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2004 - 2008 Ford F150 General discussion on the 2004 - 2008 Ford F150 truck.

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Old Mar 16, 2021 | 11:00 PM
  #11  
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TDC on #1 is only part of the problem. Just because it is at TDC on number one tells you _nothing_ about whether the single colored link of the chain - or chain(s) for that matter - are straddling the Crank Dot. (Plus it's behind the tone ring even if you drop the pan and look from the bottom. Then there is the issue of the marks on the chains NOT ligning up but ONCE every 61 revolutions of the engine. (The colored links seem to 'WALK' due to the crank having 21 teeth, Phasers having 42 teeth (2 to 1), but the chains have 61 links which is not divisible by either. (It's a mathematical 'least multiples' situation'.

Having said all that --- here is the least expensive red-neck method to get a 'semi' accurate idea. NOT FOOLPROOF - but a reasonable set of odds that only ONE side is off by a tooth or two.

If you remove both valve covers and all spark plugs, you could rotate the engine slowly watching colored chain links (assuming chains have colored links - which they would if they have been replaced.) Each revolution the colored links will move a little bit with respect to the Phaser "L" and "R" marks. You don't care which ("L" or "R"), but within 61 revolutions the two colored links on both chains will come up straddling either the "L" or "R". At that instant - if it is timed correctly- Chain on both banks would be straddling the timing mark ("L" on one side, and "R" on the other side. If Bank 2 is not lined at that point, you could tell which way it would need to be moved one or two teeth.

The IMPORTANT thing is: The colored links walk a little bit each revolution. BUT both MUST walk the same amount. Therefore, if you go to the trouble to go for -UP TO- 61 revolutions, at least you would know if left and right banks were in sync. Not necessarily if BOTH were off by the same amount. But we are not suspecting Bank 1 is off. There is NO DTC on that side.

Just a shade tree / red-neck method. But I would do it before opening up the front cover.

Last edited by F150Torqued; Mar 16, 2021 at 11:02 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 10:40 AM
  #12  
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Talked the the previous owner yesterday. He bought the truck from the original owner at 60,000 miles. He had it for the duration of its life until i got it. He never had any internal engine work done. Also, none of the bolts on the front look like they’ve been disturbed. Except the obviously new alternator. The check engine light came on in October last year and he hasn’t driven it since then. When I bought it I drove it to my house about 10 minutes away and it had very little power and the codes i’m dealing with plus the misfires. Fixed the misfires. Replaced the above parts. It test drives fine, stumbles a bit when pulling up to a stop sign or slowing down when turning on a different street. Not currently driving the truck until I get these codes taken care of. They show up on my app as pending codes not stored ones. Better scanner coming tonight. I will try to grt some real data for you guys. Anything specific that will help diagnose?
Unless the chain on bank 2 stretched or jumped a tooth on its own I don’t have any reason to believe someone was in there before me. I have to find the pinout for the PCM (unless someone on here knows) I’d like to trace the wires from the cam sensor back to the PCM. Possible corroded or broken wire. Just a guess.
Would I be expierencing these codes with a failed tensioner on the bank 2 chain?
I’m going to check the oil pressure with a gauge tonight. I would assume if I had bad pressure the bank 2 would be ok since it gets the pressure first and i would have errors on bank 1. Thanks for the help so far!

Last edited by BlackTuscany; Mar 17, 2021 at 10:46 AM.
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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 12:07 PM
  #13  
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@BlackTuscany excellent, informative, helpful post.

In my opinion, it is very unlikely one of these engines will jump a tooth. Might be possible,but I can't imagine it shy of having lot of chain rattle. (Many have chain rattle for miles-miles and never jump time.)

Doubtful you have an oil pressure issue that ONLY effects bank 2. True, Bank 2 is first served. I see no logical way a tensioner could produce P0340 or P0345.

An open wire or poor connection on the CPS sensor circuit - (Even a trace or cold solder joint within PCM) -could certainly produce your symptoms. There are a number of adjustments, and default values selected by the PCM to accommodate failures while keeping going. They will almost always show up in loss of power / performance. See attached diagrams.

As for - scanner reader - what kind scanner do you have coming ? If it's Torque Pro, yephie - I may be able to help.
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Old Mar 30, 2021 | 11:56 PM
  #14  
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Took some time and welded on my rockers and cab corners. Finall got back to the engine today. Got some scanner info. Also got a new code today. P0171. THis was the first day i drove it for a whole day. I’ll post some pictures of the codes, fuel trims at idle and at higher rpm. May be helpful with the lean code.
and oddly enough, the scanner wouldn’t read any cam timing info. Swapped the cam sensor with another new one i had. Same codes. Pulled the B+alternator wire off the battery. No change in 345 and 349. Oil pressure gauge came today so I’ll have that info soon.


