elricfate

All you're doing is bypassing the voltage measurement disable leg of the relay, the thing that tells the lights how to function automatically. There should be no heat or smoke involved.

650NutKase

thank you!

Jamieat

This is JUST a THOUGHT so noone jump to conclusions or be all aggressive and such!!!

Just Kidding but.......did you say that this install only required you to use one of the two factory connections on the wiring harness?

Just throwing this out there, not sure what it matters, just so were clear!!!, but, correct me if I'm wrong......ha! I love this....anyway, the factory headlights have two filaments just as your brake/running lights do. Each of those connections supplies each filament with the voltage to turn on and off. When you engage your high beams, the low beam filament turns off due to the switch transferring current from one circuit to the other. To test this, you can turn your low beams on and see one filament, turn your high beams on and see one filament illuminated. Pull the switch / lever towards you instead of pushing it forward to turn your high beams on and BOTH filaments illuminate. This is due to the fact that it does not activate the "switch" which is on or off but never both for the highs and lows, this simply applies current to both filaments or both wires/connectors on the harness.

If you look, your lights are brighter when you pull the switch towards you than they are by engaging the brights when you push it forward. This is b/c both the high beams and low beams are both on. They operate independently of one another. Kinda like you can have a blown brake/blinker on your tail light but the running light still work or your brake/blinker will work and the tail light wont.

With all that said, and given if I am correct and there are no arguments, then the open circuit on the wiring harness may be the issue.

I'd verify that you have both the driver and passenger side lights plugged into the same pin on the harness first off. If not do so and test. If you do, then reverse them. It could be possible that you have them plugged into the high beam socket which may possibly not allow the fogs to work since the high beam circuit is drawing current.

Have you tried the fogs with just the parking lights on? What was the result? This does not involve the high/low circuits and associated features at all. To test this, for those who'd like to, turn your parking lights on and your fogs, and they will work. While on, flip the lever from low to high beams as if your head lights were on (even tho their not) and it has no effect on the fog lamps at all. This is due to the fact that Neither circuit is drawing current and it does not trigger the disable feature for the highbeams as a result.

Other than that, I'd look at the switch as well. Don't know the trucks history but, could be a possibility that the wiring has been tampered with and may not be correct.

I can definitely see how the Bambi Mod may fix it as well, which, by the way, I did years ago, and I, myself, legal, illegal, wtf ever, I enjoy using my highs and fogs to blind the bastards that wont dim their lights when you flash them for having their high beams on like they don't care and elect to blind you instead of dimming their lights. Oh, and I use them both on the country roads and my pasture where I live too by the way.

Just a thought. Not trying to contradict what anyone said and not trying to start an argument or debate. If i'm wrong about anything I said, please explain and I'll "take it like a man" and not be rude in return!!

Anyway NutKase, you asked for other thoughts so I went outside box and gave ya something else to consider. Hope you get your issue resolved and I'm always game to help in any way I can over this forum.

Thanks

Jamieat

Forgive me, I haven't read all the posts b/c many were not about the topic and I missed this one.

This may reinforce the theory that the lights may not be connected to the same pin or may need to be reversed.

If they were both connected to just the highs, then the lights may function normally (I assume your aftermarket lights only have one power supply going to the bulbs which explains why high and lows work due to the nature of the design, separate circuits aren't necessary). If you have them, or one connected backwards, then it could be triggering the default setting or whatever ya wanna call it, and instead of auto switching the fogs off when highs are turned on, it's switching the highs on when the fogs are engaged.

There's a million possibilities with electrical and sometime's figuring it out gets in the way of fixing the problem. If it works and there's no issues, then understanding it is irrelevant to the problem. I've beat myself up trying to solve electrical mysteries that I'd already fixed in an attempt to understand.

When you add features that aren't exactly what the system was designed for, sometimes an anomaly may present itself.

Anyway, I'm done. Let us know how it works out, and again, good luck and hope you get it fixed.

Jamieat

I sure figured someone would have something to say about all this. Its rare I express a "what if" scenario or an opinion about something and no one take advantage of an opportunity to try and disprove or be condescending or atleast something! I was hoping that Ol NutKase would have some feedback.

Anyway, maybe he got if fixed.

Jamieat

That is correct. However, those single bulbs have two filaments that work independently from one another. One for the lowbeam and the other for the high. Hence the two wires.

It's the same as your brake lights or your front blinkers, one for the running lights and the other for the brake and blinker light.

I'm really just posting this because I figured someone else would have chimed in at this point and I'm attempting to prompt someone....anyone to post an opinion. It was getting interesting then just DIED! Sup Wit Dat?

Jamieat

Ok, weekend is over, what is the outcome?

650NutKase

Whats up man. It was a crazy busy weekend. The outcome is that I ended up doing the Bambi Mod last night. It has fixed the low beam with fogs on issue. I read through your posts and you had some interesting ideas. This is what I think the issue is with these LED's. Each LED comes with a driver that you plug into the factory H13 plug. This driver is meant to regulate the power that the LED's are getting. For some reason (I am not an EE), the truck is seeing the fog switch as the high beam switch. The only conclusion I came up with is the amperage to the LED's drivers are tricking the relay into thinking the LED's are drawing more power than what they really are. I also agree with elricfate, it can also be some CANBUS issue that would need to be rectified manually. Regardless, cheers! And thanks for the input!

Jamieat

If they are the same as most LED conversion applications then the "drivers" you refer to are actually load equalizers. They are to "trick" the circuit itself into thinking that the bulbs are drawing the normal amperage/voltage so that the circuit works normally. This can usually be bypassed by installing a relay specifically designed for LED application.

Its like this.....if you change your blinker for instance over to an LED Bulb on a vehicle made before Hmmmmm 06 I believe, then in most cases, your blinker is gonna blink really fast.....as if you have a blown blinker bulb.

Your blinker doesnt blink fast when one bulb blows due to it letting you know you got a blown bulb, it blinks fast due to the fact its not drawing the correct amount of power and the "blinker" or device which regulates the flow of current to provide the on and off for your blinker isn't functioning as designed.

Usually, a load equalizer placed in line will fix this issue, or, you can replace the relay with one compatible with LED's.

My truck is an 05. I can't and won't bother telling you about all the anomalies I experienced while trying to swap all my lightning over to LED's. Tis the only reason I know what I am telling you. Put in load equalizers, swap relays, take out equalizers, and dash lights flash with blinkers, head lights flash with the cargo lights.....crazy stuff I seen.....still with no explanation for it all and I dont bother trying so long as it all works.

Glad you got your issue taken care of and I hope it holds out for you for the duration.

I've done the mod myself for reasons previously described (after reading my own post, I realized the level of intoxication should have prevented me from being conscious, let alone typing posts!) and wish you the best.

Please let us all know if you have any other questions and share with us anything you learn along the way so as ....speaking for myself......I might apply it to any similar situation I may encounter in the future.

Thanks

650NutKase

"(after reading my own post, I realized the level of intoxication should have prevented me from being conscious, let alone typing posts!)"


hahaha no problem bud, I really do appreciate the information that you have provided. I did receive a set of resistors in the mail from the company for free, so that should help if I need to install some in the future. However, I don't really plan on doing anymore lighting upgrades. The reason I did LED's is because my gf and I take a lot of road trips and some roads are pitch black. I wanted to throw a little more light on the road than what the "premium" halogen bulbs could do. The only other thing that I may change is replace the fogs with those fake HID bulbs that pepboys sells in order to even out the lighting color. Who knows, I may just leave them haha