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After doing some extensive work and buttoning everything up , I realized I used the bolts that fasten the pcm to the bracket that holds it— to attach the fuel rail to the intake manifold. They are about twice as long. What do you think will happen ? I haven’t cranked the engine up yet. Was using an electric ratchet , didn’t feel like anything cracked, had a little more resistance the last 25% of the bolt but nothing too significant. Do you think I cracked my manifold and will cause problems? Should I not even try to run her , and just replace the intake manifold ? I think I’m gonna crank her up, it might be fine. Here is pic of bolts for reference . The short ones are what was supposed to go in there .
Stuff happens its not the end of the world .I like to use freezer bags for parts I label them with a sharpe . Or put them back in where they came out . The timing cover is best handled by making a large cardboard cover drawing then put bolts thru cardboard , label each with sequence and torque value , put tape on rear threads to stop them from falling out. A poster guy on here created that good idea I wish I had kept his name .
I also like to use anti seize on minor threads , not on parts under timing cover or anything critical . Cop bolts ,fuel rail bolts, pcm bolts are some that I do . .
Stuff happens its not the end of the world .I like to use freezer bags for parts I label them with a sharpe . Or put them back in where they came out . The timing cover is best handled by making a large cardboard cover drawing then put bolts thru cardboard , label each with sequence and torque value , put tape on rear threads to stop them from falling out. A poster guy on here created that good idea I wish I had kept his name .
I also like to use anti seize on minor threads , not on parts under timing cover or anything critical . Cop bolts ,fuel rail bolts, pcm bolts are some that I do . .
yeah I normally do that , but I’ve been in and out of this thing so many times I pretty much use about 3 different bags , one for valve covers and timing cover , one for timing kit stuff , and one for everything else . Unfortunately when I was putting the fuel rail back on I ignored the little voice in my head that second guessed the length of the bolt as it was about half way in . I’m just afraid that that plastic manifold , with holes for the fuel rail in the casing probably only 3/4 inch deep receive a1 1/4 inch bolt fully seated into it.. what happens when that extra half inch keeps on going past the bottom of the hole ? Hopefully there was more plastic it just bored into cleanly , but if it broke stuff off that could create all kinds of havoc from vacuum leaks to plastic bits In my intake ports/cylinder . Hopefully it’s fine , but we’ll see
Well to be honest I would pull intake and fish out broken parts that surely fell in . You dont want to get those pieces in a valve . I guess i would put a new clean intake on it or at least a junk yard one . Sorry for your trouble .
After doing some extensive work and buttoning everything up , I realized I used the bolts that fasten the pcm to the bracket that holds it— to attach the fuel rail to the intake manifold. They are about twice as long. What do you think will happen ? I haven’t cranked the engine up yet. Was using an electric ratchet , didn’t feel like anything cracked, had a little more resistance the last 25% of the bolt but nothing too significant. Do you think I cracked my manifold and will cause problems? Should I not even try to run her , and just replace the intake manifold ? I think I’m gonna crank her up, it might be fine. Here is pic of bolts for reference . The short ones are what was supposed to go in there .
I don’t know, but if I was in that situation, and if I didn’t have a definitive answer, I would: remove incorrect bolts, blow out holes, reinstall with proper, then watch carefully for leaks, and carefully monitor fluid levels (and temps) going forward.
Take precise measurements when engine is fully cold, on level ground. Then monitor/measure going forward under same condition.
While I’ve got you here, I went back in to put on new timing chains and vct housings. I have the cast iron tensioners installed and new phasers as well , that I installed back in probably late January early February . I was getting some start up rattle even after the new timing kit install, but I did not purchase a new chain because that chain only had about a year on it before one of my vcts got mechanically locked and damaged my phaser as well . So when I replaced the phasers and vcts and put in the cast iron tensioners I didn’t figure I needed a new chain , but then I got the start up rattle . Noticed chain was a little loose on passenger side , with no oil pressure on tensioners, and attributed start up rattle to that. Well when I installed new chains , they still seem to have a little bit more slack than I’d like. Enclosing picture. What do you think, does this look normal ?
I have electric ratchets but I would not use it on plastic manifold but even aluminum I'm careful with . I always start my bolts by feel . My ratchets don't have a torque setting which worries me .
While I’ve got you here, I went back in to put on new timing chains and vct housings. I have the cast iron tensioners installed and new phasers as well , that I installed back in probably late January early February . I was getting some start up rattle even after the new timing kit install, but I did not purchase a new chain because that chain only had about a year on it before one of my vcts got mechanically locked and damaged my phaser as well . So when I replaced the phasers and vcts and put in the cast iron tensioners I didn’t figure I needed a new chain , but then I got the start up rattle . Noticed chain was a little loose on passenger side , with no oil pressure on tensioners, and attributed start up rattle to that. Well when I installed new chains , they still seem to have a little bit more slack than I’d like. Enclosing picture. What do you think, does this look normal ?
Totally normal to have some slack with the engine not running.
yeah I normally do that , but I’ve been in and out of this thing so many times I pretty much use about 3 different bags , one for valve covers and timing cover , one for timing kit stuff , and one for everything else . Unfortunately when I was putting the fuel rail back on I ignored the little voice in my head that second guessed the length of the bolt as it was about half way in . I’m just afraid that that plastic manifold , with holes for the fuel rail in the casing probably only 3/4 inch deep receive a1 1/4 inch bolt fully seated into it.. what happens when that extra half inch keeps on going past the bottom of the hole ? Hopefully there was more plastic it just bored into cleanly , but if it broke stuff off that could create all kinds of havoc from vacuum leaks to plastic bits In my intake ports/cylinder . Hopefully it’s fine , but we’ll see
Id take a piece of safety wire and poke it down in the hole, see if it comes out the bottom or if it bottoms out . If it bottoms out just beyond the screw length I think you dodged a bullet
Id take a piece of safety wire and poke it down in the hole, see if it comes out the bottom or if it bottoms out . If it bottoms out just beyond the screw length I think you dodged a bullet
04-23-2023, 11:24 PM
How screwed am I