Fuel trim at idle


Fuel trim at raised idle.


Vct info


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Old Apr 1, 2021 | 07:34 PM
  #15  
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Forgot to add that i traced the wiring from the cam sensor back to the pcm. All good.
Am I just looking at a failed tensioner on the bank 2 side that is not keeping the chain tight enough so it’s not seeing the phaser at the proper time but still letting it run? Any thoughts on the lean code? That one is new.
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Old Apr 3, 2021 | 12:31 AM
  #16  
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That one isn't 'new'. It was listed at the top of your list in post #1. Unfortunately - it is logically supportive of two of the other codes you have (P0345 and P0349). Variable cam timing on this engine only "ADDS" and "REMOVES' retard. The effect of Retard reduces breathing of fresh air by the cylinders on that bank. If the cam is not staying in time - P0345 and P0349 are a couple of the likely codes for that fault. "IF" Bank 2 is not ingesting as much air as Bank 1, the PCM will add more fuel to Bank 1 (ie: trying to correct what appears to be a lean condition on that bank because it is getting MORE air than the faulty one).

Of course - a lean condition on bank 1 can (by itself) be the result of other things - most commonly a vacuum leak effecting that bank only or perhaps an under-delivering injector on that side. Things like that can be trouble shot independently and eliminated. You might try a propane torch (unlit of course) blown around / under intake manifold, injector bases, vacuum lines while LIVE MONITORING fuel trims. If you hit a vacuum leak, fuel trim will _slam_ very negative. You could remove plugs and inspect for white chalky tip for very lean cylinder - or move all four to the other side as a test.

A faulty or failed or failing tensioner itself will not generate those 345 or 349 codes ----- unless it allowed the cam chain to be so loose that it jumped a tooth. THAT is a tough one. There is 'virtually' no way to even get an idea if chain timing is off without removing the timing cover and 're-timing' it. Does it have colored chain links? If it does - a timing job might have been done before - increasing that possibility. I don't think they have colored links from the factory. If it has colored links (and you have enough patience), you can rotate the engine enough times for the colored links to come up properly on the Phaser. (Max of 61 revolutions). When it does - the colored links would HAVE to come up aligned with timing marks on BOTH phasers for it to be in time.
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Old Apr 3, 2021 | 05:31 AM
  #17  
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After replacing the phaser, cam sensor, and solonoid for bank 2 I’m not sure what 345 and 349 are pointing me to. I’ve ruled out the alternator being the culprit. I’ve checked the wiring. Swapped out the cam sensor. Doubtful that the chain actually jumped a tooth. Possbily bought a bad vct solonoid? I can change that one out with another new one. I don’t have access to a scope. So I can’t watch the cam signals.
Not sure what to diagnose next.

Thanks Torqued for all your help.
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Old Apr 3, 2021 | 10:37 AM
  #18  
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^^^ Agree - doubtful that the chain jumped a tooth ------ but it remains a possibility based on the codes. Stay focused on the meaning of them and the _long_ list of things that could cause them.
P0345 = The PCM is saying that "early in a run cycle (during cranking) it does not detect the Phaser fingers in the right position." Several things can cause this - off a tooth being one. OR - Phaser not being advanced and locked on shutdown and therefore retarded on startup before oil pressure comes up. And of course, circuit problems including bad trace or component in PCM.

P0349 = The PCM is saying that "after startup, it doesn't reliably detect the Phaser fingers in the position where they should be". This can also be caused by several things - off a tooth being one. OR - oil pressure being insufficient to _HOLD_ Phaser steady in position causing the signal to 'jump around' so much as to 'confuse' the PCM as to position. And of course, circuit problems including bad trace or component in PCM.

I think it is 'important' that you are NOT getting a P0022 (over retarded). For THIS reason, I do not believe it is a bad VCT solenoid. That should NOT be so erratic as to simply confuse the PCM. You would 99% for sure get a timing code (P0022 or P0012) if the PCM could reliably detect Phaser position. I believe the failure is _HARD_, and the PCM is in a failure management mode -- not even attempting to do variable cam timing -- preventing other timing codes. There are other PIDs that indicates this, but you have to have a scanner that allows you to input custom PIDs to look at them.
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Old Apr 6, 2021 | 05:41 PM
  #19  
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Sounds like I may just have an oil pressure problem. Looks like I really am in for chains, tensioners, guides and a pump.
hopefully that clears up those problems.
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Old Apr 12, 2021 | 09:00 PM
  #20  
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Waiting for the timing set and oil pump to show up. But found my exhaust leak. Manifold is cracked and the back gasket is blown. Parts are on the way for that too.
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