Finally finished up my header installation project today. It was quite the headache as some of you might have noticed from my other thread but it was definitely worth it. I'm going to address a few points here that anyone looking to perform this job should be aware of, some are common sense, some are just that I didn't know what to expect.

PB Blaster or other penetrating catalyst - I used six cans of PB Blaster during the removal of all necessary parts for the install. I put it on bolts and nuts that probably didn't even need it to be better safe than sorry.

Helicoils - Might want to pick up a couple sets of these as well as a 21/64 drill bit and have a few reverse thread bits available to you as well. I ended up having to replace 6 of the 16 manifold studs that broke as soon as I put a wrench to them. You might have the same problem, so don't show up to the job with helicoils.

Splined sockets - These handy little devils proved their worth with removing the studs that were still easily removable. I took a cut off wheel and knocked the pointy part of the stud off then slipped the spline socket over and removed them very easily.

Propane torch - for the studs that I was able to remove easily, I also applied a fair amount of heat to them using a propane torch. It will save you a major headache to heat the stud for a while, apply PB Blaster to it, and repeat.

Patience - if you've read any of the other threads about this install job, you might have the idea that it's tedious work but easy to do (like I did). Be patient and get systematic about it, mark all bolts and nuts as you remove them not to confuse them, etc.

Extensions, swivels, etc - if you don't know how to use these bad boys, you will be a pro by the time you are done with this job. Putting the starter back on, I had 2 swivels hooked up to a 3", 6" and a 12" extension on a 3/8" drive ratchet just to reach it and be able to turn it.

Removing tires - some write-ups I've seen say no tire removal necessary...I don't buy that. Unless you are a professional contortionist and work for Barnum and Bailey go ahead and pull those tires out. Remove the inner fender panels too.

Oil dipstick tube from HELL - If you're anything like me, you will quickly go impatient with the oil dipstick tube. I took the easy way out after a few hours of trying to find room to use a hammer and skinny screwdriver to tap at the base of it while using my imaginary third hand to wiggle it from the top to pull it loose. I cut the damn thing. And I used some AC hose and a couple hose clamps to keep it together as a temp fix while I wait for a new one to come in to the dealership for me...as well as when I muster up some patience to deal with it.

There's some other things I can't think of right now...I'll add to this post when they come to mind.

OVERALL - the headers are great. The truck sounds a lot better, seems to pick up a little better at WOT, they look sweet tucked up under the head, and of course I don't have a leaky exhaust manifold on the truck either. It was a monster of a task because of the little snags I ran into with the studs but it would be much easier to do a second time. Thanks to all the guys in my other thread for the helpful advice on this install. I'll be putting up a video clip of a cold start up sometime this week hopefully

 

That was a real nice read man. Sounds like you had tons of fun doing this! But yea after reading this I think if I ever decide to do this mod I'll let a shop do it for me haha.

 

I wouldn't be able to live with myself having a shop murder my wallet for this install. It was a pain in the **** for sure, but I like knowing that it's something I did as opposed to something I paid to have done.

 

I completly a gree with you on the satisfaction of doing yourself. Most rewarding feeling ever s doing a major engine repair and then turning the key and hearing it fire up and run great. i

 

I'd love to get some of those. I really need help bringing my 4.6 to life. Post up the results even if it's only of off the butt dyno.

 

Is ur engine a 5.4 or a 4.6? Sounds like a good build, can't wait to do this install one day!

 

I just had my engine replaced and I had the shop put new manifolds on too because I knew I had leaky ones... Guess if I plan on doing headers it'd be a good idea to do it soon because the removal of rusted/rotted studs doesnt sound too fun.

 

The headers definitely make a difference, they have about 80 miles on them now and even at idle the sound is much deeper and throatier. I'll get around to a dyno sometime in the near future, going to do an intake first and change out my muffler.
I have a 5.4.
I'd say go for it, if it fits your budget. The PITA that came along with the busted manifold studs can make you wanna roll the truck down a hill

 

Good luck after 14 months they leak.. iv had mine off two times for them leaking at the welds now im leaking again going to swap to long tube headers now and hope its better but i will never buy jba headers again for my 5.4l

 

Thanks for the encouragement. I'm hoping for the best, I've read some bad stories about them and some good stories about them, but I've read worse about some other brands. We'll see how it all pans out.