F150Torqued

Wish my rollers (replaced w/ my timing job) had been what you show as 'new style'. I believe that is much better. But ---- I'll just have to HOPE mine will do 212K miles, (and that would get me close to 450k miles before next go around). Lol


My problem seemed to be (at time of timing job) that the lash adjusters nearer the rear of Bank1 were stuck, and not moveable. Even so hard to pull out of their wells that I had to use vice grips and twist them back and forth to get them out. For this reason ... I spent a lot of time with carb cleaner and "Q"-tips cleaning the wells and compressed air blowing out the oil passages. (hoping that will helps).


I _THINK_ part of the problem (without suggesting any solution) is that the rear of bank 1 runs a little hotter than other cylinders --- possibly because of the design of the exhaust manifold, and nearer proximity of the Bank 1 CAT, makes it harder to 'expel' heat form cyl #4 than any other cylinder.


This makes me believe @redfishtd's recommendation of running a little MMR, and possibly an occassional 'flush' immediately preceeding an oil change is a good idea for longevity of the 5.4L engine.


Disclaimer. I'm not a mechanic by trade or an engineer! Just flex the grey matter for purposes of dementia exercise for an 'old fart'.

Eric Kleven

I'd say I'm a fan of the MMO, it works, slow & steady.

Ratrace

Sorry for my ignorance but what is MMO?

BadFish523

Marvel Mystery Snake Oil

Ratrace

OMG... Pulled a lash adjuster today and the plunger was stuck in the down position . Was able to manually play with the plunger but no spring action. Checked another one and the same thing. Checked all 24 and not one good lash adjuster....

F150Torqued

Snake Oil ? What would ya prefer we recommend for keepin' the lash adjuster operating freely - Motorcraft Friction Modifier?

Eric Kleven

Ratrace, that sounds about right, sorry to hear that.
It's pretty recommended to change all the lash adjusters if you go into the top end.

I've seen MMO work very well on dirty engines, making them stop using oil from stuck rings being freed, and making oil go so black you couldn't see the crosshatches on the dipstick within 2,000 miles. Slow & Steady, and it gets results. I'm thinking BadFish is like that guy that claims some different food is "gross" without having ever tried it...

..or he has tried it on a meticulously maintained engine and saw no difference, so it must have done nothing... not that there was anything for it to do...

Ratrace

Thanks..Should have all the parts tomorrow and will get it together this weekend. Hope this stops all the ticking and screeching noises. If not it might be time for that stick of TNT.

Ratrace

Ratrace

So i took the time today to put it all together. New water pump, power steering pump. All idlers, Timing chains, Guides, Rollers, Lash adjusters, Phasers, VVT solenoids, Right side cam and Melling M360 oil pump. Cleaned all oil passages from filter to right side Lash adjusters. Started her up and the ticking on the right was very loud. Everything was changed... The ticking quieted down after a few minutes. If i shut the engine and start her up the ticking is quite loud before quieting down again. It ticks on every start up. Besides that if i accelerate the loud screeching is sill there again on the passenger side. It sound like metal on metal or like bad ball bearings, but everything is new. I will try to upload a sound bite tomorrow. I need some serious help here. Im at my wits end.........