So after having a 2" AS on to level it out for about a year and a half... Iam on my 2nd tierod end.

I have tried the search to see if anyone has a fix, but can't come up with anything.

Anyone fixed the angles for less that that the new ends cost and the headaches?

 

well, when i installed my 6" lift, the kit flips the tie rod to above the knuckle, rather from the bottom side of the knuckle.

since they are a tapered shaft, a machine shop could possible rework your knuckles to allow you to flip them. although it wouldnt be the cheapest route, it would save time and money down the road.

im not sure if there are any adaptors out there to make it a "bolt on" mod.

 

thanks matt... anybody else know if there is a bolt on? or easy fix?

 

Yes, you can buy wedges to fill the empty space. They also make a bit that you turn by hand to give it the cone shape. You then put the wedge on the bottom side of it where the nut is, and tighten it up.

I forgot the names for it, but I saw it on Trucks.

 

check this link out. these people may even be able to figure out exactly what you need if the item on the link isnt the right one.


http://www.bcbroncos.com/steering1.html

hope this helps some.

 

Anybody out there see the trucks episode and remember what it was?

I couldn't find it on the truck website.

 

http://www.ok4wd.com/index.php/catal..._rod_flip_kit/
that was from the TRUCKS show, but for Jeeps

So if you had a lathe, and knew the diameter if the tie rod end, you drill or ream the center out to .001 over the tie rod ends straight sections dimension, then turn the outside to match the taper. A cone with a through hole.

Measure the angle of the tie rod taper figure out the taper, it MAY be 1.5 inches/foot or 7.125 degrees. Don't quote me figure it out. Measure the small diameter, large diameter, and length of the taper, then it's basic trig.

btw if it is 7.125 degrees here is the reamer if you can make your own spacers http://www.xkut-reamers.com/servlet/...ER-FOOT/Detail

If the measurements give you 2 inches per foot, it is a 10 degree reamer you need.

 

^^^ looks just like that product. Basically they removed the ball joint, tried putting it in from the top, used the bit to cut a little out, tried again, repeat until it fits, find out what bushing fits in the bottom, put that on, put nut on, tighten, install cotter pin, and you are set.