Has anyone ever run into issues bleeding the brakes? I just put a lift on and can't get them bled. Do I need one of the computers for the ABS?

 

How did you try to bleed them?
Usually it's better to have someone help. Have them pump the pedal until they can no longer pump it. Have them hold the pedal while you crack the bleeder screw.

Or you may have to take it to the dealer and have them hook it up to a Tech II and have the ABS system cycled.

 

Disc brakes! = no bleeding. Problem solved

 

You still bleed disc brakes...

 

Lol ya disc brakes still need bled. Point in case, I had an inferior brand of vehicle that I changed front pads and painted calipers. Didn't bleed the system and went to pull out of the garage and kept rolling! Had to slam on e brake and get back in the garage to bleed them. Broke a bleeder screw and ended up replacing both front calipers. Just be cautious with the bleeder screws they could be seized or stuck a little bit and to break one is very painful to have happen.

 

I spent the majority of the day yesterday trying different methods to bleed, and at the end of the day all I accomplished was wasting 4 bottles of brake fluid.

I am only trying to bleed the front lines since I put a lift on and I didn't open up the rear lines at all. One thing I'm worried about is that I was trying to bleed them by having someone pump the brakes and then opening up up the banjo bolt on each caliper, one at a time. I broke off the bleeder valve on the driver side and I can tell the passenger side is going to break too, so that's why I was trying to use the banjo bolt instead. I also tried gravity bleeding for 30 minutes with no luck either. I can pump the brakes and they get hard, but if I let off of them for 5 seconds, the pedal goes straight to the floor the next time I push it. What I'm wondering is if somehow there is air in the caliper that isn't getting forced out since I'm opening the line at the banjo bolt instead of the bleeder valve, or if somehow the ABS module has air in it and I need one of those scan tools to cycle it as I bleed. I also bled it from the 2 connections at the master cylinder.

Has anyone ever drilled out a bleeder valve, or am I going to have to buy 2 new calipers to get them to work? The one that broke off is now flush with the caliper, so there is nothing to hold on to in order to get it out. I doubt it would come out anyway since it appears to be frozen in place.

 

I use a MightyVac tool. Only one person needed. Connect the MightyVac to the bleeder screw, pump the tool to create a vacumn, open bleeder, and the tool pulls the fluid.

There are other tools out now that force the fluid from the valve to the master cylinder. This is supposed to be better, as the air bubbles in the brake system are supposed to travel easier in an upward direction.

I have never had a problem bleeding using the MightyVac tool. Priced good for the home mechanic, and it works.

And I'd like to know where that person came up with the idea that disc brakes do not require bleeding????

 

You really can't do it by yourself, unless you have what Bucko said...You don't need a new Caliper just because the zirk fitting broke off...take an easy out tap it into the fitting where it broke off and twist it out...install a new one...replace they all before you break another...You have to bleed all 4 breaks to get your system back up.

 

if you want to make it easier the next time, you can also install the speed bleeder... that thing is popular in motorcycles. you turn them 1/4, then push the brakes and it will allow the brake fluid out without leaving bubbles. its like $7 a piece

 

I have one of these but the problem I have is that I can't get the bleeder screws open so that I can connect it. The front two are stuck (one that I already broke off flush with the caliper, and the other is going to break if I try to get it loose). The rear bleeder screws open without problem.

Knowing that the passenger side bleeder screw is going to break too, should I just go ahead and break it off and try the easy out?

I also thought of just going to Advance Auto and swapping my front 2 with new ones so I don't have to mess with trying to get the bleeder screws out. You get a core charge back when you take them your old ones in. I priced them yesterday but I can't remember how much the guy told me the core charge was, but I'm thinking I would only have to pay $20-25 each for the swap out. I might try the easy out on the one I already broke off and if it is going to be too much of a hassle, I might just go swap them out.

Thanks for the info guys!