are more accurate at certain levels than others . Coolant temp not important at low end near 40-50 degrees but very important from say 140 to 240 degrees .Analog meters are the same they have a sweet spot usually mid range . I don't know if this fits your question ,I just started it off . Me I would test my system to see if Engine coolant temp within 5 -10 degrees with an external source . Now others can chime in with their expertise .. Some guys have gotten oil pans without oil temp fitting and it only shows up in winter just hanging . Some have fixed it to oil pan .
I more worry about transmission temp than oil temp .Anything over 200f is worry some . I tow heavy loads but I tied temp gauge to trans cooler and I keep my eye on it in summer .I have drain type pan and I change 4-5 quarts out every week till I go thru 20 quarts of mercon v . Towing requires a change every 40 to 50 k . Just my two cents .Oil changed every 5k or 4 months keep her clean .I run marvel m oil 1 quart . Every other oil change a motor flush --only use mc filter .Now at 198k .

 

Thanks Redfish, the trans temps have been good regardless of towing, but it's all flatlands where I live. I knew the oil pressure was just an on off switch, but didn't know the temp sending unit was not accurate either. I just get a little worried when I see oil temperature in the 210-215 towing in the summer.

 

How did you determine 'oil temperature'? Our trucks have no PID for 'oil temperature' in Degrees units, only Volts. You mentioned 'tuner'. If you Are getting Oil Temperature from OBDII via your 'tuner', I would have serious doubts about its conversion from volts to degrees.

I spent lots of time developing an acceptable formula to straighten out the 'screwy' 'lopsided' bell curve from the oil temperature sensor votage data points. It took a crazy four part (or quad) 'cubic spline polynomial function to accurately fit the temperature curve. The Torque Pro dashboard and all custom PID formulas for various temperatures gauges are posted here:

https://www.f150forum.com/f4/torque-...1/#post5339202

The formulas work very well between below 32 degrees up to 240 or so. I went out this morning (fairly cool for San Antonio, Texas - dipped to 38º at sunrise), and captured the screen below before startup her up. All my temps are within a very few degrees.





Interesting ... The PCM calculates, and presents at PID 1624, CHT temperature (normalized). It has to be calculated from CHT sensor volts at PID 1685 --- (that is ONLY available source for oil temperature). From that, it calculates engine coolant temperature. Both CHT Normalized - and ECT are very accurate and tract actual temperatures very well - as can be seen in the above screen. How, I'll never know.

In the linked dashboard - I created a gauge that 'alternates' between displaying CHT volts & CHT Temp (calculated). After warmup - it runs with 'normalized', however much more dynamic than CHT_N. Heavy acceleration drives CHT up promptly, and CHT_N lags behind coming up and drifting back down.

However, the PCM performs a 're-calibration' procedure on the CHT sensor at EACH startup. It seems to incrementally output voltages from lowest point to highest point over about 5 minutes ---- then stabilizes and my reads just like the CHT normalized.

CAT Mid Bed Temp is WAY off - but that runs around 1350 to 1400º normal operating temperature, so maybe that is tolerable.

 

Wow, thanks for all the great info. Makes me mad though that I bought the tuner for both performance, but also data and it's all bogus. Shame on me for not reading more before I bought it, but I'm not sure why all these tuner companies even add these "features" that are completely useless.

I due love the performance I got, but still frustrated.

 

Well, in your tuner's defense ...

Frankly, I don't see how any Scanner company can venture outside the parameters (PIDs) that are 'quote' standardized or mandated and produce an economically viable product. Basically -that's why- the first hundred and fifty PIDs, all below number 200 are all that most will support. Outside those, there are SO MANY variations between vehicle makes / models / and configurations. I have reported OFTEN that I have found PIDs that are supported on my '04 Lariat 5.4L (assembled in the Dallas Plant) that do NOT work on an identical vehicle manufactured in the Toranto CA assembly plant.

EOT is a good example. It shows up several places (even within Ford's lineup).

My Truck is at: PID 16AF , and reads in volts from 0 to 5. Takes one hell of a bitchy equation to get a decent temp readout from the voltage output

I understand, but can't check out or verify...

Ecoboost - PID 2101 - units read unknown
Powerstroke - PID 1310 - in degrees - formula unknown

And who knows how many others. I can see that different sensor part numbers could work / read differently. So I supposed they would each need different routines in OBDII - but it seems that FORD (and all manufacturers) could standardize on a port number and unit of measurement. BUT THEY DON'T.

So bottom line - don't convict your reader. This explains why I think Torque Pro is so COOL, and INTUITIVE. If you can find the port number and figure out the units (kpa, psi, InHg, degrees, volts or whatever), you can create a formula and attach it to any kind of gauge that you want to represent the value.