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I'm replacing the timing set on my 2007 f150 5.4 3v engine and need to compress the valve springs.. does anyone know how to do this without having to buy the 50$ tool off amazon..?
Trust me, just pony up and buy the tool. It will make life 1000% better when you use it! I bought the same one and it made the job a wee bit easier. I couldn't imagine not having that tool and dealing with 24 valve springs.
If you set it up at the timing point before you take chains off is best . But removing cams means no valves down to bend . No fooling with expensive clumsy tool and running the risk of dropping valve
Just set the cam lobes and timing point on crank gear at 6 oclock .Then start loosening cam bolts from the center out per book sequence a little at a time . all cam stuff has to go back exactly where it came out so mark them . Then on reinstall carefully set it on and watch roller stay in place and tighten in sequence slowly after hand oiling everything . Torque down to 8 foot pounds . I don't have the cam bolt sequence on this computer ,I'll try to send it later . This should be done anyway to check all rollers and lashs . Clean everything and prime lashs with new oil . I had to change all mine since it had thrown no 8 intake roller to the side . A lot of noise comes from bad rollers and lashs .
I'm replacing the timing set on my 2007 f150 5.4 3v engine and need to compress the valve springs.. does anyone know how to do this without having to buy the 50$ tool off amazon..?
Auto Zone may have this tool for use Free...just leave a deposit.
If you set it up at the timing point before you take chains off is best . But removing cams means no valves down to bend . No fooling with expensive clumsy tool and running the risk of dropping valve
Just set the cam lobes and timing point on crank gear at 6 oclock .Then start loosening cam bolts from the center out per book sequence a little at a time . all cam stuff has to go back exactly where it came out so mark them . Then on reinstall carefully set it on and watch roller stay in place and tighten in sequence slowly after hand oiling everything . Torque down to 8 foot pounds . I don't have the cam bolt sequence on this computer ,I'll try to send it later . This should be done anyway to check all rollers and lashs . Clean everything and prime lashs with new oil . I had to change all mine since it had thrown no 8 intake roller to the side . A lot of noise comes from bad rollers and lashs .
So after setting the crank dot to 60 oclock, do you loosen the cam caps to remove camshaft before removing the chain or after?
Once the cams are neutralized (as per his videos... I forget which combination of intake/exhaust valves on 1,4,5,8 cylinders, but would be apparent when looking at them), unbolt the caps and remove them. If the cams are neutralized there shouldn't be tension on the cap bolts. When I pulled mine, I actually rotated the engine so that I could remove all cam followers on all valves and cylinders before removing the cams. Unnecessary, yes, but I wanted the practice.
Its best to remove cams at timing point and reinstall at same
I am not a video maker . But sure remove chains before removing cams . Then using the correct sequence to not stress cam loosen all bolts a little at a time . If you are changing cam phasers I would use the toothed holding tool and remove them first just be gentle handling cam . Keep everything in order facing the same exact way they came out. I marked mine first . Doing it this way saves using that clumsy tool and you don't run the risk of knocking off a keeper then dropping valve .
It is very easy to reinstall cam as long as you eyeball it good and bolt it down in sequence .
This gives you full access to deal with all rollers and lashs . Eight pounds of torque is nothing hard to deal with or you can use 89 inch pounds if you have that wrench . All parts are worn in their location thats why you want to put them back the same . This doesn't apply to new rollers and lashs .
The cams on pass side and drivers side are different don't mix them up . Cams are installed with the crank dot at 6 oclock and cams facing per book on cyl 1 and 5 . Using aftermarket phasers are a no no ,you are wasting time and money plus it may cause damage .
I would advise all new rollers and lashs for around $265 . The new ones are redesigned . The new rollers oil port is more aimed ar roller wheel .
You will need the toothed tool to install new phasers , I don't like the vicegrip method . Clean the lash wells and head real good ,clean oil groove on bearing cap .
Cover exhaust manifold and hand oil all parts during assembly . You will get some smoking off manifold on start up so minimize it .
You will be surprized how simple this is if you have plenty of light and take your time .
Of course the phasers are installed using the two step torque per ford book . Make sure you align pin to cam
10-03-2018, 10:07 AM
Compressing valve Springs
