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I was looking at a differential tag or something and just happened to see the module raised up and split in half. Funny that it still worked like a champ! Replaced it just the same as one big puddle could have put me on a tow truck.
I was looking at a differential tag or something and just happened to see the module raised up and split in half. Funny that it still worked like a champ! Replaced it just the same as one big puddle could have put me on a tow truck.
I was looking at a differential tag or something and just happened to see the module raised up and split in half. Funny that it still worked like a champ! Replaced it just the same as one big puddle could have put me on a tow truck.
A puddle put me under, but luckily I was less than a mile from my house! By time my wife came and got me, this thread was found, we ran to AutoZone, came back, and fixed it. All in under 90 minutes. Very fortunate.
My truck quit today 150 miles from home, but restarted after several more cranks than usual. I only had 30 more miles until my destination, so I stopped and picked up a new FPDM along the way and changed it when I got where I was going. Mine didn’t look nearly as bad as some on here, but also had been replaced about 50k miles ago by previous owner. Hoping it was the issue. Possibly could have just been a Dorman unit at the end of its life.
If that had been replaced before.. i would think it would of had the new stand off ..
It did have the standoffs (rubber bushings) and was sitting a half inch off the steel frame. However, the standoffs don’t stop the galvanic corrosion, as the electrolysis circuit is still maintained due to the steel bolts securing it to the steel frame. All the stand offs due is keep salt and debris from accumulating behind it. For all I know, the module case needs to be grounded to the frame in order to operate. Has anyone used rubber grommets to hold the bolt heads off the zinc housing? (The reason I say zinc is the housing doesn’t feel like aluminum, and looks the same as the sacrificial zinc bricks on the bottoms of our aluminum crew bots at work after sitting in salt water for a year).
Last edited by dukedkt442; 02-16-2019 at 05:18 PM.
I had mine hanging by the plug to test it.. fired right up.. I believe on of the wires is a ground.
Interesting. I wonder why they just don’t cast the case in steel, or better yet, completely in plastic, in order to fully alleviate the recurring issue. It’s now on my list of consumable parts, and also on the spring checklist. Upstate NY winters or a life on Long Island certainly don’t help.
yeah.. wonder why they don’t make the exhaust manifolds and studs better.. and better made phasers and chain tensioner and... the list could go on
It could, but designing something that will inherently corrode and then immersing it in salt water is a basic HS chemistry no-no, especially when it results in a “no-sail” condition. Just surprised some aftermarket company like Dorman hasn’t designed a simple fix.
No matter, continue to check the FPDM even if it’s already been replaced already. Can’t fight nature.
Last edited by dukedkt442; 02-16-2019 at 05:42 PM.
02-07-2019, 04:24 AM
Galvanic corrosion sucks
