installing HID headlights?
In the spirit of Thanksgiving.. I will teach rather than insult. Let me just say, I know what I am talking about.. 
First, you are correct in your definition of what a relay does.. it's an electrically operated switch. But a relay does not connect a ballast to the battery as stated. It lies in-line with a wiring harness that connects both ballasts to the battery and an OEM power connector. It basically provides an outlet for the ballasts to gain their very brief ENORMOUS power consumption directly from the battery instead of the electrical system of the vehicle.
Second, you are thinking of the old style automotive relays which are about 1" - 1.5" square with typically three spade or prong posts underneath.. Correct? Well, then you are also correct. Older HID kits needed this.. HOWEVER, today's HID kit have built-in relays in the form of Solid State relays. Solid state relays are basically a form automotive relays that are really compact and do not have the bigger, moving, clicking parts that the automotive relay has.. Thus, removing the need of having the extra wiring nightmare that most end-users considered not "plug and play".. Also, let me add that early kits had a power input of 10 - 24v. This caused issues left and right when vehicles became more "power efficient", to counter this, manufacturers started making kits that are capable of igniting HIDS at 6 - 8v !! This is done by beefing up the internals in the ballasts to use less volts for the maximum power to the bulb. As you know, a ballast is just an "amplifier" for power..
If you have the chance to go to SEMA in Vegas.. (You need to find an automotive business to "sponsor" you to go.. Hell, where do you live? I might even put you on the employee list so you can attend..) I suggest you go! You will see the wondrous technological advancements being accomplished in the HID market. HIDS will eventually be obsolete to the new lighting move.. SMD LED.
First, you are correct in your definition of what a relay does.. it's an electrically operated switch. But a relay does not connect a ballast to the battery as stated. It lies in-line with a wiring harness that connects both ballasts to the battery and an OEM power connector. It basically provides an outlet for the ballasts to gain their very brief ENORMOUS power consumption directly from the battery instead of the electrical system of the vehicle.
Second, you are thinking of the old style automotive relays which are about 1" - 1.5" square with typically three spade or prong posts underneath.. Correct? Well, then you are also correct. Older HID kits needed this.. HOWEVER, today's HID kit have built-in relays in the form of Solid State relays. Solid state relays are basically a form automotive relays that are really compact and do not have the bigger, moving, clicking parts that the automotive relay has.. Thus, removing the need of having the extra wiring nightmare that most end-users considered not "plug and play".. Also, let me add that early kits had a power input of 10 - 24v. This caused issues left and right when vehicles became more "power efficient", to counter this, manufacturers started making kits that are capable of igniting HIDS at 6 - 8v !! This is done by beefing up the internals in the ballasts to use less volts for the maximum power to the bulb. As you know, a ballast is just an "amplifier" for power..
If you have the chance to go to SEMA in Vegas.. (You need to find an automotive business to "sponsor" you to go.. Hell, where do you live? I might even put you on the employee list so you can attend..) I suggest you go! You will see the wondrous technological advancements being accomplished in the HID market. HIDS will eventually be obsolete to the new lighting move.. SMD LED.
In the spirit of Thanksgiving.. I will teach rather than insult. Let me just say, I know what I am talking about.. 
First, you are correct in your definition of what a relay does.. it's an electrically operated switch. But a relay does not connect a ballast to the battery as stated. It lies in-line with a wiring harness that connects both ballasts to the battery and an OEM power connector. It basically provides an outlet for the ballasts to gain their very brief ENORMOUS power consumption directly from the battery instead of the electrical system of the vehicle.
Second, you are thinking of the old style automotive relays which are about 1" - 1.5" square with typically three spade or prong posts underneath.. Correct? Well, then you are also correct. Older HID kits needed this.. HOWEVER, today's HID kit have built-in relays in the form of Solid State relays. Solid state relays are basically a form automotive relays that are really compact and do not have the bigger, moving, clicking parts that the automotive relay has.. Thus, removing the need of having the extra wiring nightmare that most end-users considered not "plug and play".. Also, let me add that early kits had a power input of 10 - 24v. This caused issues left and right when vehicles became more "power efficient", to counter this, manufacturers started making kits that are capable of igniting HIDS at 6 - 8v !! This is done by beefing up the internals in the ballasts to use less volts for the maximum power to the bulb. As you know, a ballast is just an "amplifier" for power..
