Tow/haul does NOT apply brakes. Tow/Haul does let the engine downshift sooner to slow the vehicle, i.e. engine braking.

 

The 8000/800 would be more than enough, to be sure. My suspicion ( unconfirmed at this point, but a semi educated guess) is that the 10,000 uses 2.5 inch ball mounts, which is an unnecessary hassle if you dont actually need them. I'll look and get back to you.

Edit..... if this is the W/D assembly itself, and not the actual truck hitch youre looking at, the difference is probably the size of the spring bars. I think 10,000 would be significantly too stiff. I couldn't get those part numbers to go anywhere.

 

Well, my father in-law had, as far back as installed on his 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis (and likely before that) a Kelsey Brake Controller. Installed on his dashboard (he would screw it into the top of the dash...), it controlled the trailer's electric brakes. That's at least 23 years ago...

 

I typed wrong part Numbers
17001- http://www.curtmfg.com/part/17001
17002- http://www.curtmfg.com/part/17002

 

the tow/haul setting allows the transmission to work for me better, but should I still use it with the superchips tow program in there?

 

The difference is the size of the spring bars. I would go with the 8000/800. Dont run the chains any tighter than necessary for good vehicle stability and leveling.

Good question on the tow/haul. I dont know if that tuner affects transmission programming or just the engine. If it does carry modified trans. programming it probably only does it in normal mode. My guess is it would revert to factory programming in tow/haul mode. I cant imagine any reason not to continue to use t/h as before. The only thing I'm thinking is that if the tuner is carrying its own trans. programming, it will be like being in t/h regardless of switch position, although there will be some differences in operational parameters. Just figure out which one you like best.

 

You mentioned bring your truck in for servicing prior to this trip. I would replace the fluids with full synthetic fluids if you haven't considered it already.

 

Synthetic is good stuff. It can handle higher temps. without breaking down and losing shear strength. If you have a limited slip rear diff. it may require a friction modifier additive.

 

Your Ranger and 4.0 was way overloaded if you towed a trailer with a car on it for starters.

Second, trailer brake controllers have been around for decades, you not using one is from ignorance not because they were not around or not needed. They were just not factory installed. My 04 F150 has a towing package and no factory controller, I had to add it.

I can remember the brake controller in my dads Oldsmobile towing our TT when I was a kid and that's in the 1970's.

Just because you did something unsafe and illegal does not make it right, a good idea or a reason to suggest it to someone else. You are not just putting yourself in danger but everyone else on the road when you cannot stop your load in an emergency situation.

 

I had an 85 ranger I tower a tractor around town with, NO WAY I'd ever tow anything cept maybe a lawn mower 3000 miles with it!