Longtube headers install
I'm about to install some OBX longtubes this week on my 05 5.4 4x4 F150. I have installed longtubes on 96-04 mustangs dozens of times but never on a truck. Any advice from the guys that have done it?
I did the same LTs as you. Be prepared to lower the engine.
Also, REMOVE the studs from the block. And change them out, something with a hex head. Someone has the actually bolt needed if you search, I forgot where it was though.
I left my stock studs on, and I should of never done that. PITA to get the headers on with them still attached. If it wasn't for that, I would have saved hours. But I was too scared to take them out because I thought they would break off or get stripped...
Also, REMOVE the studs from the block. And change them out, something with a hex head. Someone has the actually bolt needed if you search, I forgot where it was though.
I left my stock studs on, and I should of never done that. PITA to get the headers on with them still attached. If it wasn't for that, I would have saved hours. But I was too scared to take them out because I thought they would break off or get stripped...
It's a pain in the ***! U need to remove the starter to access the bolts on the passenger side. buy a magnetic tray for all the bolts so u do lose any. There's next to no room on the passenger side due to the engine being offset to that side. Make sure u soak the manifold studs in pb blaster the night before and be carefull removing them, the tips can snap off easy! If they feel like they aren't going to break loose resoak for 30 min and try again. Some people remove the engine mount and jack it up to have better access to the passenger side, but I didn't and it just took a long time on that side. I used jack stands and a wheel chalk. U need to remove the wheel well guards. Removing the wheel well plastic guards isn't hard, just make sure u remove all plastic pins and bolts. U will need a shop light to see where the manifold bolts r. I forget what size bolts r in there? The manifold bolts also need to be retightened after the first time u do it, u won't have access to a couple after u reinstall the starter. I left my wheel well guards off for a few days, hit the bolts again and put them back on. I have had no issues with leaks, but I did use a non hardening sealent on both sides of the gaskets, I'll try to remember to repost with the name tomorrow. Good luck!
I don't know about those headers, but I didn't have to drop or raise my engine when I installed my Dynatech headers which came with new manifold bolts that r way better quality then stock. A couple bolts just wouldn't break loose, so I left them in after the tips snapped off.
I don't know about those headers, but I didn't have to drop or raise my engine when I installed my Dynatech headers which came with new manifold bolts that r way better quality then stock. A couple bolts just wouldn't break loose, so I left them in after the tips snapped off.
Last edited by $pitt04fx4; Feb 20, 2012 at 04:16 AM.
Thanks that's some good advice.
I plan on putting the truck in the air and removing the wheels and inner fenders tonight and spray down all the bolts then get hot on it in the morning. I'm sure it's not much harder then a mustang so I figure it will take me 3 hours tops.
Any more tips would be great.
I plan on putting the truck in the air and removing the wheels and inner fenders tonight and spray down all the bolts then get hot on it in the morning. I'm sure it's not much harder then a mustang so I figure it will take me 3 hours tops.
Any more tips would be great.
Thanks that's some good advice.
I plan on putting the truck in the air and removing the wheels and inner fenders tonight and spray down all the bolts then get hot on it in the morning. I'm sure it's not much harder then a mustang so I figure it will take me 3 hours tops.
Any more tips would be great.
I plan on putting the truck in the air and removing the wheels and inner fenders tonight and spray down all the bolts then get hot on it in the morning. I'm sure it's not much harder then a mustang so I figure it will take me 3 hours tops.
Any more tips would be great.
U will c what I mean by "pain in the ***". 3 hours would b outstanding performance on ur end! My pass side took 3 hours alone! I will b very impressed if u TKO it that fast! Again, Good Luck! It's a tough job!
I almost forgot, I had to cut a wrench in half, using a small length peice of conduit to extend the reach of the wrench to access some manifold bolts which were out of my reach. Had to use a vice to tighten the conduit around the wrench.
I'll post any other things I remember, if I do...
Last edited by $pitt04fx4; Feb 20, 2012 at 12:59 PM.
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Thanks that's some good advice.
I plan on putting the truck in the air and removing the wheels and inner fenders tonight and spray down all the bolts then get hot on it in the morning. I'm sure it's not much harder then a mustang so I figure it will take me 3 hours tops.
Any more tips would be great.
I plan on putting the truck in the air and removing the wheels and inner fenders tonight and spray down all the bolts then get hot on it in the morning. I'm sure it's not much harder then a mustang so I figure it will take me 3 hours tops.
Any more tips would be great.
The sealent I used on both sides of the manifold gaskets was> Permatex, sensor safe, high-temp rtv silicone gasket maker......It's a orange tube w/ white writing. Just don't put it on too thick.
Originally Posted by shadowrider
I'm about to install some OBX longtubes this week on my 05 5.4 4x4 F150. I have installed longtubes on 96-04 mustangs dozens of times but never on a truck. Any advice from the guys that have done it?

