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...”crank set at 12 O’clock”.....
my apologies, I could have explained better. What I meant was I set key way on crankshaft at 12 O’clock position so I could remove exhaust rocker at cylinder 1, 2 intakes at cylinder 4, 2 intakes at cylinder 5....I went to remove exhaust rocker at cylinder 8 but it was compressed so I couldn’t remove it. I wasn’t sure how to continue. The 4 part series on YouTube (by fordmakuloco), also Chilton manual says I need to remove these 6 rockers first, key way at the 12 O’clock position, then rotate keyway to 6 Oclock position and remove the rest of the rockers. .....I don’t understand why I’m having hard time with that step (cylinder 8 rocker)
Let's communicate in terms of the "CRANK DOT" for purposes here. (It's what gets ABSOLUTELY important when you put chains on anyway. Although I've done lots of wrenching keeping my cars (& hotrods) running over my 72 years, I don't consider myself a super experienced mechanic. I don't know what the exact effect of TDC positioning is on Cyl 8. As it happens, when I did my timing job (2004 5.4L), I just pulled the cams and changed lash adjusters / roller followers and everything. Please check out this post that relates --- https://www.f150forum.com/f4/compres...9/#post5937101
If you are changing roller followers anyway - it might be worth your time to remove cams / check cam journals / bearing surfaces - and clean the 'itsy bitsy' oil groves under the cam caps. And especially all the small passageways under VCT solenoid bodies etc. I know the valve springs keep some torsion on the cams - but some guys change Phasers and chains without ever removing ANY roller followers to relieve the torsion force. Keep us posted. Good luck.
Thank you F150Torqued! My lack of experience had me stuck sticking to book references. I’ll take your 72 yrs over that and just put “CRANK DOT” at 6 O’clock and get this job done. Thanks for link and input! It’s been quite a learning experience so far. For a guy who’s experience wrenching has only been replacing alternators/starters/plugs
thanks for your advise and guide they were great, while I replaced everything about 4 years ago on my 05 f150 with 200k on it now it has 250k, my tick and knock came back a few months ago. I was ready to order a new engine when I tried one more thing, changing oil to mobile 1 0-20 and adding one bottle of STP oil treatment. Thr kock and tick are gone from the passenger side vct. This worked and no more tick or knock from last two oil changes. I think the oil pressure is the reason but in my case with high mileage I might suspect the cam may have too much wear and oil pressure is just not high enough to move the vct to correct position. The design is bad in my opinion for this vct and valve tensioner. It took me 30 hours to do the repair myself the first time and about $1200 in parts, I would be faster now and not get slowed down trying to leave the air conditioner in place. I am not in any way a mechanic but you guide and this forem helped me get through it with out too much pain and just a few sore knuckles. Thanks again for your advise.
Cam and cam caps are scored on passenger side. Wish I would have checked those first before spending $1,100 in timing parts. But half way thru I decided to change rockers and lifters and then I saw how bad the cam and cam caps are. I don’t really want to spend another $800-$1000 for a new head. So best guess, how long do you think motor would last putting cam and cam caps back in?
Last edited by MN150; 11-06-2018 at 04:23 PM.
Reason: Add pic
No way how to guess about longevity - but I can tell you this. Oil galleys have restrictors where oil 'enters' the head to keep pressure up (in favor of the lower end) and limit pressure to proper drip pressure across lash adjusters / roller followers - and Phasers / Chain Tensioners. Any leakage from cam bearings will significantly degredate pressure available for Phasers and Tensioners. It might NOT even work correctly immediately when you finish. AND, that was very possibly what your problem was that lead to the decision to do the Timing Job.
I would not 'patch' it. I would bite the bullet and fix it right. Sorry for the unexpected cost - but in the end it is not but about two of those payments on a new (or newer) one.
Ok followed this post. Found driver side phaser pin broke and messed up cam nose. Ordered new timing set phasers and stock replacement cams. Took out spark plugs and rockers. With cam caps lose engine turns. With cam caps torqued engine won't turn over. Have at least 0.001 in clearance measured by plastigage. What am I missing. Are the new cams I bought warped? 06 F150 5.3L vin V. All the cam replacement videos I have found don't show bearings but my does. Sorry if wrong place just frustrated.
At 160000 replaced engine with a crate engine. Now at 260000 having this issue.
I'm sure its little consolation at the moment, but I'm sorry you're having the problems. Sounds like you have / are trying all the right things. Timing issue is out of the equation with 'rollers' out - and Plugs out should make it totally easy to rotate. Your diagnostic description certainly sounds like cam bearings are causing the resistance. I don't think a 'warped' cam would totally seize the thing.
I'm a little surprised that the caps gauged at 0.001 on a 100,000 mile engine. I'm wondering if parts are correct. All 5.4ls do not use the same CAM and we're dealing with a reman engine that could have had different heads put on it ?????? I don't even know if there is a difference in bearing diameter either. I have NO particular expertise on the issue, but did see the attached Technote onetime ----. Might check into that angle.
BTW. Welcome to the Forum. Hope membership proves helpful for you.
Well it is the 05 cams in it. Got to toss the new phaser bolt and get the phaser off to see if the new cams are right. Old cams spin no issue.
Figured it out. The original cams are 0.010 under sized. They measure 1.116 not the spec 1.126-1.128. The new cam measures 1.126.
Dont trust the plastiguage now.
So now where do I get the correct bearings.
Last edited by Turner75; 11-24-2018 at 07:05 PM.
Reason: Updated info
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So now where do I get the correct bearings.
Bearings ??? The 5.4L does not have cam bearings. Cam runs directly in the machined journals in the aluminum head. I 'understand' there aftermarket bearings that can be put in the head by boring the journals. There is something like that going on with that reman engine. What a PITA. I would be FURTHER careful now that the cam caps have been torqued down on a cam TOO BIG for the bearing bore.
And I agree - I would have expected the plastiguage to be 1/2 inch wide !
10-27-2018, 09:34 PM
Cam phaser wiped cam
