In this forum I read a lot about timing chain phasors and worn chains and guides. My truck is 2005 5.4 liter with 111,000 miles. I have owned it for 20K miles and change the oil every 5K. I have not seen any unusual debris in the drained oil. The engine does have a clattering sound but I never thought much about the noise until I started reading on this site.
1. Is there a mile or time replacement interval for the timing chain and or all of the chain components?
2. Is there an inspection that I need to do to determine if I need to change chain and chain components?

In the near term I am going to have the plugs changed, or do them myself, but this timing chain question is 2nd on my list.

Thanks and sorry if a past thread covered any of this.

 

I just went out and cold started the truck. There is no knocking sound. Only a slight ticking sound that is sustained while the engine is idling.

 

No real "interval"... there are people here North of 250k miles on original components, and I've personally seen the timing fail at 30k miles. All depends on quality of oil, cleanliness of oil, and OCI. "Ticking" you hear could be loose plugs, exhaust leak, lifters/followers, or even the injectors; impossible to diagnose virtually. Phasers typically produce a much more gutteral sound, bad tensioners produce a chain rattle upon start-up.

5k OCI on full synthetic is what I'd do, but only 3k on conventional or even semi-synthetic. I had my engine apart at 150k for timing job and aside from the broken parts, the engine was virtually spotless on a lifetime 3k OCI of Ford semi-syn, and when I had the pan off my X3 a month ago, its engine's internals were still aluminum silver at 155k and a 5k lifetime OCI on full synthetic. The Ford's issue was blown tensioner seals causing low oil pressure, not dirty/clogged orifices. It was a 2004, and I've heard that 2004 had one of the higher rates of tensioner failures.

Here's a primer on noises:

 

^^^^^^^ agreed . Don't do plugs until you have lisle extraction kit handy . Get sp 546 plugs and do a hospital clean job . Torque plugs in 25 to 28 foot pounds /replace all rubber boots ..You can do a better job than any shop if you do your home work .Plan on dismounting PCM on fire wall to get to 3 and 4 . . Put cardboard over hood latch or foam pad . buy several small extensions and tools at harbor freight /flexheads etc . .Take your time its good for another 60k .

 

Thanks for all the helpful comments. I do have the extraction tool on-hand. My SP 546 plugs are in the mail. I guess you would suggest Motorcraft rubber boots - WR6131? I need to acquire these. What does PCM stand for?

 

The PCM is the engine’s computer. You’ll need to remove it and its bracket on the firewall to gain access to plug #3 and 4.

 

I read a thread yesterday on this site. Does running a few tanks of fuel with Techron additive from Walmart or an equivalent gas conditioner do any good to reduce any carbon deposits around the spark plugs? I put some Berrymans in a fresh gas tank yesterday and decided to drive it on highway trip to work to try the theory.

 

I always do

 

I have not seen any suggested timing set change interval, I did it on my 05 at 120K as a preventative measure more than anything. Perhaps it was a waste of time and money but it made me feel alot better, especially after seeing how spotless the engine was inside, no crud, no buildup and hardly any wear on anything, including the guides. I really believe that is testament to my religious maintenance schedule. Full synthetic oil only with a good filter (Motorcraft or Mobil1) changed every 5,000 miles. If yours still sounds good and is running good Id say just keep up on oil changes and see how it goes. As for the plug change, follow the advice youve been given, some things have changed since I did my how-to including the newest updated plug.

 

You can most likely get the boots here https://www.onlinefordpartscatalog.com/ or at Ford Ports Giant.

I might add that short drive intervals can also affect things as well. I generally drive about 2-2.5 miles to and from work, and even the grocery store is 2.5-3 miles from where I live, only once a month do I typically drive for two hours on the highway. I did my timing job at 104,500 miles because I was getting the startup chain rattle for the last year. Engine had quite a bit of varnish. Now, when I drive home from work, I take the longer way, which takes about three as long to get home (instead of 5-7 minutes, it takes 15-20 minutes)

Up until this year, I was letting Wal-Mart do the oil changes, using cheap 5W20 Quaker State and Fram filters. Now I do the oil changes, and I use Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic High Mileage 5W30 (the stuff made from natural gas) with a Wix 51372XP filter. I do hope that the use of full synthetic and a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil will help clean some of that varnish up.