I'm assuming you have checked all the big fuse relays under the hood in that fuse box?

 

The only. fuse/relay box I am aware of is the one below the dashboard on the passeger side, in front of the door. I looked around but saw no other. I had a charger on from about 8 am until about 5pm., nothing.

 

Not sure what all this one runs but I'm sure there's a relay in there. And if it does happen to be a cell in the battery charging it will not change anything.

 

Here's the relay box

 

Thanks

 

No problem. I should note my truck is a 2004 that's what's in the owners manual. It has the list of all the fuse box numbers too. Do you have an owners manual? That might help you narrow it down.

 

Okay, an update but few good results. I did locate the fusible Links, just was not recognizing what I looked at before. I did check one for continuity and it was good. I also located the relay box mentioned on the fender. There were two fuses in the relay box that checked for continuity also, but caused me to wonder.I have two fuse testers and used both, When I checked one side of the fuses with one tester it worked okaym, but on the other side of the fuse it didn't. At least for a while. They had a marker on top which I hope did not matter which way they went back in, saw no reason for that. I did not check the relays, mainly because I need to read up on checking them a but more.

So, with with all that and ideas of a bad battery I went and got a new one. No change! I know the battery had drained down several times, so the new one isn't that bad. I really did not think it would be the battery based on the fact that jumping from a good battery with the jumpers cables going directly to the truck cables, omitting the battery all together, did nothing.

What I was working on and looking at to begin with were the circuits to the cigar lighter and the fan blower control. I checked the fuses for those circuits and they checked ok. How if affects the ignition, radio, wipers, windows, door open alarm, possibly the instrument pane, l while at the same time the door locks, headlights, tail lights, dome light, and security monitor light all work. I know why mechanics hate electrical problems.

I had removed a little insulation from two wires going into the plug to the fan motor control. Trying to find a switched hot wire, ( hot in start and run, not hot all the time). That did not work so I taped them back up. I disconnected the plug to the cigar lighter to check voltage. Up to that point when I needed to have the ignition on to check voltage it worked fine. Then all of a sudden nothing, no starting or anything other than the lights mentioned above. The milege may be showing on the monitor screen but that may just be memory showing it.

I checked the fuses shown on a manual and on a better wiring diagram downloaded. I j hope it is cooler Monday so I can check the fuses again, a real pain the butt in reality as well as figuratively. I did notice something I though odd, some circuits shown leading to a particular fuse. the square ones with a plastic examination top, has no such fuse in that spot. They were gone before and all worked fine.

 

To begin the week right I thought I better go see about the truck problem- no electrical power to some and power to other parts. I first thought of checking the fusible links, especially the one feeding the fuse box (one is to go there, another to the starter and one to the alternator I if I read correctly). Then since it would be a task just to do that I thought again, if some fuses have power the fuse box must be getting power. So I checked the positive terminal connection, it looked wonderful. I then went to the relayy box on the left fender where I checked fuses the other day. I checked the relays, but only to check for stuck relays. They were okay, continuity between the two low current posts, none for the other two.

The next step, not looking forward to, I went back to the fuse box, Seemed easier to access this time. I checked the relays on circuits that seemed to apply, they all checked okay. So down the list of fuses, checked quite a few and all looked good and checked out on the tester. There was one that did seem loose, and did fall out so I replaced that. Still nothing to resolve the situation.

{Edit:I had a lot of text but the computer lost it. Basically I checked a lot of relays and fuses and all checked out okay. I got to the one fuse or solenoid and it checked okay, but when comparing to the information was in the wrong spot, when I put in the spot mentioned things started happening- the door ajar alarm started buzzing, so I tried the ignition and e it worked, the motor ran and all! The only thing that I noticed that does not work is either power accessory socket.

WHY? Why did all stop working? I had put that fuse back in the wrong spot but after all stopped working! All fuses check out and one that seemed to be missing for the circuit needed was replaced, but no power there.

 

Very confusing post . It is apparent that you had an open circuit . It could be a poor open ground also . I'm sure you are moving stuff around wires etc which can cause the connection to make . clean all grds and check for a good battery cable to starter if corroded replace them . Check/clean your grounds in kick panel .You need a good schematic if it happens again and check for loss of power with test light. you can use a long lead to battery negative for your test light to bypass a bad ground reading . you can use jumper cables to battery negative to supply a ground if you think that point is not getting a normal ground .
with salt exposure grounds on truck get unreliable .

 

Update Aug 29: Tried for a long time to get the situation remedied. I checked all fuses, and relays, I checked the connections, I got new battery. I looked at various wiring diagrams, some very helpful.

I had put all back the way is was when I got it. The other day I finally checked with a dealer. I actually went to see if they knew of any in-line fuse or circuit protector. We looked at the tech manual in the computer and it showed the circuits I wanted and the appropriate fuses. Fuses 41 and 39; then he said here is something I don't understand. The diagram showed an alternate fuse for either I with a stipulation "late model", fuses 110 and 117. So he went and looked at the fuses and then said no wonder fuses 41 and 39 do not work,, they are empty spots with no terminalss, thus I have the "later model" fuses 110 and 117 were checked and they were good. So it was determined a ground was probably at fault, possibly a ground shared by both power terminals.

I left with intent to look at the power point grounds. I had other things to do and while waiting at one spot for some reason decided to see if there phone charger would work, I plugged into the power points. IT WORKED! But the GPS unit would not work when connected to the power. I have a three unit adapter and the GPS did not work when connected to that or direct to the power. So was the brand new adapter bad? A 12 v vacuum cleaner worked so it was something else. I have the same GPS unit in the car so borrowed that cord to try now the GPS worked! So, the cord to the GPS is at fault! I think what happened is somehow that cord got shorted when I was working before, I have no clue how since it was disconnected! But the major thing was I think when the tech put the fuses back he may have got them back tighter than when I did and they finally made proper contact. I need to see if the wire to the GPS can be opened and check for a fuse, or get a new wire-- about $90.

{Edit: I finally found the Bad fuse in the GPS wire, could not figure how to open the case last night, this morning it almost opened itself}

At present my car is headed to the shop for minor body repair and my bike has been in a shop for two weeks. I think my shoes still work.