Going Nuts...
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Going Nuts...
I have 2004 5.4 Triton Automatic 8cyl.
I know nothing about vehicles so please bear with me. This is actually my husbands truck and it has been running really ****ty for a few months. Mostly it lacks power when going over 40 mph (almost seems to slip into neutral), idles a bit rough, has stalled a few times when coming to a stop. My husband took it to the dealer and got back a few codes: P0104, P0121, P0221, P2104, P2111. They want to change out the Throttle and the MAF sensor for $1,000. My husband figured he would take the parts out and clean them to see if that would help. Well, it's still running the same, he's resorted to driving with the OD off since the RPMs don't jump all over like they do with the OD on. Any ideas guys? I really don't want to fork over the $$ to the dealer...my husband can do minor repairs to the truck but if it's something overly complicated we'll have to take it to the shop.
I know nothing about vehicles so please bear with me. This is actually my husbands truck and it has been running really ****ty for a few months. Mostly it lacks power when going over 40 mph (almost seems to slip into neutral), idles a bit rough, has stalled a few times when coming to a stop. My husband took it to the dealer and got back a few codes: P0104, P0121, P0221, P2104, P2111. They want to change out the Throttle and the MAF sensor for $1,000. My husband figured he would take the parts out and clean them to see if that would help. Well, it's still running the same, he's resorted to driving with the OD off since the RPMs don't jump all over like they do with the OD on. Any ideas guys? I really don't want to fork over the $$ to the dealer...my husband can do minor repairs to the truck but if it's something overly complicated we'll have to take it to the shop.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: carlisle pa
Posts: 180
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thats not hard at all do it urself to do it u just take the intake off and in the intake the maf will be there try to clean it if dose not work then do the throttle body and if that dose not fix it then just go to the auto part store and get new you will save alot of money and it is easy to do
#4
Moderator (Ret.)
It basically means they reset the PCM to clear the codes. Unpluging the negative battery cable for a minute can do the same thing, provided the fault was fixed.
#5
'08f150stx
thats not hard at all do it urself to do it u just take the intake off and in the intake the maf will be there try to clean it if dose not work then do the throttle body and if that dose not fix it then just go to the auto part store and get new you will save alot of money and it is easy to do
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
He did try cleaning both and it hasn't stalled anymore since but he can't seem to get it to run smoothly over 40 mph. What do you think he should try replacing first?
Trending Topics
#8
'08f150stx
X2....The 'Zone has maf cleaner for around $12 i believe.
Then after cleaning and or changing the MAF, then clear the codes, take it back to a place like the 'Zone, and they will check the codes free.
Then after cleaning and or changing the MAF, then clear the codes, take it back to a place like the 'Zone, and they will check the codes free.
Last edited by '08f150stx; 11-04-2010 at 12:37 PM.
#9
I always start w/ the cheapest thing because if that fixes it you got away w/ the least amount of expense. and if it does not fix it...hey it was probably time to clean/replace it anyways. and in my experience MAFs and O2s are the first things to go on almost every vehicle ive had.
#10
Moderator (Ret.)
IMO, this is the most expensive way to attempt a repair. throwing parts at it, starting with the cheapest is only hoping to get it fixed within the first part or two. If you're not equipped with the diagnostic tools, take it to a repair center. This is where your Ford dealership has an advantage; they will use a known good part to test, installing and removing until the problem is solved, charging you only for the part(s) that fix the fault, plus labor.
Sure, anyone of us can do this, but most do not have spare replacement parts for each sensor that could be throwing the codes.
But if money's no object, then by all means, buy one part at a time and replace; sooner or later you'll get it fixed.
Sure, anyone of us can do this, but most do not have spare replacement parts for each sensor that could be throwing the codes.
But if money's no object, then by all means, buy one part at a time and replace; sooner or later you'll get it fixed.