If you have the chance to go to SEMA in Vegas.. (You need to find an automotive business to "sponsor" you to go.. Hell, where do you live? I might even put you on the employee list so you can attend..) I suggest you go! You will see the wondrous technological advancements being accomplished in the HID market. HIDS will eventually be obsolete to the new lighting move.. SMD LED.
First, you are correct in your definition of what a relay does.. it's an electrically operated switch. But a relay does not connect a ballast to the battery as stated. It lies in-line with a wiring harness that connects both ballasts to the battery and an OEM power connector. It basically provides an outlet for the ballasts to gain their very brief ENORMOUS power consumption directly from the battery instead of the electrical system of the vehicle.
Second, you are thinking of the old style automotive relays which are about 1" - 1.5" square with typically three spade or prong posts underneath.. Correct? Well, then you are also correct. Older HID kits needed this.. HOWEVER, today's HID kit have built-in relays in the form of Solid State relays. Solid state relays are basically a form automotive relays that are really compact and do not have the bigger, moving, clicking parts that the automotive relay has.. Thus, removing the need of having the extra wiring nightmare that most end-users considered not "plug and play".. Also, let me add that early kits had a power input of 10 - 24v. This caused issues left and right when vehicles became more "power efficient", to counter this, manufacturers started making kits that are capable of igniting HIDS at 6 - 8v !! This is done by beefing up the internals in the ballasts to use less volts for the maximum power to the bulb. As you know, a ballast is just an "amplifier" for power..
If you have the chance to go to SEMA in Vegas.. (You need to find an automotive business to "sponsor" you to go.. Hell, where do you live? I might even put you on the employee list so you can attend..) I suggest you go! You will see the wondrous technological advancements being accomplished in the HID market. HIDS will eventually be obsolete to the new lighting move.. SMD LED.
i did not know however that they are making kits that use a lot less draw and dont need a relay, that's pretty usefull to know.
haha man how i would love to attend SEMA this year but i'm all the way in Georgia. about as far as it gets from it, staying in the U.S. that is.
i think there was just a miscommunication error. i was saying that an hid kit with a relay cannot be simply plug and play, there has to be some power wire running directly to the battery for it to have a relay, now more modern kits may have this relay hidden or built in to the wiring harness but irregardless it has to have a power wire running to the battery from it.
i did not know however that they are making kits that use a lot less draw and dont need a relay, that's pretty usefull to know.
haha man how i would love to attend SEMA this year but i'm all the way in Georgia. about as far as it gets from it, staying in the U.S. that is.
i did not know however that they are making kits that use a lot less draw and dont need a relay, that's pretty usefull to know.
haha man how i would love to attend SEMA this year but i'm all the way in Georgia. about as far as it gets from it, staying in the U.S. that is.
Probaly need to just contact the seller and get another kit. I just installed mine that I bought of of ebay and all I did was hook up the power wire to the battery, and grounded each ballast to the radiator support and the worked just fine. They come on right away and stay on.
DDMTUNING here...55W Bixenon slim digital ballasts in headlights with relay kit...and yes the High beams are incredible! Not like the cheap ones which have a little halogen bulb attached. And just put in 35W 9005 slim digital ballast kit in my fogs, no relay needed. looks perfect! Both sets are 5000k.
DDM...you can't beat the quality and price! I have at least one set in all 4 of my vehicles and in both my sportbikes. Flawless for years now.
DDM...you can't beat the quality and price! I have at least one set in all 4 of my vehicles and in both my sportbikes. Flawless for years now.
DDM kits are garbage. I have put MANY posts on here expressing the problems with them. The bulbs are plastic and bounce in the BULB housing, they fail to ignite reliably, they DO NOT stand behind their warranty without asking you to pay for the new bulbs until they can prove your claim of the problem, their tests (for defective bulbs) are a joke. They test them on a table with a battery and simple switch. They have tried to cheat me out of more money for warranty issues, and now wont even talk to me until I REPAY them the $28 for warranty bulbs and the $25 they were charged for the chargeback when I had to dispute the transaction. I gave 1080p video evidence of the problems, and they refuse to help.
DDM will take your money, send you a kit, and if you have a problem you have to pay for new parts before they will do any warranty exchanges. They say they will refund you, but they come up with bull**** excuses why they don't have to. Very dissatisfied and I am still fighting with them.
DDM will take your money, send you a kit, and if you have a problem you have to pay for new parts before they will do any warranty exchanges. They say they will refund you, but they come up with bull**** excuses why they don't have to. Very dissatisfied and I am still fighting with them.



