Started the timing chains today. Didn’t find any broken components. Looks like everything is intact. Can someone take a look and see if I’m missing something? Nothing was obvious to me. Thanks again for all the help so far! Tried to put the crank keyway straight up before i took pictures. Looks like the dot isn’t quite at the bottom. Ignore the orange link on the chain. Thats from when I replaced the bank 2 phaser.

 

The key on the crank should be at more like 10 o clock to put the dot at 6 o clock but it doesn't really matter, where you have it will work fine to remove the chains and then line up the colored links on the new chains with the phaser marks and crank marks.
good that there's no pieces of guide missing but you might still want to drop the pan and make sure someone didn't replace the guides previously and neglect to clean it out. I didn't go back to look at the backstory of your project....

 

Original owner till 60,000 ish miles.
guy i bought it from, 60,000 till 135,000.
me. Maybe 100 miles on it.

guy i bought it from said he never had internal engine work done. Just some frame patches, and a new alternator.

Based on a visual inspection. Nothing looks out of sorts. Nothing that would cause the 345 and 349 codes. I’ll replace everything tonight, along with a new mellings pump. At least i’ll know going forward all that is new. I’m afraid this will not fix my codes though. We shall see.

 

I this rubbing normal?

 

I don't know what to think about the 'rubbing' - especially with chain guides NOT broken. But I notice SOMETHING ELSE that I would like to know the answer to.

THE COLOR OF THE RTV BETWEEN THE HEAD AND BLOCK is a different color (Black - or normal) on Bank1, and Red (non factory) on Bank 2.

If OP has not torn it down yet, I would like to see an accurate COUNT of chain links both ways to determine if it was in time on bank 2. That could resolve the P0345 / P0349 codes once and for all - even after swapping the Phaser. //// Count links (both directions) there MUST be 30 links counting from the crankshaft dot (NOT INCLUDING THE ONE STRADDLING THE DOT), and counting all the way up to the timing mark on the Phaser. This works on both banks.

 

Thanks Roadblock007 for pointing out the rub marks on the oil pump. There were also some on the front cover in the same area.
Finished the timing job today. Sorry torqued. I didn’t see your reply till after I replaced the chains. I also noticed the red sealant and thought it was odd. It didn’t appear the chains had ever been replaced. The sealant may have been from a previous oil pan gasket repair? Not really sure.
The driver side tensioner seemed okay (i could compress it) but thats where the rubbing was. The passenger side tensioner however, was completly frozen. Couldn’t compress it at all after removal. Everything has been replaced.
I even did the plugs since I was in that far. Friend of mine has the OTC tool. All came out with no breakage.
Started it today. No driving yet.
Fired right up. Nice and smooth.
345 and 349 are gone!
0446 is still there.
Pulled the canister assembly out. Checked the valve direct to the battery. Opens as it should. Gave the red/yellow and purple/white wires a few hard tugs. No breaks. Checked for 12v and the vent valve and purge valve connectors with the key on. All good. Replaced the vent valve with a brand new one and a new gas cap. Cleared codes. Came right back. Those parts got returned.
Installed original parts. I’ll check continuity tomorrow from the PCM to the vent valve on the purple/white wire. Any other ideas what may be causing 0446?
Also, found the two wires in the picture just hanging there. Any idea what those are supposed to be for?
thanks everyone for all the help!

 

If you use Torque Pro - or are able to stipulate PIDs - .this might help

 

Those dangling wires should go to the speed sensor on top of the rear differential.