Front End Grind (Pics/Video)
02-06-2018, 01:29 PM
#12
Okay, the cheapest part to replace is the check valve. It can work intermittently.
Next is the solenoid. Prior to 2009 the solenoid was mounted on the passenger side firewall. There is a known issue that water will run over the top of it there and this potentially get water in the lines. There is a new designed solenoid that has a cover on it to direct water around it. Might be worth replacing even if it isn’t your issue.
Next is the solenoid. Prior to 2009 the solenoid was mounted on the passenger side firewall. There is a known issue that water will run over the top of it there and this potentially get water in the lines. There is a new designed solenoid that has a cover on it to direct water around it. Might be worth replacing even if it isn’t your issue.
02-06-2018, 01:32 PM
#13
Did you replace the hub and bearing in the spindle when you replaced the shaft? Judging by the audio...it sounds mechanical in nature, like a bearing or metal frag in between the race and the bearings. I know it's tedious work...but it needs to be ruled out.
Last edited by Smokin04; 02-06-2018 at 01:34 PM.
02-06-2018, 01:42 PM
#14
Okay, the cheapest part to replace is the check valve. It can work intermittently.
Next is the solenoid. Prior to 2009 the solenoid was mounted on the passenger side firewall. There is a known issue that water will run over the top of it there and this potentially get water in the lines. There is a new designed solenoid that has a cover on it to direct water around it. Might be worth replacing even if it isn’t your issue.
Next is the solenoid. Prior to 2009 the solenoid was mounted on the passenger side firewall. There is a known issue that water will run over the top of it there and this potentially get water in the lines. There is a new designed solenoid that has a cover on it to direct water around it. Might be worth replacing even if it isn’t your issue.
I have the solenoid, just haven't installed. I just ordered the check valve. I'll be installing those both ASAP to see if that fixes things before I go to the IWE actuators. Those are much more expensive and tedious to replace.
When the axle was replaced, I inspected the IWE actuator and re-greased it before I installed the new axle. I did not replace the IWE actuator, hub, or bearing.
02-06-2018, 02:20 PM
#15
Sounded like bearings to me man. Original advise still stands...knock out the cheap stuff first and hope it solves the issue.
02-06-2018, 04:14 PM
#16
Member
I'm afraid the noise is back again so that axle wasn't the issue. I have a video with hopefully a little better sound of the issue here. This is all happening in 2WD. If I switch to 4WD the problem goes away but another symptom comes up. In 4WD I'll notice a skip/stutter/jerk in the drivetrain every 100 feet or so. ]
The issue in 4WD is most likely "wind up" you have traction on all 4 wheels, usually in the dirt/gravel the wheel will slip and you will not notice it, on hard surfaces it winds up your transfer case....often something lets go...like CV joints etc...
The grinding will either be the hub not disengaging 100% from the axle when the solenoid actuates, ....or a buggered Hub. If you had a tear in the CV boot, there is a high probability that the hardware in the hub area has deteriorated from water and salt ingress.
Pull the hub off and have a look to see if you can see the issue, 15 min job to perhaps answer your questions.