Grinding noise
Hey all,
Recently I've been having some grinding sounds coming from the front end of my truck. I've looked online and it seems like its my 4x4 acting up. It starts and I switch the truck into 4x4 and it goes away. Some people say its the IWE solenoid and some people say its the actuator. I just replaced the IWE solenoid so I don't think its that but the actuator? How hard is it to change one of those and where would it be located?
Recently I've been having some grinding sounds coming from the front end of my truck. I've looked online and it seems like its my 4x4 acting up. It starts and I switch the truck into 4x4 and it goes away. Some people say its the IWE solenoid and some people say its the actuator. I just replaced the IWE solenoid so I don't think its that but the actuator? How hard is it to change one of those and where would it be located?
How to replace IWEs;
http://www.f150online.com/forums/2004-2008-f-150/360269-iwes-removal-replacing.html
Includes tools needed... Not hard. Parts (IWEs) are cheaper at online sources than at most dealers.
Trouble-shooting resources;
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1211749-4wd-not-working-help-me-pinpoint-my-issue-plz.html#post12662529
https://www.f150forum.com/f72/how-di...m-esof-186872/
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/83...then-some.html
What do you fly?
http://www.f150online.com/forums/2004-2008-f-150/360269-iwes-removal-replacing.html
Includes tools needed... Not hard. Parts (IWEs) are cheaper at online sources than at most dealers.
Trouble-shooting resources;
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1211749-4wd-not-working-help-me-pinpoint-my-issue-plz.html#post12662529
https://www.f150forum.com/f72/how-di...m-esof-186872/
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/83...then-some.html
What do you fly?
60DRB gave you some good posts. It's probably likely the actuator, but it could be low vacuum as well. The best place to start is use a vacuum pump and test the two actuators separately. If one (or both) won't hold vacuum, then you know they need replacing.
As for how hard it is to change... depends how mechanically inclined you are. You need to pop the upper (or lower) control arm and move the knuckle out of the way. Each actuator is on the back side of the knuckle held by 4 bolts with the half shaft going through. It'll have 2 vacuum lines (kind of together) plugged into it. You can't miss it if you look under the vehicle behind the wheel.
There's youtube videos on how to do it as well as many resources in this forum. I think there may even be a sticky
.
As for how hard it is to change... depends how mechanically inclined you are. You need to pop the upper (or lower) control arm and move the knuckle out of the way. Each actuator is on the back side of the knuckle held by 4 bolts with the half shaft going through. It'll have 2 vacuum lines (kind of together) plugged into it. You can't miss it if you look under the vehicle behind the wheel.
There's youtube videos on how to do it as well as many resources in this forum. I think there may even be a sticky
.
Thanks for the info guys! I'll try to take a look at it today, is it a problem for me to drive around with the 4x4 engaged? I'm really busy with school and work this week and don't know if I can fix it until the weekend or sometime next week.
Just unplug the IWE control solenoid on the firewall behind the battery. The wheel hubs will stay engaged, but you won't be in 4x4 because the transfer case will still be unlocked.
Leave the control **** in 4x2, unplug the IWE solenoid (or the vacuum line at IWE solenoid) like VTX1800N1 suggested. You'll be turning your front diff but your transfer case will still be in 4x2 so you're not binding anything. It's not good to run 4x4 on dry pavement (you'll notice too haha - especially sharp turns of course). You'll lose a bit of MPG from turning the front differential but not much. I ran mine for about a week this way while I waited for the new actuator years ago. Could still shift between 4x4 and 4x2 too (as hubs were basically just locked).
Last edited by homer; Jan 27, 2014 at 12:27 PM.
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Leave the control **** in 4x2, unplug the IWE solenoid (or the vacuum line at IWE solenoid) like VTX1800N1 suggested. You'll be turning your front diff but your transfer case will still be in 4x2 so you're not binding anything. It's not good to run 4x4 on dry pavement (you'll notice too haha - especially sharp turns of course). You'll lose a bit of MPG from turning the front differential but not much. I ran mine for about a week this way while I waited for the new actuator years ago. Could still shift between 4x4 and 4x2 too (as hubs were basically just locked).
hahaha yeah, they also say not to use 4x4 on dry pavement in the owners manual too. You could end up with transfer-case windup or something else giving:
http://rubicon-trail.com/4WD101/driveline-bind.html
http://rubicon-trail.com/4WD101/driveline-bind.html
Last edited by homer; Jan 27, 2014 at 01:17 PM.





